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But your response is a bit short this time on the dozens of trucking business tools you typically pat yourself on the back for having to hook up to your vehicle. Perhaps you should reel it all out again with the usual picture?
I don't understand? What trucking tools are you talking about? A simple meter is what I was discussing. Nothing to do with the trucking industry. The Fluke meter is part of my collection of electrical tools I have been using for decades. The Powerwerx meters are in my personal vehicle.

What is wrong with hooking up a meter? Some members come on this forum griping and complaining when they could have taken simple preventative steps as I have. I'm doing nothing more than what a dealer or repair facility does during routine maintenance.

I'm simply giving options to our community. Please let the member decide what they choose in regards to optional choices.

For those members with lesser skills or ignorant as to the use of simple tools, there is always the option of a 12V socket meter easily found on amazon.

Can someone verify this please.
The data is there in front of you. This is electrical 101. A diagnostic port is only to be used for diagnostics and repair. Nothing else. This is common sense and some vehicles have worse issues than others when using that port for other than its intended purpose. The OBD2 has a bi-directional protocol. All kinds of problems crop up when you mess with a ISO 15765 CAN bus circuit plugging in these stand alone aftermarket gauges.
 

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That is more BS from @ballisticexchris, a simple search for the term "Scan Gauge" on this forum or the Piloteers forum will reveal that many members are using the tool without any issue. It's simply taking readings off the ECU not putting the vehicle in a diagnostic mode or overriding safety features.
As I have done, let him be. Others may take interest. More info is better than not enough info to sort through on one's own.
 

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What does a valve adjustment have to do with the starter and starter relays?
When the valves sink into the seats it can cause a hard start condition. Hondas have the rockers with screw style adjustment. They require more frequent attention than the bucket over shim design. Normal interval to check/adjust them is at timing belt replacement around 60K-75K miles. Honda recommends 105K. I would not wait that long.....

Toyotas with shim style valve trains recommend the same service interval. However, I have always found the valve lash to be in spec even after 300,000 miles (on my moms Camry) and 130,000 miles on both our old ES 300's. To be fair my anecdotal experience might differ from someone who flat foots all the time.
 

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Unless advised other wise by your Honda service writer (or trusted 3rd party mechanic) due to presenting issues, following the recommended service interval of 105k miles for the timing belt and valve adjustment will be just fine.

Just as I have on our other Honda (CR-V).
 

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Unless advised other wise by your Honda service writer (or trusted 3rd party mechanic) due to presenting issues, following the recommended service interval of 105k miles for the timing belt and valve adjustment will be just fine.

Just as I have on our other Honda (CR-V).
I would not feel comfortable waiting over 75K max on an interference engine. I am my own trusted mechanic and have seen first hand what can happen to engines when stretching out the service interval to factory recommendations.

Of course YMMV. However, I'm not one to gamble destroying and dumping unnecessary money into an already depreciating asset I plan on keeping until the wheels fall off. For under 4000.00 in parts (AISIN kit, coolant and OEM tensioner) and less than 4 hours of my time, it's a no brainer.

These Honda engines are super simple to work on and anyone who can read and comprehend a service manual will have no trouble to do this job easily.
 

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Where does one find a service manual for the PP? I have a factory Bentley manual for my BMW 330i, but have not been able to find a comparable one for the PP. Also, what sort of special tools are required to do the belt and valve adjustment etc. on the PP?
I find it odd that a 2002 Ford Explorer can go 250k miles w/o a valve adjustment being necessary, but a modern Honda V6 can't. Does Honda use solid lifters? Thanks for your input.
 

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Where does one find a service manual for the PP? I have a factory Bentley manual for my BMW 330i, but have not been able to find a comparable one for the PP. Also, what sort of special tools are required to do the belt and valve adjustment etc. on the PP?
I find it odd that a 2002 Ford Explorer can go 250k miles w/o a valve adjustment being necessary, but a modern Honda V6 can't. Does Honda use solid lifters? Thanks for your input.
Honda service manuals are now subscription based and the subscription is quite expensive.

