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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
DO NOT START nor try to start the engine while either the OEM (07aaa-tz3a100) $300 tranny lock release tool or my homemade $20 contraption is installed.

Photos 1, 2, & 3 are of the 1" x 14" x 3/8" thick steel bar that I bent. I drilled a hole in its end, for the Transmission nipple to slip in to. Another hole was drilled, for a nut & bolt, which allows the Plate in photos 4, 5, & 6 to press downward on, keeping the bent bar in place, over the nipple. The tricky part was getting the nipple's hole right, because it has to be more rectangle-like and its opposite side needs to fit over the nipple's 10mm shoulders. Photo 1 shows a rectangular(ish) hole and the back side of this hole is shown in photo 3, as a 10mm round hole.

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Photos 4, 5, & 6 are of the Plate that slides over the (above) bent bar, while the bent bar is over the transmission nipple.

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2021 Passport Elite
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Looks like you have put a great deal of work and skill into this. Would love to see a video of it in use.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The next photos show the engine bay. If you've installed this contraption as many times as I have, you won't need to remove any of the plastic beauty pieces, from the engine compartment, but to better show what it looks like...

Photo 7 is with all of the plastic beauty pieces in their normal places.

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Photo 8 shows where to grab the 6' long radiator cover, to pull it upward and unsnap it.

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Photo 9 shows my yellow label, which is between two Philips head screws that need to come out.

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Photo 10 is of the Phillips head screws missing.

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Photo 11 shows the Air Plenum removed. Just twist it and pull.

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In photo 11, you can see (in the very center of the photo) a wing nut, which is attached to the battery's tie down 6 inch bar. To the front of that wing nut is a hole that I drilled into the 6 inch bar to better align the plate, from photos 4, 5, & 6.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Photo 12 is a close up of the wing nut, which is attached to the OEM factory threaded tie down bolt, for the battery and the hole that I drilled.
If you look back at photo 6, there is a very pointed bolt. I ground it to a point so that it would slide in to the hole in photo 12 (below) easier.

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So do you leave the plate installed and then just use the bar to engage neutral?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looking back at photo 12, you can see a blurry/shinny transmission release nipple, in the very center of the photo.

Photo 13 (below) is a close up of the transmission release nipple. Notice that it is at 345 degrees.

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Photo 14 shows me holding the bent bar over the nipple.

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Photo 15 shows the bent bar balanced and resting over the nipple. Notice which way the top of the bar is pointing and compare that to the final photo, at the end of the posting.

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Photo 16 shows the bent bar and the plate loosely resting on my hand. I used both hands to complete these steps:
I kept the bent bar over the nipple, as I rotated the plate CCW about 15 degrees, and I slide the plate over the threaded OEM factory battery tie down bolt.

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Photo 17 is the final result and the transmission is in neutral. It did not take much rotation pressure to turn the plate those 15 degrees. About as much force as I would use to torque a spark plug in, at 9 ft/lbs.

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Here's the photo of the screws and their clips, from photo 10 that I forgot to post. The "female" portion, of the clip, is called "Latch engine cover"...91548-tz5-a02 in case you think that it won't pop out, when you remove the air plenum.

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I see said the blind man. So rotating the plate with the bent bar turns and holds the nipple on the transmission. Genius solution. Well done.👍
 

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2020 Honda Elite AWD & 2007 S2000 AP2
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Looks like you really did a great job designing this tool, I bet it took some time to do it. Thanks for posting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I started with a yardstick and a couple of pieces of cardboard.
I'd try a piece of galvanized "chain link fence tension bar", for the bent bar, if I had to do it again, as the transmission nipple turns easily.
 

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Just to be clear. This would only be used in order to move the car onto a flatbed truck to tow in the event of an emergency. I would not think putting the transmission in neutral like this would make the AWD models flat towable
 

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This tool and how it works has me scratching my head.
I haven’t explored anything yet, but this posting interested (and bothered) me.
My question to the OP is why is there a need to clamp the tool bracket to the battery post?
Can't you just turn the key and just leave it in the unlocked position?
And then turn it back into the normal position when needed?
This whole procedure reminds me of turning your water supply on or off at the street with a T- handled tool.
 

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This tool and how it works has me scratching my head.
I haven’t explored anything yet, but this posting interested (and bothered) me.
My question to the OP is why is there a need to clamp the tool bracket to the battery post?
Can't you just turn the key and just leave it in the unlocked position?
And then turn it back into the normal position when needed?
This whole procedure reminds me of turning your water supply on or off at the street with a T- handled tool.
I believe it has to be held in position. Even the Honda tool locks the shaft in position.
 

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After reading this thread, I sure hope I never need to have mine towed. o_O
 

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2019 Elite B.F,2020 Ridgeline
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Correct- it has to be held in position- it has spring like tension on it to return to "locked" position if not held in "neutral" position.
 

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Me too!
Thank you for taking the time to post the photos and narration. What material did you use for the plate?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
NotcherB,,,
Getting flat spots on my tires is not what I was worried about.
Putting the transmission in to neutral will allow the wheels to spin, so I can attach a strap and tow my Passport with another car, without damaging the drivetrain was my goal.

Pshadoa...
The plate is made out of a scrap piece of 1/8" thick aluminum.

1. I cut/drilled out a 3/16" x 1 1/16" slot, for the bent bar to slide in to and labeled it.
2. I drilled a 1/4" hole to slide over the OEM battery tie down's bolt.
3. I drilled a hole, to install a 1/4" nut and bolt, then used my grinder to make it pointed.
4. I cut two ea. 3/8" x 5/8" slots in the side of the plate, so it would fit over the edge of the OEM battery cross bar, as seen in photo 17.

Getting the plate level:
I slid the plate over the bent bar, so that the plate was level with the battery's 6 inch tie down bar. I marked my bent bar (while it was over the nipple). I drilled a 1/4" hole about 3/8" below my mark and installed a nut and bolt, so that the plate is both level and pushing downwards (on my bent bar), when in its final position.

Now you see how I made mine and how it works.

Though, I can see making them and giving them away, my contraption has no value and can't be re-sold like the Honda 07AAA-TZ3A100 tool. It took me 14 months to get photos posted, so don't wait for me to start an assembly line.
 
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