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The Elite/Touring Stereo Upgrade Thread

28K views 52 replies 14 participants last post by  stevenD 
#1 · (Edited)
For Elite & Touring Owners, having the 540w Stereo: List and discuss your Stereo upgrades (or questions about upgrading), in here.

NOTE:
I also made a thread for the Basic 150w Stereo for those of you wishing to discuss issues regarding those models.

I'll go first, made a trip to a local Stereo store and they told me that they have upgraded two Passports in the last few months.

The latest Passport owner bought the Infinity REF-6530cx component speakers but the OEM 540w Amp was too under-powered to properly drive them, so they swapped them out two sets of Focal 165as and those sounded awesome and the Passport owner was super happy!

So I ordered two pairs of the Focal 165AS and will replace the front and rear Tweeters and the front & rear door Mid-Range/Woofers

Here is the Crutchfield link to the speakers I ordered, they have really great reviews:

As for what it's going to cost: well for two sets of these speakers, Installation, Dynamat in all four doors, and tax, it came to $800. (Which I thought was a pretty good deal, since the Focal speakers alone are $760 from Crutchfield).

Anyway, they had to order them and I will have them installed on Nov 16th, so I will update this thread after installation.
 
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#3 ·
For Elite & Touring Owners, having the 550w Stereo: List and discuss your Stereo upgrades (or questions about upgrading), in here.

NOTE:
I also made a thread for the Basic 150w Stereo for those of you wishing to discuss issues regarding those models.

I'll go first, made a trip to a local Stereo store and they told me that they have upgraded two Passports in the last few months.

The latest Passport owner bought the Infinity REF-6530cx component speakers but the OEM 550w Amp was too under-powered to properly drive them, so they swapped them out two sets of Focal 165as and those sounded awesome and the Passport owner was super happy!

So I ordered two pairs of the Focal 165AS and will replace the front and rear Tweeters and the front & rear door Mid-Range/Woofers

Here is the Crutchfield link to the speakers I ordered, they have really great reviews:

As for what it's going to cost: well for two sets of these speakers, Installation, Dynamat in all four doors, and tax, it came to $800. (Which I thought was a pretty good deal, since the Focal speakers alone are $760 from Crutchfield).

Anyway, they had to order them and I will have them installed on Nov 16th, so I will update this thread after installation.
Are you going to stick with the factory sub?
 
#4 ·
Yes...!
 
#6 ·
It's all a crap shoot (just spent the last 3-days in Vegas - drove the Passport!) until I hear the new set-up.

At first I was just going to add new high quality co-axials in all four doors, but after hearing Storms thoughts and talking to my Car Stereo guy, I did not want to add four more tweeters to the front two tweeters and the rear two mid-range tweeters, that could cause some serious problems with the phasing and imaging of the highs.

The current Elite/Touring set-up has several strong points:
(1) It has a pretty darn good sub-woofer, which "my guy" recommended keeping, it has plenty enough punch for my taste.
(2) The OEM layout is VERY well blended, which I may lose when going with the Focals, But, I am reasonably sure that the Highs, Mid-range and Bass will all sound better!

The plan is to put the two rear Focal tweeters where the current (rear) Mid-ranges are. The Focal Crossovers have three settings: Flat, +3db and -3db, so they sound be able to dial in the tweeters.

What is not known, is how the 540 watts are distributed, if the sub gets 100w (not sure), then is the remaining 440w distributed to the other nine speakers (@ 50w)? But the Sub could be getting 150w and the Center channel only 25w, which might mean less per channel, but the tweeters don't need 50w, running through a crossover.

So, I don't know, I'm just putting my faith in the shop, to give me something better sounding than stock...

stay tuned...
 
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#8 ·
It's all a crap shoot (just spent the last 3-days in Vegas - drove the Passport!) until I hear the new set-up.

At first i was just going to add new high quality co-axials in all four doors, but after hearing Storms thoughts and talking to my Car Stereo guy, I did not want to add four more tweeters to the front two tweeters and the rear two mid-range tweeters, that could cause some serious problems with the phasing and imaging of the highs.

