Oil change with skid plate on?

2524 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by HarveyW, 11 mo ago

REALM

Discussion Starter · 11 mo ago

Do you have to remove the No-lo front skid plate to do an oil change? It doesn’t look like it to me, but the reason I ask…

Had Honda dealer change my oil earlier this week with an appointment.

It took 4 hours for just oil change and tire rotation.

I just noticed one of my skid plate u-bolts is totally broken off, nuts and all. I can’t be 100% sure the dealer did it, but I haven’t done anything but drive on the road lately and I know it was on there last week.

I’m curious if the dealer would have removed the skid plate at all. Either way I’m not saying anything or going back there, it took way too long, but curious for future oil change reference. I could do it myself, but didn’t find the $ savings worth the pain.

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Moviepass

· #2 · 11 mo ago (Edited)

No, but it could be messy.

I suspect they tried doing the oil change without removing the plate, but the 0W-20 oil made a huge mess and they couldn’t send you home with oil dripping all over your skid plate.

I did my first oil change with the plate on and the recommended 0W oil is extremely thin compared even to 5W that I’m used to, and the no-lo access port is almost too small for a perfect flow. Just my thoughts!

P.S. I’ve taken my passport off-road quite a bit and snagged the bolts on a few rocks, never coming close to sheering the bolt completely off so don’t think that’s what happened to yours.

Reactions: 2

jasonpp

· #3 · 11 mo ago

You can suck it out of the dipstick tube tho. A lot of people do it that way to avoid getting under but the oil filter is a pain on the passport, if you don't want to get under, you are going have to take the wheel off.

jb1720

· #4 · 11 mo ago

I drain the oil through the dipstick for all my cars and my (Honda) lawn mower. Pain free and clean! Also, removing the filter is a snap; just turn the wheel and reach in and loosen. It helps if a K&N filter is used with the wrench point at the bottom, but long arms help.

PNWGarageDad

· #5 · 11 mo ago (Edited)

Have you had a chance to pull off the skid plate and inspect? If the ubolt was broken, must have created some damage/marks somewhere. I wonder if the skid plate is warped or what that cross member looks like. How many miles between the ubolt install and the oil change.

REALM

Discussion Starter · #6 · 11 mo ago

Haven’t pulled the skid plate and u-bolt yet as was waiting for the replacement u-bolt kit to come in first. So probably this weekend will get to see. There was maybe 2,000 miles between the u-bolt install and oil change.

HarveyW

· #7 · 11 mo ago

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PNWGarageDad

· #8 · 11 mo ago

I would think in those 2k miles if something was wrong with the ubolts you would have heard some type of bad undercarriage noise.

Only way I can think of the ubolts breaking off, while the vehicle was on the lift , skid plate rear bolts removed and some azzho hanging on the skid plate.

I just can't think of any other way for the ubolts to get snapped off and since the vehicle has not been off road.

Reactions: 2

Moviepass

· #9 · 11 mo ago

If you ever need more in a pinch, these are good to go 👍 Everbilt #327

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Everbilt 5/16 in. x 2-7/16 in. x 3-1/2 in. Coarse Zinc-Plated #327 U-Bolt 806846 - The Home Depot

Designed to be installed through pre-drilled holes, these U-Bolts have 2 threaded arms that keep the bolt firmly in place. Perfect for attaching piping, conduit or other cylindrical items.

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REALM

Discussion Starter · #10 · 11 mo ago

Well now I’m even more frustrated… I don’t know what the dealer did as it’s not hard to remove the skid plate if you need to, I’ve done it, but would say they messed up.

Not only did they strip off one of the U-bolts which I could see, but when I went to replace the other u-bolt and take the other bolts off I noticed they also:
1) Tightened the other U-bolts to where they aren’t coming off without breaking off the U-bolt
2) Looks like they cross-threaded the rear skid plate bolt as it’s not even in all the way, and is screwed in at an angle. I’m scared to mess with it for fear I won’t even be able to thread the bolt back into the subframe maybe

When I have more time I’ll get it up on ramps and try to fix it, but looks like at minimum I’m going to have to:
1) Break off the other U-bolt to get it off
2) Remove the rear skid plate bolt and pray it’s not cross-threaded
3) Replace the U-bolt kit with the new one I bought

I have 0 way to prove the dealer did it so not going to make a fuss, but this tells me that’s why it took 4 hours for a simple oil change and tire rotation with a scheduled appointment. No one else has worked on my vehicle since then, and I know for 100% I didn’t screw the rear skid plate bolt half way in at an angle like they have it.

My bet is they tried to put an impact gun on it and was careless as those bolts are insanely tight and threaded in there. With all the labor turnover, perhaps it was a newbie.

