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Successful Modification of Stock Subwoofer

13K views 20 replies 6 participants last post by  ironchef19 
#1 ·
After some trial and error, I’ve finally landed on a method to transform our decent subwoofer into a mini monster. Here’s the breakdown of work and parts required:

1- Remove sub enclosure.
2- Remove stock DVC sub.
3- Cut and fit Resonix CLD sound deadener to every flat surface inside the enclosure.
4- Cut and fit Resonix CLD to the outside as well.
5- Mount poly reinforcing ring to enclosure opening.
6- Remove stock wiring and grommet, retain the grommet.
7- Slide grommet onto new wiring and RTV it in place.
8- Insert Polyfil.
9- Insert and wire up 8” Alpine Type R subwoofer.
10- Reinstall loaded enclosure with rubber grommets under the mounting feet.

Now, you will need to feed this little beast some power to make it rumble. I used my JL Audio XD1000/1 wired at 4 ohms to send 600 watts to it. The results are astounding. I’ve redone the back end of my entire competition grade system because of how good this performs. Pics below....

Resonix: ResoNix Sound Solutions – Premium Automotive Sound Treatment Solutions

Mounting Ring:

Wire Connection: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ETROGP4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Polyfil:

RTV: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002UEN1U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Subwoofer:
 

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#4 ·
Hello Ironchef, I was just thinking about you the other day because I was actually looking into upgrading my Sub, so this came at a perfect time.

The main difference is that I am wanting to use the OEM Amp to power it. Do you have any idea of the number of Watts being sent to the OEM sub, by the OEM amp?

I will be sure to do all the extra insulation you mention.

Other than that how is your system sounding now???
 
#5 ·
So, the techniques above will net a much better enclosure capable of handling power and sound production. But I can’t remember if the stock sub is a 1 or 2 ohm unit. Now, the power from the stock amp is pretty low but either of these might just work for you:

If stock is 2 ohm:

If stock is 1 ohm:
 
#12 · (Edited)
Nice mod! Really like the custom enclosure. It is a great space for something like that if you aren't storing things there. I did competition style systems long ago and don't have the interest or time any more but applaud those who do and still enjoy seeing what people come up with.

I also did similar mods to the stock sub enclosure but left it connected to stock amp and also added a cheaper Rockford Punch 300 8" powered enclosure tapped off the sub line level. The stock sub is dual 2 ohm. Without an add on amp, the stock amp is woefully underpowered for a Pioneer or Alpine sub or any high power sub really- I tried and would not advise anyone waste the time or money.

I carry too much gear for other things to dedicate permanent space in this car to amps and equalizers and more, so adding the removable Rockford enclosure was a good solution and it is more controlled and lower frequency capable than I would have expected for a budget 8". I also updated all four door speakers to Infinity coax to have something more accurate and sensitive, but retained the stock amp for them. It sounds great (for what it is) and the extra sub is removable in seconds when I need to carry more gear in the cargo area.

Getting fairly quiet tires and installing a proper amount of vibration damper, mass loaded vinyl, and closed cell foam made the largest difference in the quality of being in the cabin, and of the audio- far more than anything I did to the audio system itself. Making the cabin quieter along with disconnecting the fake exhaust sound (yes, really Honda...) and active noise cancelation module, made a quality improvement as well. I'd advise anyone spending significant time and money on audio for this vehicle- properly treat your doors, roof, hatch and floor with the right materials- which is NOT ten layers of dynamat or covering every inch with it- beyond a certain amount is zero benefit. 25-40% coverage of a single layer of a quality butyl vibration damper on resonant sheet metal or plastic, closed cell foam in open spaces and roof under headliner, and properly decoupled 1/16" mass loaded vinyl on floor and doors can take audio, and peace, to a new level in this vehicle.
 
#13 ·
Hi Storm303, I want to add a stand alone powered sub similar to what you describe... Did you use a line out converter to connect yours? Or is there a line level out somewhere? I haven’t done much car audio stuff but I have a powered JBL sub lying around that I would like to use and I’m wondering how you tapped into the system to feed your Rockford?
 
#20 ·
Hello IronChef and Happy Thanksgiving!

More questions, if/when you have the time:

1) In your initial build (in the full SQ thread) you showed two JL Subs and in this thread you are discussing upgrading the OEM Sub location, so I guessing you dumped the (2 JL's for one 8" Alpine? Whats the story there?

2) In this thread you only have a photo of your Amps and not the section where the subs were, can you post a shot of your reworked OEM Sub location?

Since this thread kinda strayed from your initial post, I'm going to start a new thread with my upgrade thoughts, hopefully you can chime in there as well...
 
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