 

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Where does one find a service manual for the PP? I have a factory Bentley manual for my BMW 330i, but have not been able to find a comparable one for the PP.

You can purchase the subscription for 24 hours and print up your own at Kinkos or Staples. Unless you are a tech working day in and day out (or have money to waste) it's much cheaper to print the manual. The initial cost is about 100.00 in (25.00 for the subscription and aprox 75.00 for 25lb paper printed and spiral bound. I did mine off my MacOS . I converted the pages I needed from the subscription to temporary PDF files. It was a tedious work around but successful. Not sure if WindowsOS allows it.

Also, what sort of special tools are required to do the belt and valve adjustment etc. on the PP?

Almost all basic hand tools to do a belt replacement and valve adjustment. To make life easier I recommend getting a 19mm deep harmonic balancer socket and a 50mm Crankshaft Crank Pulley Wrench Holder Tool. These 2 tools make it much easier to not only hold the crank pulley but remove the almost always stubborn harmonic balancer bolt. Use caution when removing harmonic bolt. Very easy to snap with an impact. I almost always have to add a little heat to these when removing. When reinstalling put a dab of NeverSeez on all the bolts including water pump. It will make it easier for the next service.

For valves just a set of quality feeler gauges. I use the long Starrett or Mitutoyo tapered leaves (I have both) as these are the most accurate.

Main point, and very important after belt replacement, is to spin the engine manually very slowly at least 2 full camshaft revolutions checking pulley/cam gear marks are lined up and valves are not hitting piston.

While you are in there I also recommend replacing tensioner. If you have a shop do the work insist on it. Hydraulic tensioners are big failure point on any engine. If your tensioner fails the belt will skip and motor can end up bricked.

I find it odd that a 2002 Ford Explorer can go 250k miles w/o a valve adjustment being necessary, but a modern Honda V6 can't. Does Honda use solid lifters? Thanks for your input.
Those older Ford Explorers are amazing vehicles than can go an easy 500,000 miles. I'm pretty sure the Ford Explorers with both 4.0 and 4.6 motors have non adjustable hydraulic valve trains. They are not adjustable. The 3.5 J35Y6 in our engines have a solid design valve train, single camshaft with shaft mounted rocker arms and screw adjusters. It is a very basic and simple design.

FWIW, all you need is torque specs and clearance for these 2 jobs. No need for service manual. Doing a timing belt and valve lash is as simple as it gets. You don't even have a power steering pump in your way. If you can do an oil change then this job is just as simple albeit time consuming. If you have never done it expect about 6 hours labor. A seasoned tech can knock it out in 2 - 3 hours. It takes me about 4 hours labor but all day in garage due to lots of breaks to my old body.
 

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I would not feel comfortable waiting over 75K max on an interference engine. I am my own trusted mechanic and have seen first hand what can happen to engines when stretching out the service interval to factory recommendations.

Of course YMMV. However, I'm not one to gamble destroying and dumping unnecessary money into an already depreciating asset I plan on keeping until the wheels fall off. For under 4000.00 in parts (AISIN kit, coolant and OEM tensioner) and less than 4 hours of my time, it's a no brainer.

These Honda engines are super simple to work on and anyone who can read and comprehend a service manual will have no trouble to do this job easily.
$4000 in parts???
 

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You can purchase the subscription for 24 hours and print up your own at Kinkos or Staples. Unless you are a tech working day in and day out (or have money to waste) it's much cheaper to print the manual. The initial cost is about 100.00 in (25.00 for the subscription and aprox 75.00 for 25lb paper printed and spiral bound. I did mine off my MacOS . I converted the pages I needed from the subscription to temporary PDF files. It was a tedious work around but successful. Not sure if WindowsOS allows it.




Almost all basic hand tools to do a belt replacement and valve adjustment. To make life easier I recommend getting a 19mm deep harmonic balancer socket and a 50mm Crankshaft Crank Pulley Wrench Holder Tool. These 2 tools make it much easier to not only hold the crank pulley but remove the almost always stubborn harmonic balancer bolt. Use caution when removing harmonic bolt. Very easy to snap with an impact. I almost always have to add a little heat to these when removing. When reinstalling put a dab of NeverSeez on all the bolts including water pump. It will make it easier for the next service.