The current Elite/Touring set-up has several strong points:
(1) It has a pretty darn good sub-woofer, which "my guy" recommended keeping, it has plenty enough punch for my taste.
(2) The OEM layout is VERY well blended, which I may lose when going with the Focals, But, I am reasonably sure that the Highs, Mid-range and Bass will all sound better!

The plan is to put the two rear Focal tweeters where the current (rear) Mid-ranges are. The Focal Crossovers have three settings: Flat, +3db and -3db, so they sound be able to dial in the tweeters.

What is not known, is how the 550 watts are distributed, if the sub gets 100w (not sure), then is the remaining 450w distributed to the other nine speakers (@ 50w)? But the Sub could be getting 150w and the Center channel only 25w, which might mean less per channel, but the tweeters don't need 50w, running through a crossover.

So, I don't know, I'm just putting my faith in the shop, to give me something better sounding than stock...

stay tuned...
OK, great. Keep us posted!
 
#7 ·
Can’t give you advice, however, there were two Passports in Vegas!
I drove over on Friday for the 6 year old nephews birthday which is tomorrow, and probably back to HB on Wednesday!
 
This post has been deleted
#11 · (Edited)
HERE IS MY RECOMMENDATION FOR ANYONE WANTING TO VASTLY IMPROVE THEIR TOURING/ELITE STEREOS:

I got see the 2ohm woofers that were removed from the doors and YES, they are quite whimpy! The Touring and Elite system is well designed but the speakers are the weakest point. For anyone wanting to improve their listening experience, I would highly recommend upgrading these (8) speakers:
1) The front Tweeters (on the A-Pillers),
2) The rear midrange/tweeters (in the C-Pillers, on the upper rear side panels)
3) The four door speakers (Woofers)

Also NEW wires need to be run from the Crossover (which is typically mounted in the doors, near the woofers) to the new Tweeters - DO NOT USE THE EXISTING WIres as they bypass the Crossover and will not sound right! Also you will need to add some sound deadening materials in the doors - at least around the new woofers.

For optimum sound and the best possible balance and sound-stage: the four tweeters should be the same and the front and rear door woofers should be the same. I recommend separate components with an ADJUSTABLE crossover (this will allow you to customize the tweeter sound to what you like best. Now you do not need to get the (nearly $400 per pair) that I did, but remember the old adage: "you get what you pay for" as it is very true when it comes to speakers!

I recommend getting them professionally installed as well, and checking out Crutchfield, you can load in that you have a 2019 Passport and search for "Component Speakers". Sort from "LOW-to-HIGH Price" and scroll through all your options. Read the reviews, look at specs, it's fun and free!

Several things to be careful with; first, is that you do not want to get a speaker that requires much more that 50 watts, as the OEM Amp is probably rated in the 40-50 watts range (this is just my educated guess). Also look for speakers that have a high Sensitivity, the higher they are the louder they will be (basically 95db is better than 88db - due to the limited power (watts) the OEM Amp puts out). And since the OEM speakers are 2 ohms, I would go with 2-4ohms as again, this has to do with how well the OEM Amp will drive the replacement speakers!

If you are looking for a low-cost upgrade, consider the JBL 601C, they have an adjustable crossover and @ $80/pair, you will hear the difference. The Infinity PR6510CS are also another excellent choice at only 10 bucks more ($90).

Going up a bit @ $135, the JBL 6500C will sound even better! @ the same price are the Morel Maximo 6, they have a huge amount of positives and this brand also makes super expensive speakers, and are a reputable automotive speaker company.

Farther up at $150 is the Infinity REF6530cx, which is much better than any of the lower priced units mentioned.

At the $200 range: the Morel Ultra 602 ($215) is a rockin' good choice...! as is the even better Morel Maximus 602 ($242) also the Focal 165 YE @ $250 is a great deal at a huge discount!

Higher still is the Infinity Kappa 60csx, @ $263, I'm sure these would sound pretty great!

When you scroll up to the $379 price point, you'll see the Focal Performance 165AS speakers that I bought, probably overkill for most, but what can I say, except I like my music!

Now, if you sort from High-to-Low-Price at Crutchfield, you'll find a set of Morel speakers selling for $5,000, you'll probably need an Amp for these...lol There are also a number of Components sets in the $500 to $2,000 price range, if you want to impress...

