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Discussion Starter #1
Well I took the new passport 3800 miles worked front rotors to the dealer and was told that it’s normal wear and tear and if it was a warranty issue they would not replace them they would only cut them down… Called Honda customer service and was told the same thing that it’s up to the dealer. So looking for suggestions thinking power slot changing them myself...any other suggestions?
 

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Why not just have them turned/resurfaced to get rid of the brake pad build up? Also make sure the lug nuts are all torqued to 94 lbf∙ft (127 N∙m, 13 kgf∙m).
 

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Just replace them. I had a shake and thought the dealer would do something, but like you, I was also turned away. I purchased raybestos performance rotors and glad I did. All issues have disappeared and stopping has vastly improved. BTW @ $108 including shipping from rock auto....
Good luck
 

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I just went through the same ordeal. Make sure to replace both the rotors and the pads at the same time. Two months ago I replaced the rotors with Raybestos ones thinking I just got a bad set installed from the factory, but within the last couple weeks the shimmy was back again. I ordered new Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic pads from TireRack and installed/re-bedded them yesterday, so we'll see how it goes (and yes: the shimmy was gone again after bedding in the new pads). Based on my experience the factory pads are poor quality and leave residue all over the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just replace them. I had a shake and thought the dealer would do something, but like you, I was also turned away. I purchased raybestos performance rotors and glad I did. All issues have disappeared and stopping has vastly improved. BTW @ $108 including shipping from rock auto....
Good luck
I am definitely going to change them. I told honda customer service they should change their maintance schedule for 3000 mile service to include “replace front rotors” as they told me it was normal wear and tear...
 

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I would suggest anyone having brake pulsation to replace the pads if you replace the rotors. The vibration you feel is very unlikely to be due to the rotors actually being warped. It comes from hard stops and keeping heavy pressure on the brake pedal while stopped, which cooks pad material onto the surface of the rotor. This tiny amount of material is enough to make the pedal vibrate under braking, especially at higher speeds. If you look at the rotors you may see an imprint of the pad shape. This is a tell-tale sign you have pad material transfer that's possibly causing vibrations. Sometimes the factory pad material is a bit softer than the aftermarket and is more prone to heat transfer. An aftermarket pad may solve the issue. You can also try re-bedding the brakes, as explained in the quote below.

Here's an example pic of what this looks like:
7443


"Pad material transfer can happen if the pads and rotors are very hot and then the vehicle is stopped before the pads and rotors can cool down a bit. A close inspection of the brake rotor friction surface can usually spot the signs of pad transfer. There may be a clearly defined or a ghosted area that looks like an imprint of the brake pad. Pad material transfer can often (but not always) be eliminated by re-bedding the pads to the rotors. With the brakes fully warmed up, from 60-mph, use the brakes to slow the vehicle in a moderately aggressive manner, down to about 20-mph (no need to “throw the anchor out”, but more aggressive that your normal braking). Accelerate back to 60-mph and repeat. Do this 3 to 4 times, then drive at about 60-mph for a minimum of 1-mile to cool the pads and rotors. Be sure to ONLY perform this procedure in a safe place and a safe manner, with no other traffic. If the issue remains, replace the brake rotors and pads."
- blog.bavauto.com
 
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