[DudeCS]

I usually buy a case and drain and fill 3 times and drive about 5 miles in between these changes.

FYI, that will be an expensive fluid change at 3.5 quarts per change, at approximately $30/qt for the fluid.

 

[Kenny Wiseguy]

I am a veteran and also get a discount for purchasing the oil per case at the Stealership.

 

[Janizary]

FYI, that will be an expensive fluid change at 3.5 quarts per change, at approximately $30/qt for the fluid.

Yeah, the price of this new fluid is just insane. They must have added more unobtanium to it.

 

[Kenny Wiseguy]

I know, I was shocked also! I was actually successful in negotiating the sale price down as a result.

 

[Janizary]

I'm kinda' irritated that Honda didn't list the total capacity in the manual, just the "Change" capacity. My other Honda manuals have both.

Looking around trying to find the total capacity is hit or miss. Haven't been able to find it yet. I've found other ZF9-48 applications with total capacity at over 6QTs, which is a number that sounds reasonable. There's going to be quite a bit of non-changed fluid in the system on a normal drain and fill.

Honda's liquid platinum ATF3.1 is some crazy-price fluid. Looked back at my last case of ATF-DW and it was $65 ($95 shipped) for 12qts. Tad more than a third of the price I paid per quart from Bernardi ($25.76/qt) before shipping!

 

[DudeCS]

Yeah, the price of this new fluid is just insane. They must have added more unobtanium to it.

Worst yet if the stealership is performing the service, they may add a premium to MSRP.

 

[DudeCS]

@Janizary ... Inspired me to find the ATF capacity. This is for the Honda Pilot and I believe correct for the Passport... up to 7.9 quarts.

 

[Janizary]

@Janizary ... Inspired me to find the ATF capacity. This is for the Honda Pilot and I believe correct for the Passport... up to 7.9 quarts.

Excellent!

 

[Kenny Wiseguy]

Yep, that's why I felt it was VERY important to conduct 3 oil changes to get ALL of it out but apparently that advice didn't go over too well.

All i know is that im not changing the way I do my transmission oil changes.

Doing it 3 times is the ONLY way you'll get ALL of the old fluid out of the entire system and yes IT IS A SYSTEM!

The torque converter easily holds 1qt.

 

[Kenny Wiseguy]

will DIY transmission fluid change void warranty?

I posed your same question to my local Honda Stealership (Bobby Rahal Honda) service department yesterday (12 Oct 2022).

While there I also inquired about the ability for them to upload my fluid changes into their databases for record keeping purposes and they flat out said... "No, we cannot update services performed outside of our dealership."

This same service manager did HIGHLY recommend keeping all of the receipts and a detailed record of all services for the vehicle which I normally do anyways.

But to answer your principal question no, it will not void your warranty.

One can DIY and still be covered for any warranty related issues but you have to be able to show proof of what services you have completed or its "on you".

I hope this helped answer your question.

 

[Kenny Wiseguy]

I decided to give an update on my 30,000 transmission service.

The Genuine Honda transmission fluid (oil) has a clear like appearance with a slight hint of green in it.

The oil that I drained from my transmission was absolutely filthy!

It was very dark in color, almost black in appearance.

After adding exactly 3.5 qts it started to weep out of the fill plug hole on the side of the transmission.

This morning I took the vehicle out for a short 5 mile drive to heat up the transmission fluid and conducted a subsequent transmission oil change.

It wasn't as black as the previous change was but you can CLEARLY see it was much darker in color.

I'm so glad I decided to do this 3 times as it does have a 7qt capacity as @Janizary stated above.

One more after this one and I'll be completely satisfied with this 30,000 mile transmission service being done.

Kenny Wise

 

[Kenny Wiseguy]

So after driving another 5 miles or so I felt it necessary to get this service out of my hair and did my final (3rd) transmission fluid change.

It wasn't crystal clear fluid but it wasn't black like the first or second, just a light tint to the fluid.

I added the 3.5qts to the transmission and finished up the 30,000 mile service.

Since this is my Wife's car she's happy....

 

[Janizary]

So after driving another 5 miles or so I felt it necessary to get this service out of my hair and did my final (3rd) transmission fluid change.

My wife used to be able to tell when I was doing the 3/3/3 on my old Ridgeline. Did each change on 3 successive weekends and was grouchy, heh. I think the neighbors always wondered what was up with my driving around the neighborhood in reverse

 

[Kenny Wiseguy]

Haaaa yeah I bet, mine was just happy to hit up some fall festivals, glad I didn't cut into her shopping time!

 

[esto70]

I’m not opposed to a DIY job, but…being super busy with work/life right now I called to see what it would cost at the dealership. They quoted me ~$450 for the transmission fluid change? This seems ridiculously expensive to me. That puts my B136 service in the $600-$700 range. Thoughts? Opinions?

 

[Hunter]

Information for service/replacement of the Automatic Transmission Fluid. This service should be done in conjunction with the transfer case fluid change.

