[REALM]

01/16/23 EDIT: While the below worked for a period of time, the popping indeed returned.
I’ve tried everything at this point, cranked it down as tight as I can go by hand, dynamat, u-bolts plus front bolts, u-bolts only, spacers, etc. Nothing seems to work for long. It’s very annoying, so if anyone finds a better fix I’m all ears.

**

Someone else on the board posted they wrapped their skid plate with a sound deadening mat, so I gave it a go, and so far it has eliminated the insane popping I was getting.

I bought dynomat, as have used it before in other applications and it’s supposed to withstand heat well, and insulates the metal all around to prevent the metal on metal rubbing, and so far so good. We’ll see if it holds.

Pic attached:

 

[PNWGarageDad]

Were any of the bolts loose on the skid plate when you took it off for the dynomat?

 

[REALM]

Were any of the bolts loose on the skid plate when you took it off for the dynomat?

Negative, as I actually recently tightened everything down trying to stop the popping as had gotten so annoying. It definitely gets worse as the bolts get looser, but even tightened all the way the thing was still popping in parking lots.
We'll see if it holds over time, but so far it's been fantastic driving around town and parking lots.

 

[Bailey]

Which skid plate is this? JSport or NoLo?

 

[REALM]

No lo skid plate… and so far after a lot of driving the no popping liner continues to hold nicely. Makes it more enjoyable to drive and less embarrassing in parking lots.

 

[REALM]

Update…
The popping sound returned with a vengeance. It was so bad even my wife was asking what the crap was happening. I couldn’t park or do anything without a ton of popping.

I tried tightening everything back down, no luck, still popping.
I tried it with U-bolts plus front bolts, but still popping.
I tried it with U-bolts only and no front bolts, still popping.

Then today I took the skid plate off completely, drove around, and popping 100% gone in all conditions.
Definitely the skid plate.

Then I tried loosening the subframe, all 4 bolts, not just the back 2, repositioned the skid plate, added spacers in between the skid plate and the rear subframe, as mine never came with spacers though some seem to mention they did. Then cranked everything down.

This so far has resulted in no popping at all again, but like above we’ll see what happens in time over the next month or so.

 

[JLH]

Update…
The popping sound returned with a vengeance. It was so bad even my wife was asking what the crap was happening. I couldn’t park or do anything without a ton of popping.

I tried tightening everything back down, no luck, still popping.
I tried it with U-bolts plus front bolts, but still popping.
I tried it with U-bolts only and no front bolts, still popping.

Then today I took the skid plate off completely, drove around, and popping 100% gone in all conditions.
Definitely the skid plate.

Then I tried loosening the subframe, all 4 bolts, not just the back 2, repositioned the skid plate, added spacers in between the skid plate and the rear subframe, as mine never came with spacers though some seem to mention they did. Then cranked everything down.

This so far has resulted in no popping at all again, but like above we’ll see what happens in time over the next month or so.

Just a wandering thought from an old fart here. Would cutting & installing a piece of rubber gasket between the skid plate & whatever it mounts to, possibly help with the popping? Or is that what you're talking about when you said you added spacers between the skid plate & the rear frame? It's relatively inexpensive & you could adhere it to the skid plate with gasket cement or good caulk like Lexel.
Amazon.com: TORRAMI Rubber Gasket Sheet Material 1/8 (.125) Inch T X 3 inch W X 10 Feet, for Sealing,Protection, Abrasion, Supports, Leveling, Bumpers : Industrial & Scientific

 

[REALM]

Just a wandering thought from an old fart here. Would cutting & installing a piece of rubber gasket between the skid plate & whatever it mounts to, possibly help with the popping? Or is that what you're talking about when you said you added spacers between the skid plate & the rear frame? It's relatively inexpensive & you could adhere it to the skid plate with gasket cement or good caulk like Lexel.
Amazon.com: TORRAMI Rubber Gasket Sheet Material 1/8 (.125) Inch T X 3 inch W X 10 Feet, for Sealing,Protection, Abrasion, Supports, Leveling, Bumpers : Industrial & Scientific

A little of both… the Dynamat I put on above covering the whole thing is a thin piece of rubber maybe 1/8” thick, but that ultimately didn’t work. The spacers I used were a combination of metal washers and thick rubber washers in the rear. I didn’t think of putting a rubber washer on the front U-bolt nuts, so if it comes back I’ll try that as well. Thanks!

 

[DudeCS]

A little of both… the Dynamat I put on above covering the whole thing is a thin piece of rubber maybe 1/8” thick, but that ultimately didn’t work. The spacers I used were a combination of metal washers and thick rubber washers in the rear. I didn’t think of putting a rubber washer on the front U-bolt nuts, so if it comes back I’ll try that as well. Thanks!

You should use solid metal spacers and washers for the front and rear bolt locations. That is, best to have a rigid connection.

For the 2 rear bolts, this was my solution.

For the 4 front bolts, my skid plate came with aluminum spaces that pressed through the plastic shroud when tightened. I do not currently have the length of the aluminum spacers. I added fender washer on both sides of the skid plate, as well.

 

[REALM]

Edited OP with latest update, of the popping returned, sigh.

 

[DudeCS]

Edited OP with latest update, of the popping returned, sigh.

A few things to investigate...

• Do you have aluminum or metal spacers for the 4 front bolts? My spacers will press through the plastic shroud and butt against the metal frame when the bolts are tightened. I'll have to measure my spacer the next time I pull off the skidplate.
• For the 4 front bolt and 2 rear bolt locations, consider cutting the Dynamat from the skidplate for the fender washer or spacer? That is, the Dynamat may be compressing over time. A solid metal connection all the way to the frame is best.
• Apply non-permanent thread locker (aka Loctite blue) to the bolts if they are loosening.

Hope that you are able to resolve your problem.

 

[PNWGarageDad]

Wonder why No Lo hasn't commented on a fix for this issue. 🤔

 

[SC_PSTS]

Anyone find a fix for this before I decide on which skid plate to go with?