If you buy the speakers from Crutchfield you can still have a local shop or Best Buy install them.

Any questions, please feel to ask...

cheers
 
#12 ·
Another thing: my installer had to cut the original (door) speakers to remove the mounting brackets (I did not see what was removed, but I do have one of the OEM speakers). The removed mounting brackets were used to mount the new speakers. So others may need to do this as well or perhaps there are after market brackets that places like Crutchfield sells to the self-installers.
 
#13 ·
Might be something with the way Honda designs their sound systems. I know when I had it done in my 17 Ridgeline the installer had to destroy the factory speakers in order to install the new Memphis Audio speakers that replaced them.
Have you noticed any change yet in the new Focals or are they still getting "burned in"? Also, I know you like the factory sub, I was curious as to why you chose not to do anything different with the center speaker - were you advised not to mess with it or that is wasn't necessary to change it out? Just trying to gather as much info as possible. Thanks.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Fantastic information Couple of additional questions:
My pleasure...

Am I correct to assume that your speaker upgrade did NOT require that you disable ANC?
I did quite a bit of reading in other Honda Forums (Pilot & Accord mostly) about the ANC and it appears to me that people generally have problems with it, in regards to the sub-woofer (either adding one or swapping the stock one out) and a poster here had the same types of issues. So my thinking was, that I may have to try and disable it. But, I decided to do the speakers first and then listen for any strange reverberations/rumble or any out-of-sync/out-of-phase conditions. In listening to the stereo with the engine OFF or when driving at speeds up to 70mph, EVERYTHING sounds awesome, so I see no need to disconnect the ANC. I know some people here say they could hear a difference, but if it sounds fine connected, why disconnect? right?

Since you went from 2 ohm stock/wimpy speakers to 4 ohm upgrade speakers have you heard a noticeable decrease in power/loudness?
This was huge concern for me, so I fully understand, but I was lucky that the Car Stereo shop had previously put the Infinity's that I wanted in a Passport and they required too much power and did not sound good, so they upgraded to the Focal (165AS) and they worked great, I had read about Focals for years and this model was highly recommended on Crutchfield so I went with them and was not disappointed at all! The one thing I did not calculate or measure is the volume setting for the stock stereo.

So, it may very well be, that I need to turn the Focals up to "28" when the stock speakers were the same "loud" at "22", I cannot tell you. But I can say that when I have the Focals turned up to a much louder volume than I normally listen to - it is NOT max'd out - meaning they could probably go even louder! And this is important as you do not want to run the AMP at the max or even near max, as it could cause severe distortion, over heat, or shut down.

Hope that helps, any more questions (by anyone), please just ask...
 
#20 ·
Just wanted to add to the thread regarding aftermarket amplifier install.

Steven had a great video about getting a power wire through the fire wall for aftermarket amps. He used the passenger side grommet which is easier to see and get to, but there is an alternative too.

Today I found out how easy it is to go driver side, where the grommet is hidden below the driver side engine compartment fuse box. Left side is is also the battery side and also not the side the factory amplifier speaker wires route on. Left is preferred for that reason (speaker and power should be spaced apart or cross at 90 degrees when possible) plus you save a few feet of cable by not having to go as far in the engine compartment. The route also avoids heat sources better by staying by the battery and air filter and not going near cooling lines or engine block.

To go left/driver side, first press 3 plastic tabs on the outside of the fuse box in driver side engine of compartment. Not the tabs that pop the cover, the ones further out that hold the whole box to the plastic bracket. This will let you get better access to the driver side firewall grommet. It is still tight work space, but you can snake back and feel the grommet with tbe big driver side wire bundle. A bright headlamp should let you see well engough to grab the grommet and make a careful piercing to the rubber only (no wires).

Before you try to pull cable, do yourself a favor and buy a proper fish tape for ten bucks before trying to get a cable through the grommets extra space and into the compartment. Hangers and wires work fine too, but around all the modules, you will want something flexible and easier to push.

