Hello there, first off where are you located? I'm in So. Cal. (just past Long Beach off the 405).

I have the absolute best Passport stereo upgrade here (no brag, just fact). I would happily get together and let you hear mine. I am using Audison DSP Amps powering 11 (high-end) speakers. I highly recommend Audison over JL..

Cheers
Steve

 

Hey Steve, nice setup! I've seen many of your posts over the last few days.

I am out in Lake Elsinore near the entrance of the Ortega.

Audison makes very nice gear but I got a kid in college 🤣 I'm limited on what I can tell my wife i got a 'good deal' on. Hahaha

Kam

 

Nice, I head out that way once in a while, my step father lives off of California Oaks (Murrietta?)

Anyway, Audison/Hertz USA is in Irvine and my buddy can get really good deals on gear, hit me up with a Conversation if interested..

The Hertz gear might be more in line with the JL RD-series.

You need to sound deaden all the doors, I'm not sure you can remove the factory sub, I asked my installer to do it, but it was somehow tied to the factory amp, so I had them make a custom enclosure in the passenger-side rear cubby-recess, but it can only hold an 8" sub...

 

Yep! we are exactly in that same area of Murrieta and California Oaks and Clinton Keith, our stomping grounds. Thats cool that you got some family out this way.

I saw some of the Hertz gear, was kind of intrigued with it so I will do some more looking around. I will do a little more checking on the sub situation but I saw one user who removed it, cut out some of the plastic cubby to get a custom box fabbed to fit the space.

Still I'm trying to obtain a wiring schematic of the factory amp so I can see what I am dealing with. I've had the higher end JL HD gear in all my previous cars, this one presents a challenge because of the factory unit and amp. I have always replaced the head units with aftermarket gear and go about my life. LOL

 

I upgraded the audio system on my EX-L, now rocking a full setup with 9 speakers. I tapped into the factory amp's output for the front speakers, which run full range. From there, the signal goes to an audio processor and gets split using the DSP. I’ve installed a 3-way setup up front, coaxial speakers in the rear, and added a stealth 12-inch subwoofer tucked neatly into the side of the trunk.

 

So did you have the tweeters in the a pillars up front?

I will at some point begin this but I have done standard audio systems my whole life with a dedicated head unit (alpine, kenwood, etc.) This will be my first ever to integrate the OEM audio into a setup. Thanks for the graphics. Do you have a full wiring/color set of schematics that identify everything?

 

Yeah, there were tweeters, but I didn’t bother with all the factory audio wiring. The way the stock amp processes the signal is pretty unclear, with unknown delays and some noise reduction algorithms that mess up the subwoofer. To get that deeper, cleaner sound, I added a sound processor. Each speaker brand needs specific crossover settings, so the audio processor was a must for dialing in the perfect sound.
I scrapped the factory wiring and ran new cables to the new speakers. I upgraded the front pillars for high and mid frequencies, but the low-end and rear speakers stayed in their original spots.
I can dig up some photos of the install if you want; just need to sift through the archives a bit. Also, don’t forget to disable the noise reduction system under the glove box. I’ve attached the wiring diagram I used.

 

Thank you! This schematic diagram is a great start for me. Why did they use the same colors for the front mids and tweets. 👎🤦‍♂️

 

To keep costs down, they used a capacitor on the tweeters as a basic crossover. Overall, the setup works great if you know exactly where to cut the frequencies so the tweeters blend smoothly with the lower range, and if you’re not planning to change them down the line.

 

Thanks for this post. To pick your brain, I have a 2026 passport and had crutchfield install 2 new door speakers, Lc2i pro, JL amp, JL subwoofer.

I disconnected the ANC module at the glovebox.

When he was done he either got up to a certain speed or was breaking and started to get reverberations in the subwoofer. Crutchfield indicated they would have to get into the headliner to disable the microphones of the ANC but with the ANC module disconnected those mics should be disconnected.

I believe it’s his tap off point that is causing the issue. He is using the factory rear subwoofer under the seat for his speaker signal (post amp).

Like you said the output of the amp is unclear with added signal processing and noise reduction so I am thinking of adding a DSP to the system. Any thoughts? Sorry for the long post I’ve just been heated I don’t have my system working lol.

 

Nate, this is purely a guess, but I do know a little about this having a $20K stereo in my PP. Your feed to your new Sub should be coming from you new JL Amp, NOT the OEM Sub feed!

You do not mention DSP, is your JL Amp a DSP model? If so the Bass to the Sub should be controlled by the DSP. I also assume they did a DSP tune on the system?????

I had an related issue, where my shop did the install and initial Tune, obviously with the car sitting and did not drive it and listen, when I drove it home, I had the ANC reverberations and had to disconnect it myself.. It sorta sounds like your ANC is NOT disconnected

 

The feed to the subwoofer comes from the JL amp. No, my amp is not a DSP model; I am considering adding one to counteract the signal coming from the factory amp. So the installer doesn't have to rewire the entire thing to the head unit.

I believe it mainly depends on the signal tap-off point. He is using the black and white wires from the factory sub under the rear seats as a signal, which is post-amp. A post-amp signal may have unusual timing, EQ, or noise reduction algorithms, and the LC2 doesn't know how to handle this, causing reverberation in the sub. I HIGHLY doubt they need to go into the headliner, since many people install their subs or aftermarket systems without that step.

