[Ty Bloom]

Thank you much for your very informative post. I drained my ZF9 transmission on my 2017 Pilot and meticulously measured almost exactly how much drained out. It was 138 oz. or 17 and 1/4 cups (4 qts. 10 oz.) I then added the exact same amount back in. At first, I was a little confused, because the owners manual says 3.5 qts., But then I remembered that I do have a transmission cooler on my Pilot (Touring), because it is set up for towing with a tow hitch. Hopefully I shouldn't have any problems. Same out, same in. As long as the factory put in the correct amount.

 

[wrenchspinner]

Thank you much for your very informative post. I drained my ZF9 transmission on my 2017 Pilot and meticulously measured almost exactly how much drained out. It was 138 oz. or 17 and 1/4 cups (4 qts. 10 oz.) I then added the exact same amount back in. At first, I was a little confused, because the owners manual says 3.5 qts., But then I remembered that I do have a transmission cooler on my Pilot (Touring), because it is set up for towing with a tow hitch. Hopefully I shouldn't have any problems. Same out, same in. As long as the factory put in the correct amount.

How did you measure it out? What did you use

 

[dtnmich2]

Thank you for this.

After doing some research, because ZF Friedrichshafen AG manufactures the transmission, basically the same transmission is in multiple Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram vehicles. Since that is the case, then they should have used the same plugs across those transmissions. I discovered that the plug for those other makes and models is the same as the Honda Plug 06237-5J4-010 which costs around $25 each.

The good news is that the Mopar Plug 06513212AA is in fact the exact same as the Honda plug because it comes from the same manufacturer. I purchased one and they are identical M18-1.50-12 plugs that use the 8m hex head socket. Different labels but the exact same plug as I suspected. The Mopar plug is around $9 and you can order them or go to your local Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram parts dealer. So for basically the price of 1 Honda plug, you get 3 Mopar plugs for the ZF-9 transmission.

I just wanted to let everyone know.

 

[hondo]

2 plugs with shipping included about $28 from

2013-2025 Mopar Transmission Case Plug 06513212AA | MOPAR Parts On Sale

Buy Your Genuine MOPAR Transmission Case Plug Online And Save! Part Number Is 06513212AA. We Offer Wholesale Prices And Fast Shipping On Every Order.

www.moparpartsonsale.com

 

[Janizary]

2 plugs with shipping included about $28 from

2013-2025 Mopar Transmission Case Plug 06513212AA | MOPAR Parts On Sale

Buy Your Genuine MOPAR Transmission Case Plug Online And Save! Part Number Is 06513212AA. We Offer Wholesale Prices And Fast Shipping On Every Order.

www.moparpartsonsale.com

Excellent. Ordered a pair for my (at some point) transmission service.

 

[pnwPp]

Thank you for this.

After doing some research, because ZF Friedrichshafen AG manufactures the transmission, basically the same transmission is in multiple Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram vehicles. Since that is the case, then they should have used the same plugs across those transmissions. I discovered that the plug for those other makes and models is the same as the Honda Plug 06237-5J4-010 which costs around $25 each.

The good news is that the Mopar Plug 06513212AA is in fact the exact same as the Honda plug because it comes from the same manufacturer. I purchased one and they are identical M18-1.50-12 plugs that use the 8m hex head socket. Different labels but the exact same plug as I suspected. The Mopar plug is around $9 and you can order them or go to your local Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram parts dealer. So for basically the price of 1 Honda plug, you get 3 Mopar plugs for the ZF-9 transmission.

I just wanted to let everyone know.

in this case are the fluids the same as the Chrysler/ keep/ ect? Will it be cheaper to buy the fluids at a Chrysler dealer?

 

[PNWGarageDad]

@DudeCS always coming back to all of his DiYs . I did a drain and refill. I was feeling a very slight hang in shifting at 2k rpms before the change.

Shifts so much better now. I used pentosin 9 .

Edit: my shifting did improve, however, completely forgot ECON mode was ON, the shifting on ECON sucks! It's clear the transmission tune changes. Will never use econ mode again.