The hardest part is piercing the grommet with a small knife, very carefully slicing just loose rubber and not the wires inside, and then fishing the tape past the internal grommet folds of rubber. Once you get into the cabin you will suddenyl be able to push a couple feet of the fish tape. The grommet hole comes out right behind a bright silver module above the brake pedal, perfectly positioned to easily grab the fish tape (much easier than the right side) which will come out from behind that module obviously. It is then quite simple to pull cable through the firewall with the wire taped to the tail end of fishtape. Tape several inches of wire to the fish tape using duct or electrical tape and make sure to tape past the join and taper to smooth shapes so it will pull without resistance. Route the cable down the left side of the car under the kick and door trim panels.

Figuring out which side and how to get in took me the longest. Now that I know a cable could be brought in and routed on the left, anyone can do this in less than 30 minutes easy. There is lots of space in back for amps or aftermarket subs if you want to add something.

I will post pictures later to help others see what I did.
 
#23 ·
Here is a 30-day update on my Focal Speaker upgrade: They are breaking-in/burn-in and starting to sound even better!

Apparently the tweeters are known for being super bright and the installer seems to think he set the Crossover (for the Tweeter) at +3.

Since the Crossover range is -3 to +3, I made an appointment for Jan 3, 2020, to have them set the Crossovers at -3, which should be fine in my estimate.

I'll post another update down the road...

Cheers!
 
#24 ·
Hello music fans and happy new year! Well, as stated in my previous post, I visited my Car Stereo Shop yesterday and had them set my Crossovers to -3db.

60-Day UPDATE: With the combination of the Tweeters being "dialed-down" and the speakers well into their "break-in" period, I have to say that I am super happy with my speaker upgrade, would do it again in a second and highly recommend these Focal speakers or any other speaker upgrade over the stock speakers for Audiophiles!

As for my settings;
Center Channel: All the way towards "OFF" - I want to hear the left & right stereo channels - NOT a blended channel.
Sub Woofer: +1 Click
Bass: +1 Click
Midrange: +1 Click
Treble: Flat (Center)
Fader: +2 Clicks towards the Rear
Left/Right: Center
DSP: Off

The stock speakers sound really good for most people and if you only listen to news, sports and weather, they do a wonderful job and I see no reason to upgrade the speakers.

Cheers and feel free to ask anything questions...
 
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#38 ·
Hello music fans and happy new year! Well, as stated in my previous post, I visited my Car Stereo Shop yesterday and had them set my Crossovers to -3db.

60-Day UPDATE: With the combination of the Tweeters being "dialed-down" and the speakers well into their "break-in" period, I have to say that I am super happy with my speaker upgrade, would do it again in a second and highly recommend these Focal speakers or any other speaker upgrade over the stock speakers for Audiophiles!

As for my settings;
Center Channel: All the way towards "OFF" - I want to hear the left & right stereo channels - NOT a blended channel.
Sub Woofer: +1 Click
Bass: +1 Click
Midrange: +1 Click
Treble: Flat (Center)
Fader: +2 Clicks towards the Rear
Left/Right: Center
DSP: Off

The stock speakers sound really good for most people and if you only listen to news, sports and weather, they do a wonderful job and I see no reason to upgrade the speakers.

Cheers and feel free to ask anything questions...
So what was the total cost for installing the Focus speakers/crossovers and would anybody recommend Best Buy to do the install? I'm a little skeptical on their ability to do a quality installation with out damaging my PP Elite. I live in the Chicagoland area (extreme south). Also can you share any pictures of your beautiful install?
 
#25 ·
Thank you for sharing the information on your install. I also have a Touring AWD and have a question in reference to the rear speaker install locations. From the rear passengers perspective, how does the separation of having the mid bass in the door and the tweeter behind you sound? Are the high frequencies exaggerated for them? Was debating on how eliminating the rear pillar speakers and just putting coaxes in the rear doors would sound instead.
 
