[Tadakatsu]

If you want a set of plane, smooth rotors these are the best two sets I have found in terms of performance.

https://www.buybrakes.com/2021-honda-passport/brake-rotor-and-pad-kits/ebc-stage-13-smooth-rotors-and-yellow-pad-brake-kit

https://www.buybrakes.com/2021-honda-passport/brake-rotor-and-pad-kits/ebc-stage-14-smooth-truck-suv-and-green-6000-brake-kit

 

[RedStripe08]

If you want a set of plane, smooth rotors these are the best two sets I have found in terms of performance.

https://www.buybrakes.com/2021-honda-passport/brake-rotor-and-pad-kits/ebc-stage-13-smooth-rotors-and-yellow-pad-brake-kit

https://www.buybrakes.com/2021-honda-passport/brake-rotor-and-pad-kits/ebc-stage-14-smooth-truck-suv-and-green-6000-brake-kit

How do you define "performance?" The ability for the brakes to bring the car to a complete stop faster than "consumer grade" rotors in an emergency situation, or something else? I don't go super fast in my car or race (I rarely go above the speed limit on the highway, which is 55-65 in my area), so I wonder if I'd notice any difference between low-mid tier and top tier rotors 🤔

 

[Chef Duane]

There are various sites that do 'brake performance' vids. Just search a bit.

But if you are doing the brake job yourself and buying the parts from someone like Rock Auto or Buybrakes get the premium set and you'll still be way under the cost of the dealer or probably an independent shop. Of course you have to take into account the cost of tools but with tools after the brake job you'll still have them to do other things. If you really want skimp do it yourself, borrow your buddy's tools, and get a cheapo set of pads. You could probably do pads on all four wheels for $100 or so.

 

[RedStripe08]

What are everyone's thoughts on the quality of struts between OEM vs. FCS brand? Link for the left one, part #1334404L from FCS (the right side is the same part # with an R at the end rather than an L).

I got estimates from a couple shops—one of which, I've used many times over the years and trust them; the other shop is highly recommended among people in my area, but I've never personally had them work on my cars before.

The shop I know said they were having trouble sourcing struts for this car and would have to use OEM, which would be >$1000 per strut just for the part, so ~$3000 total after labor and tax. On the other hand, the shop I haven't used before quoted me ~$1325 total for the whole job ($670 parts, $490 labor, $47 tax, $120 alignment).

So, are these FCS struts likely to cause problems down the line, or are they high quality and good bang for the buck?

 

[23Elite]

I'll offer my opinion. If I was only going to keep my vehicle for a few more years and trade it in, I would install those cheap struts (they're cheap for a reason). If I'm keeping my vehicle for many years to come, I'd pony up for the OEM struts. Very expensive I know, but........

 

[RedStripe08]

I'll offer my opinion. If I was only going to keep my vehicle for a few more years and trade it in, I would install those cheap struts (they're cheap for a reason). If I'm keeping my vehicle for many years to come, I'd pony up for the OEM struts. Very expensive I know, but........

That was my gut feeling as well, and I do plan to drive this car for many more years. I called the less expensive shop back today and asked a) if they can update the estimate using only OEM parts (they will, and said they'd have it back to me tomorrow); and/or b) if they'd be willing to install OEM parts that I bring to them if I were to order the parts myself.

They said they're willing to install OEM parts that I bring, but the labor wouldn't have a warranty. So, I'll weigh the pros and cons when I hear back from them tomorrow and know the costs for all 3 options (aftermarket vs. OEM vs. self-sourced OEM).

 

[23Elite]

That was my gut feeling as well, and I do plan to drive this car for many more years. I called the less expensive shop back today and asked a) if they can update the estimate using only OEM parts (they will, and said they'd have it back to me tomorrow); and/or b) if they'd be willing to install OEM parts that I bring to them if I were to order the parts myself.

They said they're willing to install OEM parts that I bring, but the labor wouldn't have a warranty. So, I'll weigh the pros and cons when I hear back from them tomorrow and know the costs for all 3 options (aftermarket vs. OEM vs. self-sourced OEM).

