[Newtopassport]

(Since I got a notification about revising an old thread, I'll do this instead in hopes some solutions have been found)

I'm new to the forum and the older thread had some posts addressing the issue with the Passport's ride. Don't mind a stiff ride. That is not the issue. It's the side-to-side extended wobble, especially at lower, around town driving speeds. I know it's a taller vehicle but have driven taller (truck) that was a more pleasant ride in that respect. I expect a reaction then a stop to the motion. This car kind of continues the wobble more than is desirable.

So, I'm wondering if anyone has been able to correct this issue?

The car isn't going anywhere. It fits its purpose to a T for a tall driver in the household losing some agility with age. But that person also thought aerobatics in airplanes were fun. (Didn't get woosy from them) This person also nixed a Mazda and the Passport was just easier to get in and out of and be comfortable driving than a Highlander. And we've been long time Honda owners

But others in the household get a bit seasick in it. We have other options and some can get by if driving it and being careful.

Don't like the stock tires and waiting for enough wear to change them out. I've read a lot about changing tire size for improving the ride but does it help with that side-to-side thing? Will a better tire (Thinking Michelin Cross Climate next time) help this?

Like I said, Passport isn't going anywhere for reasons stated above. That person loves the car. Just trying to improve the experience for other members of the household.

(And it is a dream on the freeway, very nice to drive)

 

[carpayments4life]

I don't understand what you mean by low speed side to side wobble.
One of the big gains, when using low profile 20" rims/tires is to reduce side to side movement in cornering.
You don't like the suspension and it seems that you haven't pin pointed what you have.
Does the SUV's shocks bounce and bounce and bounce?

 

[Newtopassport]

Different problem. Driving/cornering not an issue.

This is not a typical, worn out shocks, bounce, bounce, bounce, bounce. And I have experienced that in an older CRV we had to replace the shocks on- it would get into a kind of oscillation that made driving difficult.

When I say "low speed" it's the around town driving, over uneven roads, unavoidable dips, speed bumps. It will wobble left, right, left- then maybe it will steady up. It will also do a forward, back, forward thing before it settles down on the other axis.

On the highway, you rarely get too much of what causes that side to side motion. Roads better, for one thing.

I wonder if to "soften" it up, they went too far in a softer suspension? Dampening the bumps is one thing, side to side and forward and back movement is a bit much compared to other cars we've had.

The truck was quite a bit taller and didn't have that issue.

 

[PNWGarageDad]

Have you taken it to the dealership for warranty repair? What is the year and mileage?

 

[PowercatJeff]

Mine does this. I have tried to duplicate it by going over the same roads and can't. Always on a straight paved road and speeds under 40mph. Never at highway speeds. I can kind of duplicate by quickly moving the wheel back and forth maybe an inch or two each way. Just enough to wiggle the car. It's not exactly the same feeling but close. I getting down in the 30% oil life range so I will ask them to look into it. Mine is a 2020 Touring awd. I currently have 11000 mile on it.

 

[jasonpp]

It's just the softer swaybars allowing more side to side movement to help with offroad traction.

 

[storm303]

Have it checked to verify nothing is wrong. Most likely, not. The ride is deliberately a blend of comfortable and responsive. Compare to Highlander that is completely soft and mushy with very damped suspension. Honda tunes their suspensions to be quite responsive (you feel the road in most models). Add in the height of an SUV and no surprise there is some play; it may bother some very sensitive people.

If you get 18" or 17" wheels, the stiffness of the ride will soften slightly and the suspension will work slighlty less hard for small bumps but not much different for large ones. Doubt it will completely change for you. Depending on offset of your wheels, the scrub radius may change and the response of suspension may feel somewhat different with a wider stance. Again I don't expect a large difference.

For me, 18" gives a bit better ride and the suspension feel was slightly deadened.

I would suggest going to a dealership, and if nothing is wrong, go to a tire shop that will let you try some demo rims and wheels. All the combinations of sizes and sidewall could make your problem better, worse or the same. Good luck solving it, I wish there was an easy fix.