#26 ·
bumped
 
#27 ·
As I stated in an earlier post to this Passport Forum, I was very unhappy with the "upgrade" stereo in the my Passport Touring. For the first few months of owning my Passport, I tried my best to get used to this compromised listening experience. To me, although not awful, this so-called "premium" audio system was mediocre & very disappointing to the ears of someone who greatly appreciates the nuances of quality sound reproduction.
I started out thinking to replace only the front & rear speakers but this led to the issue of the original low performance 2 ohm OEM speakers & the problem that most higher-end aftermarket speakers are most typically 4 ohm & would cut the OEM 525 watt amplifier power substantially (50%?). So, unfortunately, if I wanted to truly upgrade my Passport's sound I needed to not only replace the speakers I also needed new amplifiers to power them.
A number of months ago I received a small amount of inheritance money so I decided to proceed with a full speaker & amplifier sound system upgrade.
Being an "older" guy with significant back & hip problems, this upgrade is not something that I could physically do myself. So I worked with a custom sound aftermarket company located in my area that I had previously used for 3 different car sound system upgrades.
The front component speakers were replaced with Hertz Mille Pro MPK 165.3 that I had removed from a previous vehicle. These Hertz Mille's are 4 ohm component speakers with a 1" tweeter & a 6.5" midrange/woofer. They reproduce excellent upper range highs with fantastic mid-bass. Dynamat was used around the 6.5" speaker in the lower door.
The rear lower door speakers were also replaced by speakers that I had removed from a previous vehicle. They are 6.5" Hertz Cento Pro CPX 165 coaxial speaker that provide very nice rear "fill" sound for the main Mille Pro's being used upfront. Dynamat was also used.
Powering these new 4 ohm replacement speakers with the Passport's stock OEM amplifier was not the best upgrade option so we used an Audio Control D-6-1200 (a 6 channel Digital Sound Processing Matrix Amplilier) to power the six (6) speakers in the doors. The front tweeters were disconnected from the 6.5" front lower door speakers & power from the DSP amp was wired directly to the tweeters. This 6 channel DSP amp provides 125 watts per channel at 4 ohms for a total of 750 watts (2 tweeters & 4 - 6.5" door speakers). The Audio Control was located underheath the front passenger seat.
We also replaced the stock rear 8" subwoofer with a Kenwood [model KFC-XW800F) 4 ohm "slim" subwoofer powered by its own Audio Control Micro Amplifier ACM-1.300 (175 watts at 4 ohms). This sub Amp is located in the right back wheel well near the rear hatch. So as not to give up any of the rear trunk storage area, the plastic subwoofer housing of the original OEM sub was used but was reinforced as much as possible & additionally with some Dynamat. This bass setup does NOT provide the deep bass "kick" in the chest that my big-ass home subwoofer does, but you can certainly feel some nice lower level "thump". Unfortunately, this sub setup caused some "resonance" issues that required some additional after installation tinkering to correct. Dynamat needed to be installed around my rear driver side tailight & around some other trunk areas that were also vibrating.
The front center dashboard speaker is not wired into this system but had to be left active thru the Passport's original amp to provide sound for phone & GPS navigation. The 3" speakers in the rear trunk columns were left in place but are not connected to the new system. There are not a lot of 3" replacement speakers available that are 4 ohm & I didn't have the money to replace them. Sinse the Audio Control's 6 channels of power were directly wired to the 2 front tweeters, to the 2 front 6.5" mid/woofers & to the 2 rear door 6.5" door speakers nothing was available to power the 2 rear column speakers.
Overall cost was approximately $2100 not including the 2 sets of speakers that were used from a previous vehicle's system (add $700 for speakers).
Once removed, it was easy to see that the the original stock 2 ohm OEM speakers were an insult to the concept of quality sound reproduction. The magnets in these OEM speakers were a featherweight embarrasment. Installation was about 3 months ago.
After some tuning by my installer to match my personal listening preferences & to adjust to vehicle acoustical challenges, this new upgrade system system sound is AWESOME with a legitimate 925 watts of power available (at 4 ohms RMS)!!
 
#28 ·
That sounds awesome Dhkzr2019, Did you end up disabling the ANC?

Where are you located? I'd love to hear it...!
 
#30 ·
Very inspiring post, stevenD! I am interesting in doing an upgrade like yours. I've read over your post a couple times to scrape as much info as I could, so forgive me if I am asking something you've already wrote.

1) So, the Focal Performance 165AS is a set of speakers, and I'll need 2 sets, correct? Will that give me the 8 speakers that I need to replace the 8 speakers you recommend replacing?

2) You only replaced the speakers, right? I didn't see where you mentioned an amp, so the OEM amp was enough for you?