 

[knucklebusted]

I'm going to play the devil's advocate for a moment.

If you drain 3.5qts and replace with 3.5qts: You do not know for sure that the level is correct. It is probably sufficient but you don't know. IF the level was high or low, you continued the same. Proper technique would get the level verified. After that, I wouldn't hesitate to do the measured drain and fill.

For those that drain more than 3.5qts out: A transmission will function with an overfill to a point. Some extra fluid probably isn't harmful but if fluid is higher than the bottom of the rotating assembly, it can cause greater resistance and more heat in the transmission. Again, proper technique is advised to get the level correct.

For those replacing 2 or 3 plugs at each change: Unless the seals are torn up, why couldn't you reuse them? Inspect and replace as necessary.

For those that change the fluid multiple times in rapid succession: When transmission fluid is changed the first time, break-in material will have been shed into the fluid and will look dirty. That is normal. Transmission fluid isn't exposed to combustion gases and the resulting acids that contaminate engine oil. Removing 3.5qts is about half fluid and will refresh the additives in the system. If your transmission fluid is coming out just as dirty looking on subsequent changes, that isn't a good sign of longevity.

 

[DudeCS]

@knucklebusted... Per my previous post, I performed the transmission fluid replacement "by the book" which was rather convoluted. I also drained much more than the 3.5 qts because the knuckle-head that installed my transmission cooler overfilled without performing the proper level check. Fortunately, it caused no damage. The refill only required approximately 3.5 qts. So, the lesson is that it is better to be slightly overfilled than underfilled? My second transmission fluid change was simply a drain and fill. As for the plugs, the seal is silicone and it does deform. If attempting to save dollars, it is best to replace the drain plug vs having a leak later. A quart of the transmission fluid cost as much as the drain plug. You can get away with not replacing the fill plug or level check plug.

 

[knucklebusted]

@knucklebusted... Per my previous post, I performed the transmission fluid replacement "by the book" which was rather convoluted. I also drained much more than the 3.5 qts because the knuckle-head that installed my transmission cooler overfilled without performing the proper level check. Fortunately, it caused no damage. The refill only required approximately 3.5 qts. So, the lesson is that it is better to be slightly overfilled than underfilled? My second transmission fluid change was simply a drain and fill. As for the plugs, the seal is silicone and it does deform. If attempting to save dollars, it is best to replace the drain plug vs having a leak later. A quart of the transmission fluid cost as much as the drain plug. You can get away with not replacing the fill plug or level check plug.

Yes, in my experience, I'd rather have too much in a transmission than too little as long as too much isn't ridiculously too much. I'm surprised extra 2qts in yours wasn't a problem.

Too much can cause extra drag internally and possibly add heat but too little can allow the pickup to be uncovered, sucking air into the system. Clutches are more likely to burn with too little.

 

[Flume23P]

I decided to give an update on my 30,000 transmission service.

The Genuine Honda transmission fluid (oil) has a clear like appearance with a slight hint of green in it.

The oil that I drained from my transmission was absolutely filthy!

It was very dark in color, almost black in appearance.

After adding exactly 3.5 qts it started to weep out of the fill plug hole on the side of the transmission.

This morning I took the vehicle out for a short 5 mile drive to heat up the transmission fluid and conducted a subsequent transmission oil change.

It wasn't as black as the previous change was but you can CLEARLY see it was much darker in color.

I'm so glad I decided to do this 3 times as it does have a 7qt capacity as @Janizary stated above.

One more after this one and I'll be completely satisfied with this 30,000 mile transmission service being done.

Kenny Wise

I think being that the vehicle will only need this done a handful of times in its life with me, I will just pony up and have the stealership do it.