 

[Newtopassport]

Thanks for the replies. I wanted to find out if others experienced this and what a solution might be before talking to Honda service. Sometimes I get a good response and sometimes I feel like I get blown off.

Car has lots of interior room and for tall people it's pretty awesome. But yeah, if you tend to be a bit sensitive to side-to-side motion, not so much. Dealing with it but if one tweak would solve some of that I'm going to try to find it outside of something that would void the warranty.

 

[Tom_N_KS]

One possible cause could be the wind. The Passport has a pretty tall "sail area" and get blown around a bit, especially when the winds blow perpendicular to the road. I notice it at highway speeds but it seem the most pervasive when on single lane country roads at 45 to 55 mph. Good luck!

 

[OldSchool]

there’s a number of things that you can do to improve the situation to a certain extent & I have tried summer tires, which are great for turn in, but not much for body roll – which makes sense.

I also tow with my Passport, which has been a very positive experience, except for rear end squat. So I put a set of these in, and found that not only does it exponentially help towing, but it also helps body roll (both pitch and roll) quite a bit:

Sumo Springs CSS–1125

On Amazon they are about $150 a pair. I use same ones on both a ‘21 Passport & ‘19 Pilot

SuperSprings CSS-1125 | Coil SumoSprings for various applications | 1.25 inch inner wall height, black Amazon.com

can install yourself, I’ve heard stories of people having them installed anywhere from $200-$300

At somewhere between $500 - $600 all in, it’s hard to imagine anything you could do for less – AND it’s very easily reversible, which would be good if you were turning in or reselling.

 

[Newtopassport]

One possible cause could be the wind. The Passport has a pretty tall "sail area" and get blown around a bit, especially when the winds blow perpendicular to the road. I notice it at highway speeds but it seem the most pervasive when on single lane country roads at 45 to 55 mph. Good luck!

Actually, we had a recent trip on a single lane road with a lot of wind. But speeds over 60mph and 65 when we could. Funny thing is, it was better in that situation- and I was expecting worse. We also have an older CRV and it would have been more of a fight not to get blown around in the CRV.

I am wondering if that's when some of that power vectoring kicks in and if that's why it seems better at higher speeds.

 

[Newtopassport]

there’s a number of things that you can do to improve the situation to a certain extent & I have tried summer tires, which are great for turn in, but not much for body roll – which makes sense.

I also tow with my Passport, which has been a very positive experience, except for rear end squat. So I put a set of these in, and found that not only does it exponentially help towing, but it also helps body roll (both pitch and roll) quite a bit:

Sumo Springs CSS–1125

On Amazon they are about $150 a pair. I use same ones on both a ‘21 Passport & ‘19 Pilot

SuperSprings CSS-1125 | Coil SumoSprings for various applications | 1.25 inch inner wall height, black Amazon.com

can install yourself, I’ve heard stories of people having them installed anywhere from $200-$300

At somewhere between $500 - $600 all in, it’s hard to imagine anything you could do for less – AND it’s very easily reversible, which would be good if you were turning in or reselling.

Thanks for the information. Will run that by service. Just trying not to void a warranty.

We like the car and it fits it's purpose. And as I said before, it's pretty awesome at highway speeds.

 

[OldSchool]

Will run that by service. Just trying not to void a warranty.

If you need to “run it by service“, then with many dealers the only thing you’re going to be “allowed” to do is change tires.. & some possibly would tell you not even to do that.

Our approaches to this are different, & I completely respect that, but would say based on that you'll probably do best to just decide to live with it as is.. It’s great vehicle, but certainly not perfect.

 

[MacProCT]

Definitely try having the dealer look at it.... but first I would try increasing the tire pressures. I'd start by adding 2 pounds to what's listed on the tire pressure placard in the driver's door jamb. If it's still there, add another 2 pounds. See if there's a sweet spot where the car feels more stable, but doesn't ride too hard. (You don't want to add more than 4 or 5 pounds, because then you'll cause uneven tire wear.)

