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Good to know...did yours just slide in fairly easily?
I loosened all the bolts on one rail so that there was just a little more clearance to slide the cross bars in. They slid in very easily, I then tightened everything back up to spec. There are two socket bolts on each end and one bolt in the middle under a square plug.
 

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I extended my positive 12v battery terminal, so that a jumper cable clamp/handle can have a place to grab, if I ever need a jump start.
My jumper cable would not clamp, on to the 12v positive post, because of the battery's location.

I used a extra small standard screwdriver (1/8" tip) and slid it in to my extra tiny console light's slot and turned it, to widen the slit. Now more light hits the console.
 

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I extended my positive 12v battery terminal, so that a jumper cable clamp/handle can have a place to grab, if I ever need a jump start.
My jumper cable would not clamp, on to the 12v positive post, because of the battery's location.

I used a extra small standard screwdriver (1/8" tip) and slid it in to my extra tiny console light's slot and turned it, to widen the slit. Now more light hits the console.
Funny you should say that about jumper cable access. Just for ha-has I read the manual today on how much tubberware needs to be removed in order to jump start a PP or use as remote to another vehicle! So for more coninued ha-has out to the garage I went and opened the hood, removed the front guard above the grill, skipped the air cleaner ducting, and removed the inverted party platter dish over the manifold to expose the engine hoist bracket that's used as the negative for the jumper. I'd make a bet that 8 out of 10 people that needed to go through the jumper procedure would have that tubberware party dish left behind the back seat along with the jumper cables. That was the biggest pain in the a$$ to line back up and snap on! My jumper cable will hold down to the positive no problem, but I'm considering extending the ground so I don't have to remove that manifold cover again! There is some really evil minded engineers at Honda!

Be curious to see a pic of your overhead console modification.
 

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I think I will have to check this battery situation out this week, sounds like a pain in the tush.
 

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Took advantage of the college hills Honda sale and installed my door visors tonight. Then, disconnected that speaker for the lift gate beeps. Omg, no more beeping!! Thanks to whom ever posted on how to do it!! I owe ya a 🍺!!
 

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My jumper cable will hold down to the positive no problem, but I'm considering extending the ground so I don't have to remove that manifold cover again! There is some really evil minded engineers at Honda!
Please post a picture of the extension you come up with. Sounds like a good idea. I agree, it's ridiculous what one has to go through for a battery jump. Just imagine doing all that on the on the side of the road on a rainy night.
 

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Please post a picture of the extension you come up with. Sounds like a good idea. I agree, it's ridiculous what one has to go through for a battery jump. Just imagine doing all that on the on the side of the road on a rainy night.
Definitely have to give it some thought. What kills me is why have the negative on the opposite side of the engine compartment? Personally I have an expensive pair of jumper cables that are molded into one cable casing and really not keen on splitting them any more than they where designed.
 

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Funny you should say that about jumper cable access. Just for ha-has I read the manual today on how much tubberware needs to be removed in order to jump start a PP or use as remote to another vehicle! So for more coninued ha-has out to the garage I went and opened the hood, removed the front guard above the grill, skipped the air cleaner ducting, and removed the inverted party platter dish over the manifold to expose the engine hoist bracket that's used as the negative for the jumper. I'd make a bet that 8 out of 10 people that needed to go through the jumper procedure would have that tubberware party dish left behind the back seat along with the jumper cables. That was the biggest pain in the a$$ to line back up and snap on! My jumper cable will hold down to the positive no problem, but I'm considering extending the ground so I don't have to remove that manifold cover again! There is some really evil minded engineers at Honda!

Be curious to see a pic of your overhead console modification.
You really don't need to read this, just look at the parts I used:
All of this goes on the driver's side about waist high.
One of these days I'll try to figure out how to get and use a imgur account, since photobucket hi-jacked and put a ransom on my account.

Black ground side:
I hope the thread pitch is right, I didn't buy this...I had one
3 ea Nuts
Washer outside diameter 1" hole is 10mm or 1/4"(ish)
Any reasonably sized lock washer

Positive extension side:
The hole needs to be 1/4"
The holes need to be 3/8"
Get 3' and trim some off
Dual termination posts red for +12v
Nylon bolts won't short out the positive termination housing to the jumper cable clamp
4 ea nylon 10-24 nuts to double nut each bolt
Tranny gasket maker

We're supposed to attach the black jumper cable's handle/clamp to chassis ground, so that was easy enough. I dug into my Honda/Acura used bolt box and found a 10mm head that was 1.5" long. There is a threaded hole (only one so you can't miss it) in the PP frame, on the driver's side, about waist high. I went to the hardware store and got 3 metric nuts and an over sized washer and 2 lock washers to match my OEM bolt.
I put the washer on the bolt, then a lock washer, and I tightened a nut against the washer, collapsing the lock washer. This over sized washer gives the jumper cable's handle/clamp something big to grab.
I ran the 2 remaining nuts up the bolt and screwed it in to the PP hole. I tightened the nut closest to the PP chassis 1st then I tightened the loose nut downward against the chassis' nut.