3) You mentioned that the installer had to cut the bracket to get the door speakers in, but someone else said that wasn't necessary. Can you (or someone) else verify if these speakers can be installed without modification? I really don't want to cut up my 2020 Passport that just crossed the 1000 mile mark! :oops:

4) Did you ever disable the ANC? Five months ago you said you weren't going to, but I wonder if you changed your mind. If so, has it made a difference in interior noise (louder) or music quality (better) improvement?
 
#31 ·
1) So, the Focal Performance 165AS is a set of speakers, and I'll need 2 sets, correct? Will that give me the 8 speakers that I need to replace the 8 speakers you recommend replacing?
Yes, each set (or pair) of Speakers = 2 woofers, 2 tweeters and two crossovers. This was slightly different than the two others here, one person, went with Coaxials in his rear doors, which he says sounds fine. And while I believe him, you have to remember two things: (1) Tweeters are very "directional" and having two of the same as your front tweeters installed in the rear C Pillers, facing forward will ensure you are enveloped with the "highs" and (2) I am not completely convinced that Coax Tweeters are the same as the Front Tweeters, so they may have different specs and could have some blending issues! So again, I highly recommend using the exact same speakers Front & Back.

2) You only replaced the speakers, right? I didn't see where you mentioned an amp, so the OEM amp was enough for you?
Yes, but you have to find speakers that work with low power, the model Focals I got only require 6 watts minimum, which the Passport has no problem. Of course an amp would be better, but it would significantly increase the cost, the other two guys here who did major upgrades spent about $3k & $10K (my estimates, not theirs). So again, I figured I could walways add an Amp later, if the stock Amp did not perform. Lastly, looking at the Speakers you need to NOT only go by the Ohm Load, you need to look at the Minimum Power Rating (don't get ones that need 75wpc) and the Sensitivity Rating (this is the amount of sound the speaker will produce @ 1w) - the higher the number, the more efficient the speaker is. All of these are important UNLESS you are going to use an external Amp.

3) You mentioned that the installer had to cut the bracket to get the door speakers in, but someone else said that wasn't necessary. Can you (or someone) else verify if these speakers can be installed without modification? I really don't want to cut up my 2020 Passport that just crossed the 1000 mile mark! :oops:
No problem, there was no cutting on the Passport, the guy said he just cut away some brackets on the stock speakers, someone else said they make aftermarket mounting brackets, but using the ones off the old speakers 9that were going in the trash anyway) did not affect anything.

4) Did you ever disable the ANC? Five months ago you said you weren't going to, but I wonder if you changed your mind. If so, has it made a difference in interior noise (louder) or music quality (better) improvement?
Again, most all of the people complaining about the ANC comes when you REPLACE the existing Sub, which I did not. I listened to songs with heavy, clear Bass, with the car OFF and listened to the same songs on the freeway at 60mph and this old (100+ Concert) ears could not tell a difference, so I left the ANC alone, maybe someday I'll disconnect it for "S&G", but I'm very happy with the stereo as it is.

Hope that helps, anything else, please hit me up...
 
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#33 ·
Take your time and you should be fine.. and keep me (us) updated
 
#35 · (Edited)
COOL..btw, I left a review of them on Crutchfiled, did ya see it? (It has my name and I say PASSPORT)!..

Oh, and be sure to put some sound deadening in all the doors, even if it is just around the Focals...
 
#36 ·
Hmmm, okay so I plan on sending these Focal Performance 165AS back. Here's the problems I had with them:

1) The mounting brackets (for the woofers) shipped by Crutchfield do not fit without modification. That by itself is not a big deal, but anyone without a Dremel is going to need to buy one. There are tabs that need to be cut off for the speaker to fit within the bracket.

2) The tweeters have no way of mounting to the A pillar. I mean, they fit into the original hole just fine, but there is no way to secure them in place. None of the options that came with the speakers worked. I wasn't about to hit it with a hot glue gun, and I don't have any fabrication equipment that could be used to make a bracket to hold it in place. I wonder how yours were done, stevenD?

3) I am completely unsure about how to setup the crossover unit. I would think that Honda's head unit already has a crossover processor in it since it must intelligently know how to drive the pillar tweeters separately from the door woofers. That said, it would take some crafty wiring to rewire the pillar tweeters to the a crossover modelue mounted in the door. Way above my pay grade, for sure.