If the higher pressure and the dealer are not helpful, I would try the Sumo Springs that OldSchool mentioned. They are a clever design, do no harm, are easily removed, and don't cost much.

 

[OldSchool]

this

..I would try increasing the tire pressures. I'd start by adding 2 pounds to what's listed on the tire pressure placard in the driver's door jamb. If it's still there, add another 2 pounds.

⬆ THIS! ⬆

And, it's free to try.

I realize I'm a daredevil, but I actually run 40psi all around on the OEM A/S tires. (sidewall max = 44) No weird wear @15k, & I notice improvements more in sidewall flex on turn-in more than anything.

and again - FREE - making it the best 1st thing to try on here yet.

PS: with 4 Hondas currently btw my wife kids & I from ranging 2018-2021 all purchased new - the OEM tires have NOT been their strongest attributes, to say the least..

 

[MacProCT]

I realize I'm a daredevil, but I actually run 40psi all around on the OEM A/S tires. (sidewall max = 44) No weird wear @15k, & I notice improvements more in sidewall flex on turn-in more than anything.

Glad to hear it's been an improvement and no tire wear problem as of yet. Over the decades I've run most of my cars with higher pressures than the placard, because I like the greater stability.

 

[Newtopassport]

Had the car at the dealer for another issue and asked them to check the side-to-side wobble. As expected, "normal."
However, what MacProCT suggested about tire inflation was suggested by another service rep and the tires were aired up about max. May have helped a little. It was also suggested to put more of a LT/AT tire on it with the idea that the sidewalls would be stiffer.(More plys) Game for that if handling is not adversely affected. Game as well for the Sumo Springs.

I asked in another thread and this may sound crazy, but have those who switched to 18" tires and more sidewall found more or less side-to-side? Not for a softer ride but to damp down the body bounce side-to-side? Rep thought more sidewall would increase it but I'm wondering if more of the "bump" would be absorbed by the tires instead of transferred to the chassis?

Not an off road person but would you really want that wobble-oscillation to carry on that much rock crawling? Bump-react-settle down would seem preferable to me.

 

[MacProCT]

Regarding Changing to a smaller wheel / higher profile tire combo (that some people have done for better ride quality) as a possible solution for the side to side condition: I can't imagine it would help with this. In fact, I would expect that it would potentially make it worse, because there's likely to be more sidewall flex. And I'm not personally fond of the all-terrain tires as a solution. Tires for more off-road purposes are typically noisier. If you don't have off-reading needs, I would think you'd be better with something at the other end of the spectrum: Such as an "ultra high performance all weather tire" which will have a stiffer sidewall combined with great road manners. But you could give Tire Rack a call and tell them your situation and ask for their input. But definitely try the spring inserts first. Could make a big difference. And they're easy to do and easy to remove.

 

[Newtopassport]

Thanks for the input. When IRL settles down a bit, will pursue the springs as a first option. We're not in a place to install ourselves so will have service do it. It will take some talking to replace OEM tires that are not worn yet. And going from a OEM Continental tire to a Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06? (And I think it has to be a slightly different size/ratio tire) That'll be a good argument, especially given that I didn't like Continental's on a previous Gen 1 CRV. Other possibles in the "ultra high performance AW tire" seem to be Michelin Defenders LTX M/S, MIchelin Pilot Sport A/S, Pirelli Scorpion AS Plus 3, or Pirelli Scorpion Zero All Season Plus. I'm not opposed to Continental's. Maybe the previous ones were not really right for the older CRV. We tend to use Discount Tire as across our moves, we've usually been able to find one and their service has been pretty good- for us anyway.

Regarding the springs, since using them for towing is mentioned- just the back or all four wheels? I would imagine in this case all four.

Regarding tire pressure- we'd never go by the door label as it was always close to half psi of new tires on our older cars. Never had a tire dealer tell us to run them that low. I may have found out why, if this is true, because older cars had tires that didn't have that 44psi max in those days. And since we, ahem, tend to keep our cars a long time even after buying them used with four to six years already on them.....