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So there’s two black wires on one connector?

It looks like one is for the auto idle stop ground and the other is for the terrain switch ground. The yellow wire shows to be the signal wire back to the gauge control module. What voltage do you show at the yellow wire with the switch connected?

***On the pilot the green wire had 12v (ignition power) and the yellow wire (signal wire back to gauge control module) needed the 12v for auto idle stop to be OFF. The switch connected these two circuits when pressed. This is why on the pilot you had to connect those two wires.
I did NOT take a voltage reading on the Yellow wire....
So, are you saying I may just need to permanently ground that Black wire that's in the port where the Pilots Green wire is???
 

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I did NOT take a voltage reading on the Yellow wire....
So, are you saying I may just need to permanently ground that Black wire that's in the port where the Pilots Green wire is???
The black wire is already permanently grounded as it runs to G405, which will be a chassis ground somewhere. I’m curious about the voltage running to the yellow wire though, if it has 12v with the ignition on, connector connected; then it should just need to be grounded for the gauge control module to get its signal, and the auto idle stop should go OFF.
 

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The black wire is already permanently grounded as it runs to G405, which will be a chassis ground somewhere. I’m curious about the voltage running to the yellow wire though, if it has 12v with the ignition on, connector connected; then it should just need to be grounded for the gauge control module to get its signal, and the auto idle stop should go OFF.
I just didn't think to check the amount of voltage at the yellow wire...but I did connect the yellow wire to that black wire...The "A" would light up on the dash but only for a moment each time you cycled the ignition on...I also checked the switch for continuity, I hooked the ohm meter to the yellow switch blade and the only other switch blade that had continuity to that yellow blade was that black one...larryd
 

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I just didn't think to check the amount of voltage at the yellow wire...but I did connect the yellow wire to that black wire...The "A" would light up on the dash but only for a moment each time you cycled the ignition on...I also checked the switch for continuity, I hooked the ohm meter to the yellow switch blade and the only other switch blade that had continuity to that yellow blade was that black one...larryd
I take it when you connected the yellow and black you did this with the vehicle on by back probing with the connector plugged in, not unplugged right?

Ultimately the goal is going to be having 12v ignition power at the yellow wire so check each terminal for 12v by back probing the connector, when you find a 12v ignition source you should be able to run a jumper wire back probing the yellow and the12v terminals.
 

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I take it when you connected the yellow and black you did this with the vehicle on by back probing with the connector plugged in, not unplugged right?

Ultimately the goal is going to be having 12v ignition power at the yellow wire so check each terminal for 12v by back probing the connector, when you find a 12v ignition source you should be able to run a jumper wire back probing the yellow and the12v terminals.
When I tried this I had the Yellow & Black wires removed from the white plug...The white plug was then plugged back into the switch without the Yellow & Black wires in the white connector plug...I had a jumper connecting the Yellow & Black wires that were removed from the white plug...

The next calm day in my life I will remove the switch console (which takes less than 2 minutes) and check the voltage on the yellow wire...If I remember correctly I also had ign. voltage on the blue wire...

Will report back...

THANK YOU, larryd
 

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Not to distract here...but I like the idle off as I use it on my normal roads when I know I’m going to be sitting for several minutes. What’s bugging the living crap out of me is when I park. I’m not thinking about light pressure at the time so I press the brake with the force you normally would when about to put in park. It shuts off and I instinctively lift my foot off the brake as I go to hit the button to turn it off. It immediately restarts only to have me turn it off a split second later! Grit my teeth annoying!
 

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I talked to a techy guy today about eliminating the auto start stop feature...He thinks its doable...He is going to look into it...If and when I ever hear back or get it figured out I will report back...

I should have my VCM Tuner installed on my 2018 Ridgeline and our 2019 Passport this weekend...
 

