NLD Skid Plate Install - 2022 Passport Trailsport

3344 Views 44 Replies 14 Participants Last post by ballisticexchris, 1 mo ago

sliver_surfer

Discussion Starter · 8 mo ago (Edited)

5

Installed No Lo Designs (NLD) Skid Plates on my 2022 Passport Trailsport - like the additional protection even for road hazards...

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Sound deadening and rattle prevention applied...

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Front skid plate installed.

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Mid and catalytic converter skid plates installed. The mid skid plate is significantly beefier than the stock one...

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Gas tank skid plate...

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Rear differential skid plate.

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SC_PSTS

· #21 · 2 mo ago

Any solution been found for this? Interested in getting skid plates but don’t want noises

REALM

· #22 · 2 mo ago

It’s not really a solution, but I just resigned to carrying a 14mm wrench in my glovebox, and whenever the popping sound returns I get out and crank the U-bolt nuts down nearly as tight as it will go. Depending on the weather and other random factors, sometimes it will go weeks before loosening up, other times less. The few things I’m certain about with mine however is:

1) It’s 100% definitely the skid plate that makes my popping in parking lots. I’ve taken the skid plate off more than one time to test the theory, and every time it only pops with the skid plate on.
2) The U-bolt kit was a must for mine, as with the standard hardware kit they send with the 4 bolts in the front, I couldn’t eliminate the popping sound for the life of me no matter how tight I went. And because those 4 bolts are little 10mm and weaker, one of them I snapped clean off. U-bolt kit has allowed me to tighten it way tighter.
3) My local dealership has no idea how to remove and reinstall aftermarket skid plates on the Passport. They took it off for an oil change and put it back on, cross threading one of the rear bolts which is now permanently screwed and only goes in at an angle. I change my own oil now… with the skid plate on.

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penzance

· #23 · 2 mo ago

REALM said:
1) It’s 100% definitely the skid plate that makes my popping in parking lots. I’ve taken the skid plate off more than one time to test the theory, and every time it only pops with the skid plate on.
2) The U-bolt kit was a must for mine, as with the standard hardware kit they send with the 4 bolts in the front, I couldn’t eliminate the popping sound for the life of me no matter how tight I went. And because those 4 bolts are little 10mm and weaker, one of them I snapped clean off. U-bolt kit has allowed me to tighten it way tighter.
3) My local dealership has no idea how to remove and reinstall aftermarket skid plates on the Passport. They took it off for an oil change and put it back on, cross threading one of the rear bolts which is now permanently screwed and only goes in at an angle. I change my own oil now… with the skid plate on.

Since the function of a skidplate is for undercarriage protection, but not to increase chassis rigidity, your trial changes (remove/reinstall) demonstrate that the noise is likely due to the flexing of the skidplate metal itself.
Perhaps consider further isolating the skidplate instead of tightening it up, so that the skid plate is allowed to slightly shift position instead of forcing it to flex??
Instead of direct bolt-to-skidplate-to-chassis connections, makes me wonder if enlarging to bolt hole in the skid plate and installing a grommet style washer into the enlarged hole might reduce or solve the issue. That may allow skidplate to slightly flex, but isolate it from the chassis enough to reduce noise transfer.

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Skidplate would still be secure, just now it could allow some movement without binding.

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DudeCS

· #24 · 2 mo ago

penzance said:
Since the function of a skidplate is for undercarriage protection, but not to increase chassis rigidity, your trial changes (remove/reinstall) demonstrate that the noise is likely due to the flexing of the skidplate metal itself.
Perhaps consider further isolating the skidplate instead of tightening it up, so that the skid plate is allowed to slightly shift position instead of forcing it to flex??
Instead of direct bolt-to-skidplate-to-chassis connections, makes me wonder if enlarging to bolt hole in the skid plate and installing a grommet style washer into the enlarged hole might reduce or solve the issue. That may allow skidplate to slightly flex, but isolate it from the chassis enough to reduce noise transfer.

Skidplate would still be secure, just now it could allow some movement without binding.

I believe that your suggestion will make the situation worst. Tightening the bolts eliminates the creaks (per @REALM) which is opposite to your suggestion. The two rear bolt locations secures an existing structural member to the frame. With a skidplate installed and securely bolted (direct connection, solid metal spacers in my case), it further increases front structural rigidity. I notice a difference in structural rigidity handling with and without a skidplate installed.

SC_PSTS

· #25 · 2 mo ago

Anyone experience this with the JSPORTUSA Front Skid?