4) Even after I got the front door woofer mounted and the door put back together, I did some testing. Moving the fader and balance around to isolate the sound from the new front right speaker, then to the old front left speaker, I noticed the new speaker does require significantly more volume to get it to sound the same as the old speaker. Once the volume is high enough, yeah, the Focal Performance speaker did sound tighter & punchier. Just not enough for me to justify the expense of $380 x 2.

Anyway, I'm not done with the idea of obtaining better Passport audio, but I don't think I am going to go it myself. When I have the money, I'll find a reputable audio shop and have them sell me a system as well as do the install themselves.
 
#37 ·
Hmmm, okay so I plan on sending these Focal Performance 165AS back. Here's the problems I had with them:

Anyway, I'm not done with the idea of obtaining better Passport audio, but I don't think I am going to go it myself. When I have the money, I'll find a reputable audio shop and have them sell me a system as well as do the install themselves.
Oh man, sorry to hear that, like I said, I had a shop do it and I was not standing there, so they may have very well siliconed everything in place. Oh, well, keep us updated when you do get upgraded...!
 
#46 ·
Hi, I have enjoyed reading your various posts re audio mods. I am interested in replacing the A pillar tweeters. I am looking for ones that will just snap into the existing openings. Also do not want to mess with new crossovers, etc. Hopefully something around $200 for the set. Would you have any suggestions?
Thanks!
 
#47 ·
Hi, I have enjoyed reading your various posts re audio mods. I am interested in replacing the A pillar tweeters. I am looking for ones that will just snap into the existing openings. Also do not want to mess with new crossovers, etc. Hopefully something around $200 for the set. Would you have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Perfect timing, have a look at these: JBL Club 605CSQ

If you go to Crutchfield and put in your make & model, they will tell you what will fit and what adapters you will need!

The above speakers are 3ohm vs the OEM 2ohm speakers, they should work fine, just might have to turn it up a bit louder - BUT you may not have to as the JBL as spec'd at 93db - which is VERY effecient, so their is a chance they may even go louder, since we do not know the rating on the OEM speakers.

At any rate, these have very good reviews from 3 other Honda owners. You should NOT have to use the JBL crossovers, just do a speaker for speaker swap.

Cheers!
 
#48 ·
Hi, Thanks for getting back so quickly! I tried Crutchfield's site but all their suggested speakers called for some sort of alternative mounting such as hot glue or silicone. Perhaps they just say that about all.
I thought the PP speakers were 2 ohm, not 4.
Did I think wrong ?
I will definitely look into the JBLs. Actually, I am pretty pleased with the setup I have i.e. Infinities in the doors, Dynamat in the doors, and MLV everywhere I could put it. All thanks to your recommendations! But I have run out things to spend $ on the PP so I thought I would change out the tweeters then the C pillar speakers after that. :)
 
#49 ·
Nope, that was a typo, they are 2 ohm...

that might get tricky as I think the speakers in the C-Pillars (Touring/Elite) are some sort of Tweeter/Midrange..

Next up for you is replacing the Amp (lol)... It makes a huge difference

Anyway, aren't you in San Diego? If so, I will gladly demo my set up for you if you ever get up OC way, just let me know ahead of time...

Cheers
 
#50 ·
Hi @stevenD. You are a wealth of information, thank you for sharing all of this knowledge with us. I have a question for you regarding my front component speaker upgrade. I'm going with the Infinity Kappa 60csx component speakers in the front doors and A pillars of my 2020 Elite. Should I use the included crossover or just replace speaker for speaker? Thanks again for your help!
 
#51 ·
Hi @stevenD. You are a wealth of information, thank you for sharing all of this knowledge with us. I have a question for you regarding my front component speaker upgrade. I'm going with the Infinity Kappa 60csx component speakers in the front doors and A pillars of my 2020 Elite. Should I use the included crossover or just replace speaker for speaker? Thanks again for your help!
Hello CDW Sorry for the late reply, I believe the OEM stereo is DSP, meaning the frequencies sent to each speaker is controlled by the AMP/DSP Unit, I would try with & without the crossovers and see what sounds best...!

And be sure to sound deaden your doors...!
 
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