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I believe the way the ASS is switched off is that by pushing the button, which is a ground side switch, the control module gets 12v signal after the engine is started that tells control module software to turn ASS off. So, I think what's needed is to connect the yellow wire to another ground side switched circuit that gets energized once the engine is running. This should send the required 12v signal to the control module subsequent to engine starting which is what the system is looking for. I was able to purchase a devise for my Wrangler that essentially does this. It plugs in series with the ASS button and sends a signal momentarily after the engine starts. Does this make sense to you?
 

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I believe the way the ASS is switched off is that by pushing the button, which is a ground side switch, the control module gets 12v signal after the engine is started that tells control module software to turn ASS off. So, I think what's needed is to connect the yellow wire to another ground side switched circuit that gets energized once the engine is running. This should send the required 12v signal to the control module subsequent to engine starting which is what the system is looking for. I was able to purchase a devise for my Wrangler that essentially does this. It plugs in series with the ASS button and sends a signal momentarily after the engine starts. Does this make sense to you?
Let me restate what you said and add my description. The ASS is controlled by the control module. The input of the control module for the ASS is looking for a transition from +12v to 0v AFTER the engine is started and this input is the yellow wire. When you push the ASS disable button, it grounds the yellow wire forcing it to 0v thus signaling the control module to disable the ASS. So to emulate this action, a +12v source while the engine is running must be found. A relay circuit could be used with it to emulate you pressing the button.
 

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Let me restate what you said and add my description. The ASS is controlled by the control module. The input of the control module for the ASS is looking for a transition from +12v to 0v AFTER the engine is started and this input is the yellow wire. When you push the ASS disable button, it grounds the yellow wire forcing it to 0v thus signaling the control module to disable the ASS. So to emulate this action, a +12v source while the engine is running must be found. A relay circuit could be used with it to emulate you pressing the button.

Not sure a 12v source is needed but rather a ground to complete the circuit. Since 12v is "present" on the yellow wire (which is my understanding from the description in the dialogue - the 12volts is provided by the control module) pushing the button grounds completes the circuit, via grounding through the black wire, and the control module gets a 12v signal. The 12v signal tells the control module to turn off ASS. Providing a ground once the vehicle starts in a way that doesn't require pushing the button should accomplish the goal of sending a 12v signal to the module. The device I have wired in series on my Wrangler is a logic board that automatically closes the circuit a few seconds after the engine starts hence accomplishing the goal of sending a 12v signal.
 

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The Passport uses the same wiring system as the 2019+ Pilot. Which is different than the 2017-2018 Pilot using the green and yellow wiring. Check out the post by Chipworkz on a timer circuit at Piloteers.org. For the Passport go to post #20 for the wiring. You need a switched +12 volt source, not sure if the Passport has a Console Accessory Power Socket that the Pilot has. You may need to run a wire from the fuse box or front accessory power socket. Just make sure you install an inline fuse.

 

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I have a passport and I hate the auto engine stop. I think Honda should make the feature where you can turn it on if you want it.
 

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I couldn't agree more. I hate it too and always turn it off on every start. I keep reading about all the gas I'm wasting. BS. Research how much a car burns at idle. We're not gonna loose the planet cause I shut off auto engine start/stop.
 

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I couldn't agree more. I hate it too and always turn it off on every start. I keep reading about all the gas I'm wasting. BS. Research how much a car burns at idle. We're not gonna loose the planet cause I shut off auto engine start/stop.
Multiply millions of autos shutting down at stoplights and the gas saved will add up.
Another advantage is less pollution during this event.

Turn if off if it bothers you; I find it unobtrusive.
 

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There is a "plug & play" fix in the works...Just not sure how soon it will be available....Stand by...
larryd
 

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I couldn't agree more. I hate it too and always turn it off on every start. I keep reading about all the gas I'm wasting. BS. Research how much a car burns at idle. We're not gonna loose the planet cause I shut off auto engine start/stop.
I don't think it's as much of a 'gas saving' issue but rather an emissions saving issue. With that being said, I bought an SUV so I'm not clearly not super interested in that either, but I have gotten used to it. I really only turn it off during traffic jams on the freeway. I'm not interested in having my vehicle decide not to start back up on the freeway during rush hour because of this feature.
 
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