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just like the title says...Anyone tried to install one on the Passport? Looks like it should fit.
 

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I just ordered one for 158. delivered. I looked on their website and it shows no modifications, bolts on in 20 minutes. It is lower, because it comes out below the bumper, but still has plenty of height off ground.
 

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When I did our 2019 Passport EXL I used the Curt 13421 aftermarket hitch which is for the Passport...

Also the trailer wiring I used was Tekonsha HT18809...This is also an exact plug & play fit for the 2019 EXL Passport...

Total cost for all the above was less than $250.00
 

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The hitch bolts right on...No modifications needed...I have a automotive lift in my garage...I'd say about a 30 minute job...Now getting the panels removed for the wiring is much more time consuming job...but anyone with some mechanical knowledge and tools can do it all...
 

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Thanks for the info, mine came yesterday and I just finished mounting it. I’m an old man, and I don’t have a lift. However, I blocked up one side and was able to lift the other side in place and get a bolt started and then got one bolt in the other side and finished mounting it up. If I can do it, anyone can. The dealer quoted me $1100. To install and that did not include the transmission cooler, which I didn’t need. FYI, the dealer told me if I wasn’t towing over 3500 lbs no need for the cooler. Ordered everything from Etrailer including light kit, which I’ll install later for $225.13 including tax and shipping was free. They were great to deal with too!
 

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How about a photo? Also do you have the "kick your foot under the bumper" to open the tailgate? If so does it still work after installing this hitch?
 

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The OEM hitch part numbers for the Pilot and for the Passport are different, so something must be different.
Also, on the etrailer dot com web site, the part numbers don't match either. The Passport accepts Curt #c13421 and Drawtite #756290 compared to the 2018 Pilot that accepts Curt #c13146 and Drawtite #75225

About the trailer harness:
The aftermarket trailer light harness is $34 and takes 45 minutes to install, compared to the OEM harness that takes half a day to install and is $$$.
The etrailer wiring $34 harness install is very, very easy, if you have one of these tools: mirror, otherwise you need to take the side panel off, when you really don't need to.

Just remove the easy accessible plastic parts, which have to come out if you have a flat tire, without removing the spare tire, the sub woofer, nor the driver's side rear side panel.

Here how:
1. Remove all of the things that are in the way of the spare tire, but don't remove the tire nor the sub woofer.
2. Remove the extra large plastic storage tub/s that are usually hidden and are to the rear of the spare tire.
3. There is a cubby storage hole, on the driver's side (approx 6" x 6" x 6'), at the very rear and it needs to come out, so you can slid the mirror in. This cubby just pops out, with some effort and it has to come out. With the above extra large storage tub/s out of the way you can wiggle and remove the cubby.
4. On the Passport, there is only one large white connector that is not plugged in to anything, but it has been taped to the side of another cable. You can see it with the mirror.
5. Either peel or cut the tape and free the connector.
6. The connector has about 16" so slack and can be pushed under the side panel.
7. Screw the etrailer adapter's ground wire to any chassis screw or bolt.
8. Plug the etrailer light adapter in to the Passport large connector, from step 4 above.
9. Put all the plastic back, to hide the spare tire.
10 Open the hood and install the 30 amp double extra large fuse, which comes with the etrailer adapter, in to the fuse holder. The fuse holder's lid is labeled and there is only one place for this extra large fuse to fit. The fuse panel is at the center/top of the firewall and is about 10" x 3".
 

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When I did my 2020 Passport with a Curt with and wiring from E trailer I used a floor jack to hold the hitch. I simply removed the rotating top and took a scrap piece of 2x2 and drilled it and bolted it to the floor jack and slid the hitch on. Jacked it up almost to touching and started the bolts and ran them up with the air gun, and torqued them. I'm 76 so it made it easy for me. The wiring was a PITA, but doable, order the little Greene fasteners so you can replace the ones that break. One more thing with the receiver under bumper you still need a drop hitch but not as much. with the curt you only see the receiver, nothing else. My wiring is inside the storage box under the floor I only get out when needed..
 

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About the trailer harness:
The aftermarket trailer light harness is $34 and takes 45 minutes to install, compared to the OEM harness that takes half a day to install and is $$$.
The etrailer wiring $34 harness install is very, very easy, if you have one of these tools: mirror, otherwise you need to take the side panel off, when you really don't need to.

Just remove the easy accessible plastic parts, which have to come out if you have a flat tire, without removing the spare tire, the sub woofer, nor the driver's side rear side panel.

Here how:
4. On the Passport, there is only one large white connector that is not plugged in to anything, but it has been taped to the side of another cable. You can see it with the mirror.
5. Either peel or cut the tape and free the connector.
The reason Honda OEM wiring kit installation instructions state removal of interior side panel is for EASY access to the secured connector you referenced in (4) of your description. Removal of spare tire?!? Removal of subwoofer?!? That is not in the installation instructions. And it doesn't take "half a day" to install OEM wiring kit, unless you include waxing the interior paint behind the panel. :cool:

Just as some posters here swear by installing the OEM hitch without removing the rear bumper, the wiring harness could likewise be installed without removing the rear interior panel. After all, OEM wiring kit and aftermarket wiring kits access the exact same preinstalled wiring harness, in same location.

