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28 Posts
I saw and liked how REALM mounted a full-size spare tire vertically in his cargo area (post 5).
Cilles and a few others also discussed this topic. I really wanted to have a full size matching spare, because well, that’s normal. The craziness of donut tires must stop! I’ve had enough flats (that couldn’t be repaired) that it’s worth it to have the peace of mind of a normal tire. I bought 18” KMC wheels with 30.5” OD 265/60R18 Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 and laid the fifth down flat for a while and put stuff in the middle of the tire and on top of it and it’s fine, but for giggles, I thought I’d try a vertical option.
So, I took REALM’s idea, but did it with a twist, err bend. I really didn’t want to screw into or bolt through the cargo floor, so I bought a few things at Home Depot: a 36” piece of flat steel stock (pretty sure it’s 1/8” thick - will confirm), some threaded rod (the size of the wheel studs), a lock washer and nut for the rod, some stubby carriage bolts, and a piece of plywood. I made this:
I bent the metal by using a small torch to gently heat it up at the bending areas and then just bent it with my raw manly strength (it wasn’t hard).
I then put a piece of yoga mat down on top of my 4Knines Multi-Function Split Cargo Area Liner and under the plywood base, to keep the tire / stabilizer from sliding during corners / evasive maneuvers. I finished off the “installation” with a rubber tire wedge shoved against the back to hold it even better (from moving during that brisk Passport acceleration 😆). It works. I think I’m into it $23, since I already had a torch, an old yoga mat, and a rubber wheel chock. I like how I now have a tall vertical space between the left rear window/wheelwell and the tire to stash stuff that’s easy to grab from the driver’s side rear passenger door. I can store “shoveables” (coats/hats/blankets) and just reach back there to grab them without opening the rear hatch. I can also put a camp chair in that spot.
Anyway, I lined it all up, used a fine point marker through a bolt hole to put a dot to mark the center of my hole, then drilled it (start really small if using a hand drill, then incrementally work your way up with the bit sizes to the final hole size - its thick steel and a large hole). I’ll post some specifics when I find the receipt and packaging tomorrow.
Obviously, there’s no need for the vertical support to be as tall as I’ve left it, but I didn’t feel like it was worth using a hacksaw on for 5 minutes just to cut off 5 inches. These nuts on the left are just tightened against each other with some blue threadlocker. The nut you undo to remove the tire /wheel that needs a lock washer is on the right side (facing the center of the vehicle). If you don’t use a lock washer, it WILL come loose. You can use a nut after the lock washer to secure it all into place (and keep a wrench in the vehicle) or grab a large wing nut if you can find one and don’t worry about a wrench.
If I had welding skills or a shop with a vise (I literally did all of this in the Home Depot parking lot with some lock pliers and a pair of work gloves), I might go a little heavier-duty with the steel, but it’s definitely working (it’s been in the back like this for 5 months now) and will never break, but it does move around a little. That’s what the rubber wheel chock helps with (immensely). Having a cargo organizer and a stroller in the back all the time do help keep it locked down from sliding when I drive the Passport like I used to drive my Porsche Macan 🫣 Anyway, maybe this will help someone.
Cilles and a few others also discussed this topic. I really wanted to have a full size matching spare, because well, that’s normal. The craziness of donut tires must stop! I’ve had enough flats (that couldn’t be repaired) that it’s worth it to have the peace of mind of a normal tire. I bought 18” KMC wheels with 30.5” OD 265/60R18 Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 and laid the fifth down flat for a while and put stuff in the middle of the tire and on top of it and it’s fine, but for giggles, I thought I’d try a vertical option.
So, I took REALM’s idea, but did it with a twist, err bend. I really didn’t want to screw into or bolt through the cargo floor, so I bought a few things at Home Depot: a 36” piece of flat steel stock (pretty sure it’s 1/8” thick - will confirm), some threaded rod (the size of the wheel studs), a lock washer and nut for the rod, some stubby carriage bolts, and a piece of plywood. I made this:
I bent the metal by using a small torch to gently heat it up at the bending areas and then just bent it with my raw manly strength (it wasn’t hard).
I then put a piece of yoga mat down on top of my 4Knines Multi-Function Split Cargo Area Liner and under the plywood base, to keep the tire / stabilizer from sliding during corners / evasive maneuvers. I finished off the “installation” with a rubber tire wedge shoved against the back to hold it even better (from moving during that brisk Passport acceleration 😆). It works. I think I’m into it $23, since I already had a torch, an old yoga mat, and a rubber wheel chock. I like how I now have a tall vertical space between the left rear window/wheelwell and the tire to stash stuff that’s easy to grab from the driver’s side rear passenger door. I can store “shoveables” (coats/hats/blankets) and just reach back there to grab them without opening the rear hatch. I can also put a camp chair in that spot.
Anyway, I lined it all up, used a fine point marker through a bolt hole to put a dot to mark the center of my hole, then drilled it (start really small if using a hand drill, then incrementally work your way up with the bit sizes to the final hole size - its thick steel and a large hole). I’ll post some specifics when I find the receipt and packaging tomorrow.
Obviously, there’s no need for the vertical support to be as tall as I’ve left it, but I didn’t feel like it was worth using a hacksaw on for 5 minutes just to cut off 5 inches. These nuts on the left are just tightened against each other with some blue threadlocker. The nut you undo to remove the tire /wheel that needs a lock washer is on the right side (facing the center of the vehicle). If you don’t use a lock washer, it WILL come loose. You can use a nut after the lock washer to secure it all into place (and keep a wrench in the vehicle) or grab a large wing nut if you can find one and don’t worry about a wrench.
If I had welding skills or a shop with a vise (I literally did all of this in the Home Depot parking lot with some lock pliers and a pair of work gloves), I might go a little heavier-duty with the steel, but it’s definitely working (it’s been in the back like this for 5 months now) and will never break, but it does move around a little. That’s what the rubber wheel chock helps with (immensely). Having a cargo organizer and a stroller in the back all the time do help keep it locked down from sliding when I drive the Passport like I used to drive my Porsche Macan 🫣 Anyway, maybe this will help someone.