Summary: Factory instructions are attached below, but convoluted as others have said. After experiencing the factory procedures, a "spill and fill" is likely sufficient after adding the recommended 3.5 quarts of ATF. Check the fluid level after driving if you want verification, exercising the gears and warming up the transmission to the suggested temperature range (99F to 113F). I will add a separate response with regards to my first ATF change.

Supplies required:

• 4 quarts - Honda ATF-Type 3.1... 3.5 quarts required for fluid change (SHAKE WELL before use)
• 3 pieces - Honda P/N 06237-5J4-010... ATF screw plug for drain, level check, fill (see this post)

Tools:

• 8mm hex key (Allen) socket... BE SURE THE HEX KEY IS FULLY SEATED INTO THE HEAD OF THE SCREW PLUG
• 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (35 N-m for transmission plug/screw)
• 3/8" socket extensions (minimum length with 8mm hex key - 10" for level check, 13" for fill)
• floor jack & jack stands (as needed)
• funnel (18" long with 1/2" diameter tip)
• oil pan (5 quart capacity)
• infrared temperature gun or other method to monitor transmission temperature fluid (as needed)
• View attachment 14601 View attachment 14602

Screw Plug Locations, Clearance & Sequence:

1. Fill Plug: Loosen this first. Located on the top side with 8mm hex key. Remove the plastic engine cover to facilitate access. A minimum of 13" (8mm hex key & extensions) will clear the top of the engine.
   View attachment 14603
   
2. Level Check Plug: Loosen this second. Located on the driver's side (left side) with 8mm hex key. Remove the wheel to facilitate access. Approximately 10" (8mm hex key & extensions) will provide good access.
   View attachment 14604 View attachment 14605
3. Drain Plug: Loosen this last. Located on the bottom with 8mm hex key. Do not confuse this with the transfer case plugs which are located to the left of the transmission but requires a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar.
   View attachment 14606

Notes on Factory Procedure:

• If you wish to follow the full factory instructions, here is a summary of How to initiate VSA Maintenance Mode?
• I had to use the "fill" hole for refilling and it made the task faster. Originally, I had planned to refill via the "level check" hole, but my bottle pump is 1" (motor oil quart bottle) and the ATF bottles are 1.5".
• The fluid level check does not need to be exact. Being slightly high is better than being too low. I used slightly more than 3.5 quarts and the level was slightly above the bottom of level check hole. More info in this post.
• My vehicle has an ATF Cooler, but that does not affect the recommended refill capacity.
• After initiating VSA Maintenance Mode, exercising the transmission on a set of floor jacks or lift can be unsettling... wheels spinning in the air, noises from ABS and brakes, "BRAKE" warning because of obstacles in the garage. Alternative is to drive the vehicle on the streets after refill, then check the fluid level per instructions.
• Remember to torque all screw plugs to 35 N-m.

My revised and simplified procedure for the next ATF change:

1. Warm up the vehicle (optional)
2. Remove front left wheel with floor jack & jack stands
3. Loosen "fill plug"
4. Clean the area and loosen "level check plug"
5. Loosen "drain plug"
6. Remove "drain plug" and drain ATF fluid into oil pan
7. Install new "drain plug" and torque to 35 N-m
8. If doing a final level check later, reuse old "level check plug" and torque to 35 N-m ... OTHERWISE ... install new "level check plug" and torque to 35 N-m
9. Remove "fill plug", insert funnel and fill with 3.5 quarts of ATF
10. If doing a final level check later, reuse old "fill plug" and torque to 35 N-m ... OTHERWISE ... install new "fill plug" and torque to 35 N-m
11. Reinstall the front left wheel and torque lugs to 94 ft-lb / 127 N-m
12. Drive the vehicle to exercise the gears and bring the ATF up to temperature
13. If doing a final level check or adjustment, replace "level check plug" and "fill plug" with a new plug and torque to 35 N-m
14. Reset the transmission control module to re-learn (optional)

Please let me know if you need clarifications or corrections required. Thanks.

Hello:
I appreciate the information you post regarding the Passport. I have a 2021 Passport EXL (the first Passport I have owned - formerly had a 2018 CRV) and I am not finding much DIY information on-line regarding fluid changes and so forth. So far yours seem to be the most thorough and precise. I did a lot of the maintenance service on the CRV myself and the Passport is coming due for some of the service. I have read conflicting info on the Passport as far as the transmission fluid change such the process, the type of fluid to use, torque recommendations, resetting systems and so forth. Are you aware of a definitive and legitimate source for how tos for a 2021 Passport EXL? Thank you.

 

[DudeCS]

@Hunter , 2021 Passport has the same ZF9 transmission. The procedure should be the same. If an AWD model, the transfer case should also be the same. You can pay and subscribe for factory service information here... Service Express (honda.com)

 

[rwr]

Information for service/replacement of the Automatic Transmission Fluid. This service should be done in conjunction with the transfer case fluid change.

