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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone had a diagram of the subwoofer enclosure on a 2020 passport. I was trying to take it apart to switch the sub and cannot get the thing apart. I took off the left nut and right screw but obviously I am missing something just don't know where. Thanks!
 

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There are 4 bolts holding the box to the floor (assuming EX-L or touring or Elite), two face down and come all the way out, the other bolts are welded to the floor and you just remove nuts on the long stems. Don't take out any screws, the enclosure top does not come off! Two bolts are easier to access, and two are tough on those long stems. I used a screwdriver with long extension and ratchet head. The speaker is on the bottom of the black plastic enclosure, so you MUST pull the box off the floor and disconnect the plug from the box. Then you can simply flip it and unscrew the sub if that is really your goal.

I will tell you, I tried a Skar Audio sub in that box and it was awful for being weak and bad response and a bit sloppy, and bad construction quality. I also tried a pricey Pioneer sub and it was awful for bad response and too resonant in high midbass in that stock enclosure. For dual 2 ohm, the stock sub is an excellent balance for the stock amp and the small sealed stock enclosure. It plays even and pretty low without shaking the enclosure to rattling. Remember that these stock components were designed to work well together as a system, they really are decent in this car. You could get a nicer driver and external amp, but that plastic enclosure is not braced enough for much more power and is tuned for even response from a low to mid power sub. If you try it, add grommets to the bolts to dampen the box, and dynamat the heck out of inside and out of the enclosure and add some Polyfil. I still don't know its a good way to go.

A MUCH better upgrade in my opinion would be to use a better add on speaker. I had an old Rockford P300-12" that I tossed in there, but it was huge space waster and boomy. I chanced the Rockford P300 8" Ported, which is only ~17.5 x 5 x 11.5" (can fit anywhere and remove easily) and with the stock sub still connected, together they sound very good, like a 12" but cleaner, and very adjustable with the gain remote on the Rockford. They won't sound like a high dollar Focal 13" or a JL 15" with a 1000W amp, but doesn't seem like you are after a massive thud heard down the block, and neither was I. The P300-8P really performs well for its size, I'm impressed for the size and price of it, and have had some very nice full custom and expensive systems in the past.

My opinion is the best upgrade for this vehicle without going all out for a huge expenditure on a full custom system is to upgrade door speakers with 3ohm coax or midrange drivers, and add something like the Rockford P300 8P which only requires a power wire, speaker tap, and ground wire to be run- can do in a couple hours yourself. Sound deadening with 25% coverage dynamat to metal, and mass loaded vinyl in the doors and under floormats will also make a massive quality difference even with stock everything. Pulling the ANC module will clear the mud out of the sub and will be required to add a second one, and also gets rid of the fake exhaust sound Honda plays subtly over the speakers.

There are several audio threads around here and one has my pictures.


 

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Wow, thank you. Very informative. Got a question, though. Why is it that the factory sub can handle the ACC being plugged in but an aftermarket sub cannot. And I even have the factory sub unplugged and those wires directly Going to a lc2i. And than that going to my amp and then from there to the sub. . But I still get a loud buzz when driving with the ACC plugged in
 

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Wow, thank you. Very informative. Got a question, though. Why is it that the factory sub can handle the ACC being plugged in but an aftermarket sub cannot. And I even have the factory sub unplugged and those wires directly Going to a lc2i. And than that going to my amp and then from there to the sub. . But I still get a loud buzz when driving with the ACC plugged in
The ANC module is plugged into the stereo and the stereo also monitors engine RPM. Two microphones listen to cabin and engine noise. This data is then sent to all factory speakers through the factory amp. That feedback system was all carefully matched to the stock sub- its exact phase, frequency response, load, etc.

Your added sub is not in perfect phase, and is not the same exact load and frequency response as the factory sub so this confuses the ANC module when it listens to your sub over the microphones. It thinks your sub is partially new cabin noise, and injects the wrong noise cancelling waveform to your add on sub trying to counter the noise. That is why the buzz. On this car, the ANC does practically nothing and disconnecting the plug is worth it. You also get rid of that fake exhaust noise they pump into the cabin.
 
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