I think you'll be happy with the results. I do wish the aftermarket would offer some quality replacements though. KYB, Bilstein, etc.

 

[Coug77]

Another tip regarding OEM parts - get them online from a discount dealership if you can. These sites are usually Honda dealerships that sell on-line out of their parts department. Parts through them are typically 20-35% off, but you will save more than that. If Honda lists a part for $100, it might sell online for $65. But if you buy that same part from a dealer, most mark it up 15-20% so you could actually pay closer to $120, almost twice as much. The big downside with buying on-line is shipping costs. For some reason all the sites really hit you on shipping, especially for heavy or large parts, potentially negating any savings, so do your homework. Something like rotors could be over $100 for shipping. One on-line site I've used for years is AllDiscountParts.com out of Colorado (Boulder, I think). I've also used Showcase Honda in Phoenix who has a presence on eBay, and if you can't find the part you want, message them. Their parts might be a bit higher than All Discount, but they include shipping.

Good luck!

 

[rit14623]

Another tip regarding OEM parts - get them online from a discount dealership if you can. These sites are usually Honda dealerships that sell on-line out of their parts department. Parts through them are typically 20-35% off, but you will save more than that. If Honda lists a part for $100, it might sell online for $65. But if you buy that same part from a dealer, most mark it up 15-20% so you could actually pay closer to $120, almost twice as much. The big downside with buying on-line is shipping costs. For some reason all the sites really hit you on shipping, especially for heavy or large parts, potentially negating any savings, so do your homework. Something like rotors could be over $100 for shipping. One on-line site I've used for years is AllDiscountParts.com out of Colorado (Boulder, I think). I've also used Showcase Honda in Phoenix who has a presence on eBay, and if you can't find the part you want, message them. Their parts might be a bit higher than All Discount, but they include shipping.

Good luck!

I bought running boards/side steps from Home Page | OEM Parts To You who are in Massachusetts. Prices look almost the same as dealer parts dept. unless its on sale.

 

[fx_chip]

@Coug77 I can attest to the fact that buying directly from Honda or a brick and mortar Honda dealership is always more expensive than buying from an online parts seller. I've been ordering parts and accessories on Honda Dreamshop which is directly operated by Honda but I'm done with the high prices there.

All the OEM parts sellers around my primary residence in Texas only run half-hearted online parts shops that ask you to send a list of required part numbers to their parts department and hand over your payment details on the phone upon paying high prices.
To get a good online experience one has to use sites like College Hills, Bernardi, Honda Parts Now etc. and pay steep shipping charges due to the distance.

Do you or anyone else know of a Texas based OEM parts seller with a searchable online catalog, quick shipping and a fully online ordering process?

 

[RedStripe08]

I think you'll be happy with the results. I do wish the aftermarket would offer some quality replacements though. KYB, Bilstein, etc.

It took some back and forth but I heard back from the shop yesterday with a quote with OEM parts. If they replace all components (including mounts, boots, hardware, etc.), the cost after tax will be what the dealership wanted to charge before tax (~$2500). Today I spoke to the owner on the phone, and he said the actual cost will probably be a lot lower since they likely won't need to replace all the hardware and components if just the struts are bad.

As for the labor warranty, the more I think about it, the less valuable that is for me. I live in the northeast during the warmer months, but I'll be back on the road for the winter by December at the very latest, and if something goes wrong with the new struts at that time, the shop's 1-year labor warranty wouldn't cover me if I'm out of town.

So, all of that said, I'm looking more seriously at ordering OEM parts myself and having the shop install them (potentially saving ~$250 compared to paying their markup for the same parts). Regardless, I'm bringing the car to that shop in a couple weeks to have them look at it and see exactly what parts they suggest replacing, then go from there.

I'm sure this will all be worth it when all is said and done! 💪

 

[Flume23P]

Did you get this done yet? I am doing my rotors and pads soon and can take a video to help.

 

[RedStripe08]

Did you get this done yet? I am doing my rotors and pads soon and can take a video to help.

I haven't done the brakes/rotors yet, as they're not sticking enough to be noticeable when driving, but I'm planning to do them before I hit the road for the winter, so a video would be super helpful!