Thanks for taking the time to post.
I only have 2,000 miles on it, so I'll have to wait a bit.

Cheers.

 

Yup, that's how I do it, except I use a 3/8 stubby ratchet.
It's not hard, but it will give a big mess if you don't use a zip lock bag : )

 

You can put a catch pan under it, punch a hole in the bottom of it with a steel punch and a hammer, let it drain out, then spin it off with a rag.

That way you don't have to waste a bag and clean it out to properly recycle the oil.

Either way.

 

Thanks for posting this. My first oil change is tomorrow. I must have read EVERY post on this forum on oil changes etc. I have the Honda Oil filter tool, Honda Oil filters, new washer for oil drain plug, torque wrench. Getting my oil and drain pan tomorrow. We'll see if I can squeeze underneath the car versus using my jack stands. Decided with this vehicle to do the changes myself versus my local shop that I have been using for years. Wish me luck!

 

I had a Ridgeline and was able to change the oil without raising the car. PP should be easier as it's higher. Simply turn the wheel to the right for access to the filter. It does get messy. I tried the bag thing and it didn't work for me. A word of caution though. Put a rag or plastic on the subframe as the spilling oil can work its way into the subframe and leak out for months from a push pin (ask me how I know). I noticed on the PP there is also a diaper on that section of subframe as well. It's not the best design to access but nothing difficult compared to the Honda 4 bangers of the 90's with the oil filter facing the firewall where you basically had to go under the car and do it blind.

 

14v6 - I'l try your suggestion next time on turning the wheel to access the filter. I tried the bag idea and ended up with oil spilling. I think I was just in a bad position for accessing the filter. Tried to do the whole change without jacking up the car...ended up having to raise the car since my torque wrench is super long and I could not use it to torque the oil drain plug. Note to self - just raise the car and be done with it.

Needed a LONG funnel to pour the oil in. I was about to try to pour the oil in from the five quart container into my short funnel, but decided against it. Had to run to the auto store and get one. When I did the resetting of the oil reminder, I did it in two steps. First I reset the "A" item and then I reset the "1" item. The oil life went from 20% to 100% and now I have "B" on my dash. No need to rotate tires since I just installed my snow tires in December. It wasn't a bad first time. Not like when I changed my oil in my Acura Integra (1986) and the dang oil filter was in the center of the engine and about 12" up from the bottom of the car. Everytime, you were going to get your whole arm spilled with oil when you removed the oil filter. Poured in Mobil 1 Extended Protection oil, and used an OEM washer and OEM filter. I guess next up is the rear differential oil change. Mileage is 7950. Next oil change will go better. Thank you to everyone on the forum for you postings and videos.

 

Rather than dealing with a Ziploc bag, I use one of these to reroute the oil away from the frame and into the oil receptacle. Works great!

Oil Deflector

Check out the deal on Oil Deflector at College Hills Honda

www.collegehillshonda.com

 

NipperDog - I'll see about getting one of those on my next trip westward - CollegeHills Honda is sort of on the way....But here is another thought - MAYBE the Auto Engineers should have thought about all of this when they designed the Passport. Having to use a diverter since you placed the filter in the wrong spot is poor engineering. I worked for a company that had a poorly design engine casting and the cylinders would overheat. Their solution was to shoot oil underneath the cylinders to keep them cool. Part of the design process is to incorporate ease of maintenance in the design. The Machinery Handbook gives you the dimension for wrenches, etc so you can have enough space for a wrench to get to the bolt. Guess they don't teach this in schools these days...to me, it is just poor engineering....

 

I will agree with your statement but also add: they design it just difficult enough to want to discourage you from wanting to do it yourself and bring it in to have their service department charge you for the task.

 

Gray_Beard - I can understand that point of view and have often wondered about that myself. Take simple tasks on a car and make them so difficult that you have to go to the dealer to have the tasks completed. I changed the spark plugs on my Acura one time and had to rip half the engine apart to get to the plugs in the back. I then understood why the dealer wanted so much money to do the work.... Still, as an engineer in profession, it still upsets me when I come across equipment that has been poorly designed. Keeps me employed though by redesigning someone's mistakes.