DudeCS

· #26 · 2 mo ago

SC_PSTS said:
Anyone experience this with the JSPORTUSA Front Skid?

I have the JSport, but I believe that NO-LO install is similar. So, similar issues unless you have rigid connections and torque the bolts tight.

SC_PSTS

· #27 · 2 mo ago

DudeCS said:
I have the JSport, but I believe that NO-LO install is similar. So, similar issues unless you have rigid connections and torque the bolts tight.

So are you experiencing these issues?

4mm

· #28 · 2 mo ago

On the Tundra Pro trucks, it was determined that the noise some trucks were exhibiting was not the front suspension as many thought but the factory aftermarket TRD engine skid plate.
Just an FYI.

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ballisticexchris

· #29 · 2 mo ago

Ian sent me solid spacers included with my kit for the rear mounting point of skid plate. I also laid a narrow strip of sound deadening material across the very back where it meets crossmember. It's not perfect but helps to keep it pretty quiet unless I am really flexing and lifting a wheel.

The reality with metal skid plates is there is no perfect solution for deadening the creaks/clunks/resonating. It's just a compromise you have to adjust to.

DudeCS

· #30 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

SC_PSTS said:
So are you experiencing these issues?

The original hardware that came with my skid plate did not have solid spacers for the rear. See one of my previous post on how I added fender washers and a nut as a spacer. Since doing so, my skid plate does not creak or pop.

@SC_PSTS , This post: Skid Plate

Reactions: 3

REALM

· #31 · 2 mo ago

@DudeCS ... so I'm not the only one who notices more structural rigidity with the skid plate installed. The whole suspension definitely seems tighter... I thought perhaps it was just my imagination, but perhaps not. Noticed it more after I moved from 4 bolts in front to the U-bolt kit.

Reactions: 1

PNWGarageDad

· #32 · 2 mo ago

At the time when I purchased my skid plate, it came with two nylon spacers for the rear. I reached out to no- Lo and stated to remove the nylon spacers. I did that about a week ago and thus far no noise. 🤞

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ballisticexchris

· #33 · 2 mo ago

PNWGarageDad said:
At the time when I purchased my skid plate, it came with two nylon spacers for the rear. I reached out to no- Lo and stated to remove the nylon spacers. I did that about a week ago and thus far no noise. 🤞

Yes Ian changed out the nylon spacers for aluminum ones provided in the recent kits.

PNWGarageDad

· #34 · 2 mo ago

ballisticexchris said:
Yes Ian changed out the nylon spacers for aluminum ones provided in the recent kits.

Dang, I'm on his emailing list. I get the emails on the raffle tickets, which I participate in, due to a good cause, but no update on known product issues and fixes. Maybe he could sponsor someone here and they could keep us update with product development. 🤷‍♂️

Reactions: 1

SC_PSTS

· #35 · 2 mo ago

Reason why I ask is I want to go skid plates but don’t know what option to go with

Chef Duane

· #36 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

For anyone who has the No-Lo OR the JSport front skid plate installed... does the skid plate have to be removed to do an oil & filter change? I'm thinking I will for sure do the mid-skid and cat plates as I live in DFW and had my cat sawzalled out of my Explorer, but am not sure about the front skid plate. Thanks for any feedback.

REALM

· #37 · 1 mo ago

@Chef Duane … I’ve changed my oil once with the No-lo front skid plate on so far. I drove my front up on ramps so my car was at an angle. It created a terrible mess, oil running. All over the skid plate and dripping at different places all over the driveway. Doable, but messy on ramps.

I’m going to attempt it without ramps next time and see if that makes a difference. Worst case, there’s the Fumoto drain plug, which will be a potential Plan C.

Reactions: 1

DudeCS

· #38 · 1 mo ago

@Chef Duane ... Like @REALM, I tried changing my oil with my JSport skidplate on an it made a mess. The slot for accessing the drain plug is narrow. You need a open-end or box wrench to access the nut... a ratchet with socket will not fit. The pressure and flow of draining the oil cannot be contained through the slot. I now remove the skidplate for engine oil changes.

Reactions: 2

Chef Duane

· #39 · 1 mo ago

I think I'm going to forego the front skid plate for the time being. Thanks for the feedback. I've had the Fumoto valve on a couple of cars and while it is convenient (no hassle with drain plug bolt) it drains sooooooo sloooooowwwww.

Reactions: 1

PNWGarageDad

· #40 · 1 mo ago

Mitivac for the win!

Just need to lock down a method for changing the oil filter 😫.

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