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HarveyW

· #11 · 11 mo ago

REALM said:
Well now I’m even more frustrated… I don’t know what the dealer did as it’s not hard to remove the skid plate if you need to, I’ve done it, but would say they messed up.

Not only did they strip off one of the U-bolts which I could see, but when I went to replace the other u-bolt and take the other bolts off I noticed they also:
1) Tightened the other U-bolts to where they aren’t coming off without breaking off the U-bolt
2) Looks like they cross-threaded the rear skid plate bolt as it’s not even in all the way, and is screwed in at an angle. I’m scared to mess with it for fear I won’t even be able to thread the bolt back into the subframe maybe

When I have more time I’ll get it up on ramps and try to fix it, but looks like at minimum I’m going to have to:
1) Break off the other U-bolt to get it off
2) Remove the rear skid plate bolt and pray it’s not cross-threaded
3) Replace the U-bolt kit with the new one I bought

I have 0 way to prove the dealer did it so not going to make a fuss, but this tells me that’s why it took 4 hours for a simple oil change and tire rotation with a scheduled appointment. No one else has worked on my vehicle since then, and I know for 100% I didn’t screw the rear skid plate bolt half way in at an angle like they have it.

My bet is they tried to put an impact gun on it and was careless as those bolts are insanely tight and threaded in there. With all the labor turnover, perhaps it was a newbie.

This...... Jun 29, 2022 and add this....

Jersey Sleeve Trunks Collar Sportswear

Problem solved, easy peasy, no muss, no fuss and no mess. Drains right through the cutout on the skid plate.

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REALM

Discussion Starter · #12 · 11 mo ago

Yeah I think I’ll indeed go with the Fumoto and just go back to changing my own oil. Could be worse, but just a pain someone shouldn’t have to deal with for what the dealership charges.

Reactions: 1

fx_chip

· #13 · 11 mo ago

HarveyW said:
F106SX: Position Adjustable Oil Drain Valve with M14-1.5

The new Fumoto Fumoto® SX-series can be rotated 360° when it is installed, allowing you to choose the position and the oil flow direction for a smaller profile and easier access for maximum protection and further convenience oil drainage.

www.fumotousa.com

F316L - Elbow Joint Oil Drain Valve 14mm-1.5 | FUMOTO

The L-type Fumoto Oil Drain Valve has a 360 degree rotational capability, detachable elbow joint. This allows for connecting a hose at every angle. The position of the elbow joint can be fixed by adjusting the nut between the valve and the joint.

www.fumotousa.com

Do you have any pictures of these installed on a Passport? How much does it protrude downward under the oil pan and is it likely to snag on something when off road?

HarveyW

· #14 · 11 mo ago

www.passportforums.com

Oil Valve installed Fumoto oil valve

I installed the Fumoto oil drain valve (F106N), the one inch adapter (ADL-106 M14-1.5), a Honda OEM 94109-14000 washer, as well as some Permatex 82180 Oil Resistant Black Gasket Maker. The Gasket Maker instructions say to remove as much oil residue as possible before applying, let it set up for...

www.passportforums.com

www.passportforums.com

Reactions: 1

REALM

Discussion Starter · #15 · 11 mo ago

Update… I took the skid plate off and see they definitely removed the whole thing, because they replaced it with the plastic trim in the front over the skid plate, and I always mount the skid plate over the plastic trim.

In addition, they must have used an impact wrench to tighten these down because the nuts were on so tight my impact wouldn’t loosen the u-bolt nuts at all. I had to use a breaker bar and break the whole U-bolt off. The rear subframe bolt they cross threaded it at an angle and that’s the only way it fits on now, sigh.

It could be worse, glad I got it fixed and new u-bolts on, but not going back to the dealer for anything.

PNWGarageDad

· #16 · 11 mo ago

I feel your pain with a shop doing bad work, been there multiple times.
You could buy a tap and clean up those threads and you will be good to go. Happy July 4th!

HarveyW

· #17 · 11 mo ago

REALM said:
Update… I took the skid plate off and see they definitely removed the whole thing, because they replaced it with the plastic trim in the front over the skid plate, and I always mount the skid plate over the plastic trim.

In addition, they must have used an impact wrench to tighten these down because the nuts were on so tight my impact wouldn’t loosen the u-bolt nuts at all. I had to use a breaker bar and break the whole U-bolt off. The rear subframe bolt they cross threaded it at an angle and that’s the only way it fits on now, sigh.

It could be worse, glad I got it fixed and new u-bolts on, but not going back to the dealer for anything.

Sounds like a bad dealer/service dept. When I got my Fumoto and the jSport skid plate, the dealer installed both, torqued to spec, when they did the first oil change at no charge. They were actually happy to put on the Fumoto as the dealership gave me three years of service when I bought the vehicle and it makes their life easier at this point.

Reactions: 1

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