Summary: Factory instructions are attached below, but convoluted as others have said. After experiencing the factory procedures, a "spill and fill" is likely sufficient after adding the recommended 3.5 quarts of ATF. Check the fluid level after driving if you want verification, exercising the gears and warming up the transmission to the suggested temperature range (99F to 113F). I will add a separate response with regards to my first ATF change.

Supplies required:

• 4 quarts - Honda ATF-Type 3.1... 3.5 quarts required for fluid change (SHAKE WELL before use)
• 3 pieces - Honda P/N 06237-5J4-010... ATF screw plug for drain, level check, fill (see this post)

Tools:

• 8mm hex key (Allen) socket... BE SURE THE HEX KEY IS FULLY SEATED INTO THE HEAD OF THE SCREW PLUG
• 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (35 N-m for transmission plug/screw)
• 3/8" socket extensions (minimum length with 8mm hex key - 10" for level check, 13" for fill)
• floor jack & jack stands (as needed)
• funnel (18" long with 1/2" diameter tip)
• oil pan (5 quart capacity)
• infrared temperature gun or other method to monitor transmission temperature fluid (as needed)
• View attachment 14601 View attachment 14602

Screw Plug Locations, Clearance & Sequence:

1. Fill Plug: Loosen this first. Located on the top side with 8mm hex key. Remove the plastic engine cover to facilitate access. A minimum of 13" (8mm hex key & extensions) will clear the top of the engine.
   View attachment 14603
   
2. Level Check Plug: Loosen this second. Located on the driver's side (left side) with 8mm hex key. Remove the wheel to facilitate access. Approximately 10" (8mm hex key & extensions) will provide good access.
   View attachment 14604 View attachment 14605
3. Drain Plug: Loosen this last. Located on the bottom with 8mm hex key. Do not confuse this with the transfer case plugs which are located to the left of the transmission but requires a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar.
   View attachment 14606

Notes on Factory Procedure:

• If you wish to follow the full factory instructions, here is a summary of How to initiate VSA Maintenance Mode?
• I had to use the "fill" hole for refilling and it made the task faster. Originally, I had planned to refill via the "level check" hole, but my bottle pump is 1" (motor oil quart bottle) and the ATF bottles are 1.5".
• The fluid level check does not need to be exact. Being slightly high is better than being too low. I used slightly more than 3.5 quarts and the level was slightly above the bottom of level check hole. More info in this post.
• My vehicle has an ATF Cooler, but that does not affect the recommended refill capacity.
• After initiating VSA Maintenance Mode, exercising the transmission on a set of floor jacks or lift can be unsettling... wheels spinning in the air, noises from ABS and brakes, "BRAKE" warning because of obstacles in the garage. Alternative is to drive the vehicle on the streets after refill, then check the fluid level per instructions.
• Remember to torque all screw plugs to 35 N-m.

My revised and simplified procedure for the next ATF change:

1. Warm up the vehicle (optional)
2. Remove front left wheel with floor jack & jack stands
3. Loosen "fill plug"
4. Clean the area and loosen "level check plug"
5. Loosen "drain plug"
6. Remove "drain plug" and drain ATF fluid into oil pan
7. Install new "drain plug" and torque to 35 N-m
8. If doing a final level check later, reuse old "level check plug" and torque to 35 N-m ... OTHERWISE ... install new "level check plug" and torque to 35 N-m
9. Remove "fill plug", insert funnel and fill with 3.5 quarts of ATF
10. If doing a final level check later, reuse old "fill plug" and torque to 35 N-m ... OTHERWISE ... install new "fill plug" and torque to 35 N-m
11. Reinstall the front left wheel and torque lugs to 94 ft-lb / 127 N-m
12. Drive the vehicle to exercise the gears and bring the ATF up to temperature
13. If doing a final level check or adjustment, replace "level check plug" and "fill plug" with a new plug and torque to 35 N-m
14. Reset the transmission control module to re-learn (optional)

Please let me know if you need clarifications or corrections required. Thanks.

Thanks for your thorough instructions.

 

[carpayments4life]

I changed my ATF using a simple drain and fill.

Then I hauled a 4x8 trailer nine hours, through the mountains. No issues.

I drained the ATF out.
I added 3.5 qts + 100ml ATF.
I torqued the plugs to 32 ft/lbs.

I watched some Jeep videos, where steep incline (Zf9 transmission) usage required 100 ml more ATF.

It's been 9,000 miles since the gravity drain & fill, with zero issues.

 

[ballisticexchris]

There is no reason whatsoever to follow the "by the book procedure" when doing a simple ATF drain and fill. On all these modern vehicles without a dipstick you simply weigh the fluid that comes out and refill with the same weight of fluid going in. This takes out the volume variable from the expansion/contraction of fluid.

If you are adding a ATF cooler or dropping the pan to replace filter, the follow the service manual exactly. Most important is getting it into VSA maintenance mode, shift button sport mode, do not shift past 4th gear, and keep the trans temps between 99 and 113.

Hondas HDS tool and software subscription can get pricy so I recommend something like a XTool D8 or other that has free software updates and subscriptions.