For valves just a set of quality feeler gauges. I use the long Starrett or Mitutoyo tapered leaves (I have both) as these are the most accurate.

Main point, and very important after belt replacement, is to spin the engine manually very slowly at least 2 full camshaft revolutions checking pulley/cam gear marks are lined up and valves are not hitting piston.

While you are in there I also recommend replacing tensioner. If you have a shop do the work insist on it. Hydraulic tensioners are big failure point on any engine. If your tensioner fails the belt will skip and motor can end up bricked.



Those older Ford Explorers are amazing vehicles than can go an easy 500,000 miles. I'm pretty sure the Ford Explorers with both 4.0 and 4.6 motors have non adjustable hydraulic valve trains. They are not adjustable. The 3.5 J35Y6 in our engines have a solid design valve train, single camshaft with shaft mounted rocker arms and screw adjusters. It is a very basic and simple design.

FWIW, all you need is torque specs and clearance for these 2 jobs. No need for service manual. Doing a timing belt and valve lash is as simple as it gets. You don't even have a power steering pump in your way. If you can do an oil change then this job is just as simple albeit time consuming. If you have never done it expect about 6 hours labor. A seasoned tech can knock it out in 2 - 3 hours. It takes me about 4 hours labor but all day in garage due to lots of breaks to my old body.
Thank you for taking the time to send the helpful replies!
 

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Thank you for taking the time to send the helpful replies!
No sweat. And if you just don't want to do it yourself the cost is anywhere from 800.00 -1200.00 parts and labor. Shop labor is anywhere from 100.00 - 150.00 per hour. It's billed as a flat rate. Off the top of my head it's about 3hrs for TB R&R and 1.5hrs for VA. If they do both you can knock off about .5-1 hour.
 

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All very useful information. I used to adjust the valves annually on a 911 I kept for 19 years. I do most of the work on our BMWs and my son's Accord. So I would be comfortable doing the valves on the PP V6. However, after just watching a YouTube video on the PP job, it reminds me of an old saying... When you are young, you have more time than money. When you are older you have more money than time! I'm afraid at 74 I fall into the latter category :cool: But I still do enjoy working on the cars. I pretty much stick to fluid and filter changes along with brakes and plugs. Though my older 330i has a slight head cover gasket leak that has been calling to me!
 

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All very useful information. I used to adjust the valves annually on a 911 I kept for 19 years. I do most of the work on our BMWs and my son's Accord. So I would be comfortable doing the valves on the PP V6. However, after just watching a YouTube video on the PP job, it reminds me of an old saying... When you are young, you have more time than money. When you are older you have more money than time! I'm afraid at 74 I fall into the latter category :cool: But I still do enjoy working on the cars. I pretty much stick to fluid and filter changes along with brakes and plugs. Though my older 330i has a slight head cover gasket leak that has been calling to me!
Good for you for doing so much car-work at that age. I'd be happy to be alive at 50. Currently at mid-30s but lots of bad decisions bound to catch up to me sooner than later.
 

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Good for you for doing so much car-work at that age. I'd be happy to be alive at 50. Currently at mid-50s but lots of bad decisions bound to catch up to me sooner than later.
It happens to the best of us. I push my disabled body to the point of collapse and tears within about 20-30 minutes of any task that requires bending my joints. It really sucks sometimes when you have the brain and skills but your body won't cooperate.

One of my requirements when purchasing this vehicle was the ease of wrenching on it (when compared to others). When I was cross shopping with the Subaru Outback I realized as soon as I opened the hood that the Outback was a big pass.
 
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Got the letter after going to the dealer for the recall software update regarding the Auto-Stop system. Interestingly, now that they have performed the update, auto-start has not activated a single time. Hmmm...
It would not activate for me initially, I would keep getting the "unavailable" message. But later on in the day I drove my Passport again and it started working. Maybe it just needs to be driven a bit to reactivate itself after the update.
 
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