 

[cwatt79]

I wanted to add a suggested tool for this job, as a replacement for a standard tube funnel. This "filler" tool screws on to the quart bottle and has an on/off valve, allowing you to position the tip into the filler hole then open the valve. Very handy and mess-free, and it's under $5. I've used this many times now.
Amazon.com: FloTool 10106B/6 Spill Saver Trans Fluid and Gear Oil On-Off Filler Refill : Automotive

 

[davcra50]

Thanks for the tip

 

[Flume23P]

How often are you changing the ATF

 

[DudeCS]

How often are you changing the ATF

If you wait or follow the Maintenance Minder, I believe the code will first appear around 40K miles. Probably should replace the fluid by 60K miles?

 

[dtnmich2]

in this case are the fluids the same as the Chrysler/ keep/ ect? Will it be cheaper to buy the fluids at a Chrysler dealer?

They are basically the same fluid but each auto manufacturer may have different additive packages in it. But, the fluid isn't cheaper going Mopar.

 

[EmperorG8s]

Information for service/replacement of the Automatic Transmission Fluid. This service should be done in conjunction with the transfer case fluid change.

Summary: Factory instructions are attached below, but convoluted as others have said. After experiencing the factory procedures, a "spill and fill" is likely sufficient after adding the recommended 3.5 quarts of ATF. Check the fluid level after driving if you want verification, exercising the gears and warming up the transmission to the suggested temperature range (99F to 113F). I will add a separate response with regards to my first ATF change.

Supplies required:

• 4 quarts - Honda ATF-Type 3.1... 3.5 quarts required for fluid change (SHAKE WELL before use)
• 3 pieces - Honda P/N 06237-5J4-010... ATF screw plug for drain, level check, fill (see this post)

Tools:

• 8mm hex key (Allen) socket... BE SURE THE HEX KEY IS FULLY SEATED INTO THE HEAD OF THE SCREW PLUG
• 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (35 N-m for transmission plug/screw)
• 3/8" socket extensions (minimum length with 8mm hex key - 10" for level check, 13" for fill)
• floor jack & jack stands (as needed)
• funnel (18" long with 1/2" diameter tip)
• oil pan (5 quart capacity)
• infrared temperature gun or other method to monitor transmission temperature fluid (as needed)
• View attachment 14601 View attachment 14602

Screw Plug Locations, Clearance & Sequence:

1. Fill Plug: Loosen this first. Located on the top side with 8mm hex key. Remove the plastic engine cover to facilitate access. A minimum of 13" (8mm hex key & extensions) will clear the top of the engine.
   View attachment 14603
   
2. Level Check Plug: Loosen this second. Located on the driver's side (left side) with 8mm hex key. Remove the wheel to facilitate access. Approximately 10" (8mm hex key & extensions) will provide good access.
   View attachment 14604 View attachment 14605
3. Drain Plug: Loosen this last. Located on the bottom with 8mm hex key. Do not confuse this with the transfer case plugs which are located to the left of the transmission but requires a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar.
   View attachment 14606

Notes on Factory Procedure:

• If you wish to follow the full factory instructions, here is a summary of How to initiate VSA Maintenance Mode?
• I had to use the "fill" hole for refilling and it made the task faster. Originally, I had planned to refill via the "level check" hole, but my bottle pump is 1" (motor oil quart bottle) and the ATF bottles are 1.5".
• The fluid level check does not need to be exact. Being slightly high is better than being too low. I used slightly more than 3.5 quarts and the level was slightly above the bottom of level check hole. More info in this post.
• My vehicle has an ATF Cooler, but that does not affect the recommended refill capacity.
• After initiating VSA Maintenance Mode, exercising the transmission on a set of floor jacks or lift can be unsettling... wheels spinning in the air, noises from ABS and brakes, "BRAKE" warning because of obstacles in the garage. Alternative is to drive the vehicle on the streets after refill, then check the fluid level per instructions.
• Remember to torque all screw plugs to 35 N-m.