I am trying to see what signal people use to their subwoofer. That piece of info would greatly help.

 

Ok, I would HIGHLY recommend going the DSP route...! I'm sure Crutchfield would agree, I love mine and it sounds awesome!

 

Im thinking about shucking out the cash and upgrading my amp to the DSP versions.

 

This stuff is waay above my pay grade, but it blows my mind that these (so called) professional installers can't get it right the first time. When I hear about a $20K system and they don't know enough to disconnect the ANC, my mind is baffled.

 

In my case I disconnected the ANC already but still getting reverberations in the subwoofer. They think they have to go into the headliner to disconnect the microphones but I don’t think they have to because everybody on these forums never have to be that intrusive.

 

Now, I could be wrong, but my thinking on how the ANC works (at least on my 2019 PP) is that it analyzes the interior sound and compares it to the OUTSIDE "rumble" of the road, then makes adjustments as need. So on mine even if it was technically "on", since it was not moving, there was not outside "rumble" to correct-for.

The things I think you need are: (1) A DSP AMP, (2) a DSP Tune and (3) Ensuring that the Sub feed is from the correct source (Note: Running your Sub Output from a DSP'd signal, will ensure that only the optimum signals are sent to your Sub.

I'm off to watch Football, be back laters...

 

Here's how ANC works according to Honda. Honda Information Center - Active Noise Cancellation™ (ANC) System (Select models)

 

Here's how ANC works according to Honda. Honda Information Center - Active Noise Cancellation™ (ANC) System (Select models)

Yep, so based off that info even if the car sits there it should work. So further solidifies it is not the ANC module/mics.

 

Perhaps a grounding problem...!

 

I also thought of a grounding problem but that too would show just sitting in the bay. I really appreciate your guy’s help and ideas.

 

Well yeah, we can only suggest, there are really only three options:
1) Something OEM is bad
2) New parts are bad
3) Install is bad

Crutchfield is a big company that should stand behind their products and work...!

 

I don't remember posting back on here but I did finish my system a couple months ago. I love it!!

NateJ - if you need info on wiring and the harnesses, let me know. The harnesses will make your life 10 times easier but you will still need to really stop and think about the wiring, make sure you have a good lay of the land.

I am running a JL Fix86 to a JL RD900/5 to CT Sounds 6.5 comps in front and 6.5 coax in the rear. Running a Kicker 12, Using 4ga OFC power wire. My goal was to make my system fit under the cargo area with no visible speaker box to take up space in the cargo area.

Quirks of the system - I am using the signal sense setting on the fix86 to turn on my DSP and amp. Works pretty well except for if you go below 7 on volume, it shuts off. LOL I'm going to have to fix that with a fuse tap or find a 12v power source in the rear, maybe the one that turns on the factory amp. We'll see.

2nd quirk - I haven't played a whole lot with the Fix86, I like to set it and forget it. Rock music sounds great, good kick drum hits, the sub articulates well. beautiful bass guitar lines but certain music and it could just be in the recordings but I use Apple Music to android auto with lossless setting. The sub sounds lacking when playing other pop type or 90s rap music. ANC module was yanked and burned at the stake. I have a feeling the factory sub input into my Fix86 is the culprit as its limiting lower frequencies to protect the factory sub which is not there. I'm going to have to dig a bit and see if I can set it to 4 channel input and still be able to use the DRC knob to control bass levels.

I've had subs with less power get down and dirty, LOL

 

I don't remember posting back on here but I did finish my system a couple months ago. I love it!!

NateJ - if you need info on wiring and the harnesses, let me know. The harnesses will make your life 10 times easier but you will still need to really stop and think about the wiring, make sure you have a good lay of the land.

I am running a JL Fix86 to a JL RD900/5 to CT Sounds 6.5 comps in front and 6.5 coax in the rear. Running a Kicker 12, Using 4ga OFC power wire. My goal was to make my system fit under the cargo area with no visible speaker box to take up space in the cargo area.

Quirks of the system - I am using the signal sense setting on the fix86 to turn on my DSP and amp. Works pretty well except for if you go below 7 on volume, it shuts off. LOL I'm going to have to fix that with a fuse tap or find a 12v power source in the rear, maybe the one that turns on the factory amp. We'll see.

2nd quirk - I haven't played a whole lot with the Fix86, I like to set it and forget it. Rock music sounds great, good kick drum hits, the sub articulates well. beautiful bass guitar lines but certain music and it could just be in the recordings but I use Apple Music to android auto with lossless setting. The sub sounds lacking when playing other pop type or 90s rap music. ANC module was yanked and burned at the stake. I have a feeling the factory sub input into my Fix86 is the culprit as its limiting lower frequencies to protect the factory sub which is not there. I'm going to have to dig a bit and see if I can set it to 4 channel input and still be able to use the DRC knob to control bass levels.

I've had subs with less power get down and dirty, LOL

Well I installed the fuse back and played some music and I think it sounds fine. I heard what he considered ”reverberations” and played with the Lc2i pros base roll off and will look at the amp settings after I drive around a bit. I personally don’t see anything wrong with it and can not notice any major ANC compressions.