Interesting! Did you verify they installed all 3 shims? If so then the added extra weight sure does make a difference!!
Hopefully someone makes upgraded springs sometime soon!

 

I just confirmed all 3 shims are in both sides, but check this out, I went and did some driving over a bumpy road, and took measurements again, and the gap has already closed to 34.5 Front, 34.2 rear, after one drive, so... perhaps these will settle more than I thought. I’ve updated the post with that info below.

 

So, finally, the 1.5 traxda rear lift (three .25 spacers) did not raise the rear 1.5 inches?
I’m a bit confused. If I was to order traxda’s kit, and would like a 1.5 overall lift (front and back), which kit should I order?

In the other hand, do you think a 2” lift would be better, based on your experience?

thanks

 

Excellent feedback!

 

Update:
There was a clanging sound coming from the rear whenever I hit speed bumps. I "think" I've determined it's the muffler hitting the No-lo rear diff skid plate, as they sit tightly on top of one another but I can easily wiggle it with my hand and make it bang. I'm guessing the lift changed the position between the two enough that it now rubs.

I used wire and a rubber washer between them, then drove over some speed bumps and didn't hear it, so fingers crossed that took care of it. My only concern is if the rubber gets too hot and burns off.
Any other suggestions for what I could use as a buffer that's super heat resistant?

 

Hmm, possibly reach out to JonDZ on Instagram For his thoughts? He’s done every step leading up to his 4” lift.

 

Realm, check your PM’s.

 

Ok, a possible fix for us Passport folks is adding an additional washer to the backside of the plate to push it rearward a hair as the Passport and Ridgeline have different exhausts.

 

Do your front tires rub at full lock , forward or reverse ?

 

Negative, zero rub at full lock, as I’ve done several u-turns, and turned into a few dips. Mine are 255s tho, as all the rubbing I’ve seen to date posted have been 265s. I wanted 265 for the broader tire selection, but couldn’t bring myself to have the tires that close to the wheel wells, as wanted functionality over selection.

 

Thanks for taking us along for the ride!

I haven't noticed any noise from the No-Lo diff plate on muffler. I'll check mine next time I change wheels.

 

Thanks for taking us along for the ride!

I haven't noticed any noise from the No-Lo diff plate on muffler. I'll check mine next time I change wheels.

Mine is close, probably only 1/4'' of clearance from the exhaust pipe. Doesn't show any sign of rubbing.

 

Update... I’m feeling a noticeable unstable sway on the interstate at 70mph, which makes me feel like my steering is going to lose it and floating. I can’t tell if it’s the lift or the Nitto tires. Around town it drives great. Checked my sway bar and they’re still attached. Feels worse in the rain, but again, only at high speeds, so not sure what’s going on.

I’m going to check my air pressure tomorrow and give it another test drive on the interstate, as have a road trip coming up soon.

 

Update #2… I think I have success… My tire pressure gauge was broken and tires were overinflated beyond the 50psi max. Aired down and driving really well now, at least on dry pavement, even on interstate. No more swaying in first test. Will see how they do in rain when it comes.

 

Oh, glad that fixed it!

 

Wow over 50 psi! I like my ride firm... but I only fill to 37 or 38 psi. That'll raise to 40-42 psi while driving.

Don't you have tpms sensors? Steering wheel button Home > Maintenance > Tire pressure.

 

@thegr8wendt Confirmed on TPMS sensors, but I didn't even think to check them. I was using an old manual gauge, and dropped several pounds, got a new gauge and checked it against the HUD. Sure enough the new gauge and HUD read much higher than the old gauge, like 14psi difference, so it's going in the trash.

 

Good stuff REALM. I got my passport back this weekend after getting the jsport lift installed and note similar measurements as you despite my tires being 245/60/18 Continental Terrain Contacts. I also noticed a shake in my steering wheel afterwards that I don’t think was there prior to the lift and alignment. I had the tires rebalanced and rotated, which helped, but I feel like it’s not totally gone. Have you experienced any steering wheel shake around 60 after the lift install?

edit: I am running the conti A/Ts on Ridgeline wheels like you.