The positive side:
I got 3' of red #2 awg stranded wire, a 1/4" hole #2 compression sleeve/connector, a 3/8" double holed #2 awg compression sleeve/connector and an insulated red dual termination post. I ran the rec wire under the air intake plastic, under the radiator cover (only needed to pop one clip out). I marked the length and drove to a car stereo shop. They cut and compressed the connectors, for free.
I drilled the holes for the termination post in the middle (so the hood would close and not touch) of a piece of vertically positioned metal near the battery and near the above mentioned black post bolt.
I attached it with nylon 10-24 x 1" bolts, nuts, and a dab of transmission gasket maker (to prevent rusting).
 

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Definitely have to give it some thought. What kills me is why have the negative on the opposite side of the engine compartment? Personally I have an expensive pair of jumper cables that are molded into one cable casing and really not keen on splitting them any more than they where designed.
Look around the engine compartment. There is a bolt on the left side (driver's side) for the engine air filter. This bolt is grounded. If you can clamp on to the bolt, it will work for negative ground. I've used it for attaching a trickle charger.

Ground.JPG
 

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Look around the engine compartment. There is a bolt on the left side (driver's side) for the engine air filter. This bolt is grounded. If you can clamp on to the bolt, it will work for negative ground. I've used it for attaching a trickle charger.

View attachment 4544
Just to the right of the air filter silver bolt is where I set up my ground terminal bolt/washer.
If you look at the bottom of the photo, you'll see a thin black cable, which goes behind the vertical piece of metal, to which I mounted the positive terminal.
 

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"There is a threaded hole (only one so you can't miss it) in the PP frame, on the driver's side, about waist high." LOL, if it was a snake I would have been bit, appreciate being able to use the obvious! I had a piece of 1" x 3/16" galvanized bar stock that I cut to size, drilled a hole and bent 90*. It's a 6mm threaded hole, to which I found a suitable bolt out of my used automotive bolt box. Plenty of meat for the jumper cable to hold onto. Even found a tight fitting plasti-dipped cover that I slipped on to protect from the elements till it's time to need it.
Also maybe it's already a known fact but there is two positions that the PP hood can be held to by the support rod, the second one really gets the hood out of your way, same square hole but just above the left hinge.
4546
4547
 

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Gave the rig a bath today, which was long overdue.
 

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Last night, swapped in the aem dry flow air filter, and installed interior led lights, the glove box was the worst....


had to put the sticker on of course, incase for some odd reason i don't service this truck.



Vanity Mirror bulbs are obnoxious probably putting the originals back in


don't mind her little step stool, she cant get to the roof to clear snow without it hahaha

 

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Last night, swapped in the aem dry flow air filter, and installed interior led lights, the glove box was the worst....


had to put the sticker on of course, incase for some odd reason i don't service this truck.



Vanity Mirror bulbs are obnoxious probably putting the originals back in


don't mind her little step stool, she cant get to the roof to clear snow without it hahaha

Looks great! Curious, what manufacturer and part numbers did you use for the glove box and center console? I've researched this online and not had any luck. Thanks, Chris
 

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Looks great! Curious, what manufacturer and part numbers did you use for the glove box and center console? I've researched this online and not had any luck. Thanks, Chris
I used an LEDpartsnow kit, but the console and glove box light are the equivelent size to a 74 wedge bulb.

Please excuse my ignorance but why do you believe aftermarket air filters are superior?
What (perceived) advantages do these AEM filters provide?
Cotton gauze filters don't get as impacted with dirt and since they are washable they last approx the span of ten paper media air filters. There is other claims that they add horsepower and increase fuel economy i don't buy into that. What sells them for me is 45 dollars now or 250 dollars over the lifetime of the vehicle in regular engine air filters.
 

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If you have a new OEM air filter and put it against your mouth and try to blow, you will feel resistance.
If you do the same with the K&N air filter you will not feel resistance, but your lips will be red.
I have been using K&N and cleaning them (at about 10,000 -14,000 miles) since the mid nineties. My 2000 Integra and my 2001 Integra are still using the same K&N filters since 2003, when I installed them.
Improved performance = I really don't care
Improved MPG = I really con't care
Every 4 or 5 years I have to buy a new K&N Recharge kit
K&N Recharge Kit for K&N air filters
For our Passports:
K&N 33 5041 air filter
 
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