Man I wish I had ears enough to be able to make those kinds of distinctions. For me the stock EX-L stereo sounds great and it's hard to imagine it being able to sound better.
Good question...I'm sure more power would help the sub, but not thinking this is a power issue for the other channels. The door speakers are high sensitivity and stated to run fine from 5-55W RMS. They all individually sound loud enough, clear and well controlled and sufficiently powered at low to medium volumes. The amp isn't pushing itself and I don't have to turn up the volume to drive them. When I had only upgraded the fronts there was a massive improvement over stock. The rears added even more clarity to the rear fill, but too much highs at a strange angle.Sorry to hear that your upgrade didn't have the results you had hoped for, are you sure the factory amplifier can handle that upgrade. I think the RMS power needed for those 5 speakers you added is 370W total which leaves you only 170W on the factory amplifier for the other 5 speakers. Assuming that the 540W listed on the factory amplifier is RMS. Also assuming that much wattage is actually reaching the new speakers. I don't know what speakers are prioritized on the factory amplifier.
I have hearing loss, but maybe years of being an audiophile and building home and car stereos makes me picky.Man I wish I had ears enough to be able to make those kinds of distinctions. For me the stock EX-L stereo sounds great and it's hard to imagine it being able to sound better.
That's true but I carry a lot of gear both under the floor and over. I have the floor compartments crammed full of stuff.You don't necessarily have to drag that sub box around and sacrifice space in the main cargo area. There is plenty of room for a custom built box to hold a 12" sub under the floor. I thought about building one to transfer my dual 12's into but I am still recovering from the car accident that totaled my 2018 Accord EX-L . I may do it later when my back isn't killing me all the time.
Thanks for the update Storm, based on your experience, I've reconsidered my path forward. I'm going to move slowly and in stages.
First, I'm just going to replace the Front Door speakers only and may very well end up with the same Infinity's that you bought. But I am also considering the Infinity 621X (2.7 ohm) and the JBL GTO 620 (2.5 ohm) speakers, both of these are a bit more money, and slighly better specs, but I still need to determine if they will fit (depth-wise). I also found a 2 ohm Focal PC165x2, but at $349/pair, I may pass on it.
When I replace the Front Door Speakers, I will do the sound deadening in both of the front doors.
Then I'll disconnect the ANC.
And then listen to that system for a while to determine what to do next.
Cool thanks, hey Storm, I actually changed directions and detailed it in a new thread in the Stereo Forum, I'd be interested in your thoughts... Cheers..!Not a bad plan. After all is done, I have settled for now with factory sub, and an infinity 6532/22EX in all four doors. These are quite nice for the price. The older model 6522 can be had for about 115 bucks for all four plus mounting adapters on Amazon. Crutchfield costs more but they are great about finding all the mounting extras and install instructions for you.
My next step will be either to try a new sub in factory spot, or add an aftermarket.
I have noted the factory amp has strange gain settings and the rear door speakers are lower than they should be. Only way to fix would be a new amp, but I think if I get more sub bass I can live with it.
To me the perfect car stereo within reasonable effort and cost is clear mids and highs that are wrapped in good sub bass with a hint of midbass punch. All at low to moderate volumes.
Hi, I just bought a 2019 Honda Passport Touring and installed dual 12 kicker compr's with a kxa1200.1 mono-amplifier. I made a video on disabling the ANC module and it only takes about 10 minutes even for someone who is not used to this sort of thing. It will not harm any handsfree function in the vehicle and doesn't require messing with mics or installing expensive workarounds.
Moved Here:hi there! I would like to try it, how would I get to the secret menu? and can I? I have the Sport with a 5" screen.
Not sure about a diagram, have not seen one, but I would be shocked if Crutchfield or someone did not have this by now after 3 model years. You an add another amp easy enough by running remote, power, ground wires to the new amp location and speaker wires back to the speakers (or tap out to the factory speaker harness but not sure parts are made for that). The amp and sub for EXL may be different from my Touring (not sure really) but Touring has the amplifier placed over the passenger rear wheel hub behind the plastic trim panel.i recently purchased a 2021 Passport EXL and am exploring options to upgrade the lower end stock sound system. The local car audio shops don't know much about the passport system. i will not install on my own.
I would like to upgrade the front and rear speakers and add an amp. Can i do that without going to a 5 channel amp (to include the subwoofer) or can i use a 4 channel amp and just allow the stock amp to power the subwoofer? based on what i've read here, the stock subwoofer should be fine and i think it sounds ok.
is there a diagram for this system somewhere?
thanks in advance for the help.
hi, i was hoping you would respond and i appreciate that you did. i am a full novice regarding this subject. maybe i wasn't clear on what i was asking. i would like to install a new amplifier to drive all new speakers in the car. I've read your thoughts on replacing the subwoofer. i am asking if the amp to the subwoofer would need to be replaced or if i can continue using it in my scenario. thank you for the help.Not sure about a diagram, have not seen one, but I would be shocked if Crutchfield or someone did not have this by now after 3 model years. You an add another amp easy enough by running remote, power, ground wires to the new amp location and speaker wires back to the speakers (or tap out to the factory speaker harness but not sure parts are made for that). The amp and sub for EXL may be different from my Touring (not sure really) but Touring has the amplifier placed over the passenger rear wheel hub behind the plastic trim panel.
I would use a shop who is confident they can figure this out without trouble. Even without a diagram none of this is very complicated for experienced installers. I was able to use a meter to trace the sub wiring to the amp when I was tapping my extra sub into the stock speaker wires and made my own diagram of the sub wiring. I did not make any for other speakers and not sure the EXL is the same, so my drawing would not have been useful to you. All an installer needs to do is find the existing speaker, and do a continuity check with a meter back to the amp to make their own drawing. If a new amp and speaker wire is installed, you can ignore all the factory wiring except tapping into either line or high level for the new amplifier input signal.
You can add an amp to drive all your (new) speakers and leave the Sub and the Center channel connected to the OEM Amp, however on models other than the Elite & Touring, it may not sound real good as they have something like a 200w system vs the 540w system.
I use the upper amp (listed below) you can read on the site how it can tap into the high level speaker outputs and somehow de-equalize the signal and restore a full frequency range. The lower amp does it too but has much less power than the upper one - BUT still better than the sock Honda amps.
The Audison Prima AP8.9 bit car amplifier was designed by Audison R&D Department to achieve maximum sound quality in OEM Integration applications.www.audison.eu
I would NOT remove or mess with the Stock amp/sub-woofer, I left mine be and added another sub...
hope this helps...