 

@TrentCofax ... thankfully I didn’t have any steering wheel shimmy after the lift. The only swaying I had was the whole car felt like it was floating on water rocking, but the tire pressure fixed that. Otherwise my steering is tight and straight. The most noticeable difference is just the harder suspension you feel hitting bumps and stuff, but it’s not bad, just a little more noticeable than stock. The family still hasn’t noticed the difference other than the tire noise if the radio is off.

I’m no expert, but I’ve had lifted vehicles with steering wheel shakes before so I can empathize.
So you’ve had an alignment, the tires balanced, and rotated, but still felt it some.

Again, I’m no expert, but throwing ideas out there, maybe you have a tire out of round or something, and when you rotated them it moved to the back and giving you less wheel shimmy.
Highly doubt it’s the tire pressure, but if you haven’t already, double check to make sure the tires are all correct, and that you don’t have one tire just way out of psi whack.
If you had the alignment done at the lift shop, maybe take it to another alignment place to double check, as wonder if the camber or something needs further adjusting.

Otherwise I’m out of ideas, but again, I’m no expert. I used to have a Jeep Cherokee and felt the infamous “death wobble” a few times, which is the stuff of nightmares, and then had a lifted Tacoma that just had constant wheel shimmy all the time I never could figure out how to fix, but in truth I had a cheap body lift on there back in the day before I knew better, and think they just hacked that thing up to make it work.

 

Definitely appreciate it @REALM. I agree with your thoughts on the impacts of rotating the offending tires to the rear which might only mask a continuing problem. I am also going down the rabbit hole of evaluating and potentially resurfacing the mating surface of my Ridgeline wheels since I got them powder coated and checking the surfaces of my rotors since I’m mental.

 

Realm, interesting! In looking up rear chassis parts the Ridgeline and Passport do have different part numbers for the upper and lower arms but!,,,, the subframe where they attach are identical part numbers!
That kinda defeats the “different mounting points therefore different ratio” thought.
I did see a Honda video a while ago where they showed the different (upgraded) parts on the Ridgeline vs Pilot for strength/durability for better off road use.
only way to be totally positive is if someone purchases upper and lower arms for a Ridgeline and Passport and measures the actual distance between mounting holes vs just the look of the part.
Another thing notable is the trac arms between the two vehicles is the same also.
And yes, I watched the Traxda video on the rear ratio difference vs other vehicles. If the Passport/Pilot had a different pivot ratio than the Ridgeline there is no way the subframe would be the same part. You’d need the lower mounting points to be further out.
Thoughts??

 

FYI I updated my original post with what I would consider final settled measurements after a few months:
34.25" front | 34" rear

 

Update I have a 2" rear only kit on order from Traxda, which they said is a physical 1.25" thick, so that's about what lift I expect to get out of it. Ridgeline would get the full 2" I believe.

They also confirmed I could stack one of the .25" plates I have now on top of the 1.25" spacer, as then I would get a total of 1.5" physical spacer.
Right now I sit at 34.25 front, 34 rear unloaded.
I'm leaning toward replacing the 3x.25" spacers I have now with the single 1.25" spacer, which would put me at about 3.25" front, 34.5" rear unloaded.
If I did the .25" spacer + 1.25" spacer, I'm more likely sitting around 34.2" front, 34.75" rear unloaded.

 

Realm, I’m still at a loss as to the difference between Ridgeline and Passport difference in the rear.
as I posted above, the mounts are the same part number. Therefore the pivot points are exactly the same.
The passport rear track is 66.7”
The Ridgeline rear track is 66.8”
How, pray tell, are passports not getting the exact same lift? Doesn’t seem mathematically possible?

Wanting a mild lift myself but waiting to see the Trailsport edition to see about just swapping suspension parts from that model if it gives at least .5-1” better clearance.

 

It's a great question that I don't have a reliable answer for, other than my results, and confirmation from JonDZ, who told me what they're finding is the Passport has more of a 1:1.1 ratio, than the Ridgeline 1:2 when it comes to lift results.

My best guess is the Ridgeline has something different in the rear suspension, to compensate for heavier payloads, which would make sense. I wish I knew myself.

I moved to larger tires, and put in their 1.5" lift in front and back (not the current kit of 1.5" front and .5" rear), I did the 1.5" kit in the back as well which is .75" of spacers), and still only got .75" of lift.

Will post results when I get the new lift in, as that will also be telling to see what happens this round.