Very nice install! Although, I would consider this slightly above the middle upgrade wise 😉 After seeing yours, I'm looking forward to my next audio upgrade since I just got an Audison AP F8.9. I think my upgrade will fall somewhere around yours cost wise once everything is said and done. I do like your use of the factory sub location. I have debated whether to get a custom enclosure done or just use the loaded sub I already have for now haha
Mid-Level Audio Upgrade (Amp, Speakers, Sub)
As a new Passport owner, the posts here have been super helpful. Most threads in the audio section fall into basic upgrades (speaker replacement) or high-end overhauls (love seeing stevend.17 and ironchef19 posts).
I wanted something in the middle - just enough of an audio boost to be too much at times, know what I mean? So after consulting a shop I trust, ended up going with:
- Factory radio connected to a JL Audio FiX-86 for DSP to create front/rear/sub outputs
- That hooks into a JL Audio XD700/5v2 to power the whole system
- Focal Access 165 YE speakers front and rear
- JL Audio 10Tw1 in a custom box to replace the factory sub in the same location
- Sound dampening in all 4 doors and trunk
- JL Bass knob for quickly adjusting the bass response as needed
(And before the install, I replaced the 3 year old OEM battery with an Interstate MTZ-48/H6 to make sure everything had enough juice.)
Verdict - fantastic. The amp is the size of a Harry Potter novel, but has more than enough juice to power the whole system. And the sub really has some nice kick. The installers (shout out to Safe & Sound, Chantilly VA) found a nice place to tuck it under the back seat on the driver's side. Speakers took about a week to break in. And the bass knob fits perfectly into a blank next to the traction control.
Definitely recommend sound deadening to everyone, makes things nice even when the stereo is off, which is rare. Pics - forgive the animal hair, need to vacuum!
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See you later, factory speakers!
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I wanted something in the middle - just enough of an audio boost to be too much at times, know what I mean? So after consulting a shop I trust, ended up going with:
- Factory radio connected to a JL Audio FiX-86 for DSP to create front/rear/sub outputs
- That hooks into a JL Audio XD700/5v2 to power the whole system
- Focal Access 165 YE speakers front and rear
- JL Audio 10Tw1 in a custom box to replace the factory sub in the same location
- Sound dampening in all 4 doors and trunk
- JL Bass knob for quickly adjusting the bass response as needed
(And before the install, I replaced the 3 year old OEM battery with an Interstate MTZ-48/H6 to make sure everything had enough juice.)
Verdict - fantastic. The amp is the size of a Harry Potter novel, but has more than enough juice to power the whole system. And the sub really has some nice kick. The installers (shout out to Safe & Sound, Chantilly VA) found a nice place to tuck it under the back seat on the driver's side. Speakers took about a week to break in. And the bass knob fits perfectly into a blank next to the traction control.
Definitely recommend sound deadening to everyone, makes things nice even when the stereo is off, which is rare. Pics - forgive the animal hair, need to vacuum!
See you later, factory speakers!
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There are those of us here for sure. I've considered upgrading the system in mine but every time I think about it makes me think about removing the interior to install sound deadening on the floor, doors, etc. Did it previously when I had an Expedition. I still have my amps and 15" woofers which I think would be over kill for the PP. Cranked it for a buddy one day and blew his ball cap off his head. It took a lot of work which I'm not sure I want to do again especially since I wouldn't leave them in if I decided to get rid of it.
Update: while the low-end was good, it wasn't quite there - turning the bass knob up to max on some songs just didn't give the mirror-vibrating response I had with my old JL Audio Stealthbox up front in my Honda Element. Sometimes you just want to irrationally turn it up, you know?
Luckily my shop (shout out again to Safe & Sound, Chantilly VA) obliged with a new box for the same woofer: twice as large (who needs that second small storage compartment?) and now ported instead of sealed. Better response with more boom. Good compromise between the street-rattling systems people are sharing in this thread, and keeping the trunk space for an Ikea haul. This is the way.
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Luckily my shop (shout out again to Safe & Sound, Chantilly VA) obliged with a new box for the same woofer: twice as large (who needs that second small storage compartment?) and now ported instead of sealed. Better response with more boom. Good compromise between the street-rattling systems people are sharing in this thread, and keeping the trunk space for an Ikea haul. This is the way.
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Love your build. You think a 2 ohm sub would have hit harder than the 4 ohm as it was?Update: while the low-end was good, it wasn't quite there - turning the bass knob up to max on some songs just didn't give the mirror-vibrating response I had with my old JL Audio Stealthbox up front in my Honda Element. Sometimes you just want to irrationally turn it up, you know?
Luckily my shop (shout out again to Safe & Sound, Chantilly VA) obliged with a new box for the same woofer: twice as large (who needs that second small storage compartment?) and now ported instead of sealed. Better response with more boom. Good compromise between the street-rattling systems people are sharing in this thread, and keeping the trunk space for an Ikea haul. This is the way.
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I wondered the same thing - the installer convinced me that box design was more important than upgrading power (like to a JL XD1000/5) or lowering to 2 ohm. Below is a reverse pic of the port venting to the rear driver's side. You can definitely spend some $$$ chasing big bass (been there before), but this is plenty for now
Also to help future Google searchers, forgot to include a pic of the Fix-86 location. Didn't realize the factory amp was easily accessible just by popping off the trunk storage tray. Good place to put a DSP if you need to make periodic adjustments.
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