We installed the cross bars on our Pilot and our Passport ourselves. The Pilot was a lot easier to install, no issues. The Passport was more challenging since it was a tighter fit and actually ended up leaving scratches in the paint on the inside of the rails they attach to as we slid them into place. No big deal, we got some touch up paint and fixed it. I think the Passport cross shouldn't have been as tight as they were, the Pilot cross bars installed so much easier. Definitely worth the cost savings.
Roof rails self-install
New Passport owner and forum member here! I just moved up from a Forester, which had factory-installed roof rails on it, to an EX-L which does not. I've found this handy little PDF guide from College Hills Honda but I was wondering if anyone had installed roof rails on their vehicle yet? I am interested in saving a little money because having them installed at the dealership costs about $820 for parts and labor, whereas the part itself looks to be under $400.
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I installed the rails and crossbars my self using the instructions printed from College Hills Honda. I cut the roof trim by hand with a hand metal saw. It was time consuming but I suggest taking your time with the measurements and cutting. It was definitely worth doing. Make sure you have the proper torx bits for the job. Also, pull the roof trim gently side to side and not front to back as you will bend the trim and it will show. I also purchased the parts on eBay cheaper than from College Hills. My local dealers refused to price match and only offered full retail.
@ADVAZ
A quick question: how did you remove the original roof trim? The College Hills instructions only clearly show the case where there is a plastic cap on the trim covering a nut that you then loosen to start the removal process. My PP doesn't have this. I'm assuming you just gently lever the strip up using trim tools, but am curious as to how you did it.
Also, how long did the process take, start to finish?
TIA
GG
A quick question: how did you remove the original roof trim? The College Hills instructions only clearly show the case where there is a plastic cap on the trim covering a nut that you then loosen to start the removal process. My PP doesn't have this. I'm assuming you just gently lever the strip up using trim tools, but am curious as to how you did it.
Also, how long did the process take, start to finish?
TIA
GG
See this thread.@ADVAZ
A quick question: how did you remove the original roof trim? The College Hills instructions only clearly show the case where there is a plastic cap on the trim covering a nut that you then loosen to start the removal process. My PP doesn't have this. I'm assuming you just gently lever the strip up using trim tools, but am curious as to how you did it.
Also, how long did the process take, start to finish?
TIA
GG
Hmmm..Thanks for the link, but I that isn't what I mean. I don't have the roof rails installed yet. I am trying to figure out the best way to pry up the factory roof trim:
![4587]()
Start at the front? Start at the rear? Pry up and towards the rear of the car? Work from the outside in?
It's probably scary easy once the initial fastener has popped. I just want to make sure that I don't damage anything that needs to be reused.
TIA
GG
Start at the front? Start at the rear? Pry up and towards the rear of the car? Work from the outside in?
It's probably scary easy once the initial fastener has popped. I just want to make sure that I don't damage anything that needs to be reused.
TIA
GG
Have you already download the install instructions? Using plastic pry tools will prevent damage to the paint.
Attachments
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Thanks - yes, I have these. I reviewed them and they aren't clear on how to proceed if the plastic cap referenced in Step 2 is missing.
How did this turn out? Looking to do this at some point in the near future. My EX-L looks naked without at least the rails.
"If the roof molding is equipped with a plastic cap, go to step 2; otherwise, go to step 4. "Thanks - yes, I have these. I reviewed them and they aren't clear on how to proceed if the plastic cap referenced in Step 2 is missing.
i thought they all came with them, guess not in the usa
i wish mine dint have them will never use them
i wish mine dint have them will never use them
How did it go ? This is the next access. on my list to do ...
Still on the to-do list. Probably won't tackle it until the end of the month at this point. 
im thinking of removing mine
will never use them and makes it a PITA to remove snow off the roof.
looks like i need trim and possible clips if different from the
ones used with the rails.
will never use them and makes it a PITA to remove snow off the roof.
looks like i need trim and possible clips if different from the
ones used with the rails.
And here's the definitive DIY for the Passport on YouTube. Many thanks to Mr. Dean for documenting:
Tackled today. 60 minutes for the first side, 30 for the second. I'm guessing an experienced Honda tech with the right tools and a good-sized workspace could take it down to 20.
Key learnings:
GG
Tackled today. 60 minutes for the first side, 30 for the second. I'm guessing an experienced Honda tech with the right tools and a good-sized workspace could take it down to 20.
Key learnings:
- Trim tools help and will avoid scratches. I have an ancient kit that is very similar to this one: Kit Spend the $10. You can use it for everything after you've finished the rails...interior panels, radio surrounds, etc. Even it you don't ever use it again, pay the money to avoid scratching your paint.
- I purchased an air saber saw, as I'm a tool geek: Saw. If you have a sawzall (what's in the video), it'll work, though it'll be a rough cut. That said, the cut doesn't have to be pretty, just roughly straight
- When prying up the roof trim, start with the back and work your way forward. Once all the retaining clips are loose, gently slide the trim forward to release it from the rear hinge cover.
- The usual caveat: measure twice, cut once.
- Be smart and don't overtorque the torx fasteners. Snapping off a mounting bolt could ruin your day.
- Warning for those of you buying from Bernardi or College Hills or another web source: there are a bunch of pieces with small plastic tabs on them, and they're packed in loosely with heavy metal rails. Shipping can be rough on these. I lost a couple of tabs for the rear covers, but they did not affect functionality. However, Mr. Dean had one of his small mid-rail covers lose a tab and it ruined it (see end of video) Not a big deal (it's probably a $5 part), but something to keep in mind when ordering online. Check the parts when they arrive.
GG
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