On this forum, it appears all service techs, and most DIYers, prefer to remove the panel to make the job easier & attention to detail . . . rather than saving an hour or so of their DIYers-like-to-work-on-their-vehicle time, stuck doing the wiring through a small opening, and hope you later don't hear a rattling noise behind the rear panel because kit was not adequately secured. In fact, the instructions included with the Etrailer wiring kits all specify removing the rear interior panel.

And typical aftermarket kit terminates in 4-wire flat connector that cannot be used with travel trailer or any trailer with electric brakes (OEM kit has 7-blade connector, and includes trailer brake controller connector and fuses). Also aftermarket wiring kit has no exterior rear bumper final location for the pigtail. It terminates inside the cargo area of the Passport, and must be pulled out and pinched between liftgate and bumper when in use, dangling out above the bumper. Aesthetics.
 

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Thanks for the info, mine came yesterday and I just finished mounting it. I’m an old man, and I don’t have a lift. However, I blocked up one side and was able to lift the other side in place and get a bolt started and then got one bolt in the other side and finished mounting it up. If I can do it, anyone can. The dealer quoted me $1100. To install and that did not include the transmission cooler, which I didn’t need. FYI, the dealer told me if I wasn’t towing over 3500 lbs no need for the cooler. Ordered everything from Etrailer including light kit, which I’ll install later for $225.13 including tax and shipping was free. They were great to deal with too!
Forgot to mention, I have an ex-l, it doesn’t have the foot tailgate switch.
 

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Does anyone have any actual installed pictures of the Curt hitch? I saw one picture and it looks like it hangs down a good bit, but then I just watched the U-Haul installation video and it looks like it fits fairly flush right up against the bumper.

Youtube Install-Final product around 1:15


Picture from another thread-

5909
 

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;) scroll through the Q/A and see photo of hitch mounted.
And, It's on sale. $151 is a steal....

I really like the OEM Honda hitch with the new panel and the clean factory look. @$288 it's a bit of a pill to swallow. I'm a vain MF'er though...
 
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;) scroll through the Q/A and see photo of hitch mounted.
And, It's on sale. $151 is a steal....

I really like the OEM Honda hitch with the new panel and the clean factory look. @$288 it's a bit of a pill to swallow. I'm a vain MF'er though...

I'm the same way. Much prefer the way the Honda one looks but that's tough to justify. Plus $166 or so for the wiring harness. All in from E-Trailer is $225 shipped. And disregard about the hanging lower picture that I included-that was a picture from someone that modified a Pilot trailer hitch to fit. It's lower because the Pilot spare tire is on the outside and not in the cargo area like the Passport.

Seems like the way this vehicle is marketed that there would be a factory hitch/towing package option that includes the hitch,harness and transmission cooler. I believe that is already in place for the Ridgeline.
 

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I have the Curt hitch on our 2019 EXL Passport...The Curt hitch is up close to the bumper...From the floor to the bottom of the receiver hitch tube measures 13 1/2"...My 2018 Ridgeline has the factory Honda hitch and it measures 16" from the floor to the bottom of the hitch tube...When towing my 12' utility trailer with the Ridgeline I need a 2" drop ball mount...When towing the same trailer with the Passport I use a straight ball mount...(No Drop)
 

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I have the Curt hitch on our 2019 EXL Passport...The Curt hitch is up close to the bumper...From the floor to the bottom of the receiver hitch tube measures 13 1/2"
OEM hitch - Bottom of receiver opening is exactly 15-5/8 inch above ground (factory wheels/tires, full tank of fuel, empty cargo area, level ground)
Very close to the specs larryd listed for his Ridgeline w/factory hitch in the post above.

5924
 

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I measured to the outside bottom of the receiver tube...looks like 15 1/4"...Which makes the OEM 1 3/4" higher...
Do you run a drop ball mount or a straight one???
 

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The reason Honda OEM wiring kit installation instructions state removal of interior side panel is for EASY access to the secured connector you referenced in (4) of your description. Removal of spare tire?!? Removal of subwoofer?!? That is not in the installation instructions. And it doesn't take "half a day" to install OEM wiring kit, unless you include waxing the interior paint behind the panel. :cool:

Just as some posters here swear by installing the OEM hitch without removing the rear bumper, the wiring harness could likewise be installed without removing the rear interior panel. After all, OEM wiring kit and aftermarket wiring kits access the exact same preinstalled wiring harness, in same location.

On this forum, it appears all service techs, and most DIYers, prefer to remove the panel to make the job easier & attention to detail . . . rather than saving an hour or so of their DIYers-like-to-work-on-their-vehicle time, stuck doing the wiring through a small opening, and hope you later don't hear a rattling noise behind the rear panel because kit was not adequately secured. In fact, the instructions included with the Etrailer wiring kits all specify removing the rear interior panel.

And typical aftermarket kit terminates in 4-wire flat connector that cannot be used with travel trailer or any trailer with electric brakes (OEM kit has 7-blade connector, and includes trailer brake controller connector and fuses). Also aftermarket wiring kit has no exterior rear bumper final location for the pigtail. It terminates inside the cargo area of the Passport, and must be pulled out and pinched between liftgate and bumper when in use, dangling out above the bumper. Aesthetics.
Here's how:
1. Remove all of the things that are in the way of the spare tire, but don't remove the tire nor the sub woofer.
 
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