My revised and simplified procedure for the next ATF change:

1. Warm up the vehicle (optional)
2. Remove front left wheel with floor jack & jack stands
3. Loosen "fill plug"
4. Clean the area and loosen "level check plug"
5. Loosen "drain plug"
6. Remove "drain plug" and drain ATF fluid into oil pan
7. Install new "drain plug" and torque to 35 N-m
8. If doing a final level check later, reuse old "level check plug" and torque to 35 N-m ... OTHERWISE ... install new "level check plug" and torque to 35 N-m
9. Remove "fill plug", insert funnel and fill with 3.5 quarts of ATF
10. If doing a final level check later, reuse old "fill plug" and torque to 35 N-m ... OTHERWISE ... install new "fill plug" and torque to 35 N-m
11. Reinstall the front left wheel and torque lugs to 94 ft-lb / 127 N-m
12. Drive the vehicle to exercise the gears and bring the ATF up to temperature
13. If doing a final level check or adjustment, replace "level check plug" and "fill plug" with a new plug and torque to 35 N-m
14. Reset the transmission control module to re-learn (optional)

Please let me know if you need clarifications or corrections required. Thanks.

You mentioned the transfer case fluid should be changed in conjunction with the transmission fluid.

Is a 2 week gap between the 2 fine or are they supposed to literally be changed at the same time?

 

[knucklebusted]

You mentioned the transfer case fluid should be changed in conjunction with the transmission fluid.

Is a 2 week gap between the 2 fine or are they supposed to literally be changed at the same time?

They are separate and the transfer case fluid is not required to be changed at the same time although it is usually convenient if you have the vehicle jacked up or on a lift to do them both. I did all the underside fluids on my dad's Ridgeline last time because it was easier than getting it up on the lift 3 different times.

 

[Api]

I posted earlier in the thread a few years ago. Did another drain and fill today. I'm posting again with few things for others who may be checking this thread. Since the last fill 30,000 miles ago, it's been driven through mountains, rough terrain, snow, very hot desert, etc. No issues at all with the trans. or anything else on the Passport. Performed very well.

When draining the transmission today, it had been driven an hour or two before and was warm. It drained 3.5 qts. When I filled it and had the fill bolt out, it only allowed 3 quarts in. So there was more transmission fluid out than in. I think the difference is due to the temperature of the fluid. So I put the fill bolt in and added another .5 quart of fluid.

Another thing different this time is that I realized the bottom bolt's seal came off after I put it on. I think this will be fine. I've taken it out and driven it with no issues nor any leaks. I always watch for leaks - I've heard to many horror stories. In my years of changing fluids, I don't overtighten and it makes it so much easier to take off bolts and I've never had an issue with leaks. I do have a torque wrench and use that often.

I am trying to change every 30,000 miles and may start using the maintenance minder to tell me when to do the next one. I haven't seen anything about issues with the transmission after 5 years so I am confident in the maintenance minder. I reset it by the way when I was done.

Also, if you have questions about drain and fill vs flushing - watch this video from the Car Care Nut on YouTube. He knows his stuff and says the drain and fill is the best option staring at 9:30 in the video.

 

[DudeCS]

I posted earlier in the thread a few years ago. Did another drain and fill today. I'm posting again with few things for others who may be checking this thread. Since the last fill 30,000 miles ago, it's been driven through mountains, rough terrain, snow, very hot desert, etc. No issues at all with the trans. or anything else on the Passport. Performed very well.

When draining the transmission today, it had been driven an hour or two before and was warm. It drained 3.5 qts. When I filled it and had the fill bolt out, it only allowed 3 quarts in. So there was more transmission fluid out than in. I think the difference is due to the temperature of the fluid. So I put the fill bolt in and added another .5 quart of fluid.

Another thing different this time is that I realized the bottom bolt's seal came off after I put it on.

I am fully exercising the engine and transmission when driving mountain passes and the steep grades in the western states. With the recommended maintenance, it has performed well too. I do have a transmission cooler installed, primarily to extend life of the transmission and the fluid between changes.

With your initial transmission fill of 3 quarts, was that after you had warmed the transmission and exercising through all the gears? The factory procedures specify running the transmission through all the gears. So, the additional 1/2 quart may be a result of that?

With the bottom transmission bolt seal, do you mean that it may have been stuck to the transmission case or dislodged?