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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Approaching 15K miles on the Passport and the Maintenance Minder is showing "B16". The "6" is for a "Rear Differential Fluid Change" at 15K mile intervals or 7.5K mile interval for severe conditions. Have not actually performed the fluid change, yet. Based on information found, this is the procedure. Honda service charges $100 to $150?

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Prep for a DIY rear differential fluid change, will need:
  • 2 quarts of Honda's Dual Pump Fluid II (08200-9007)... via Amazon
  • 18mm (90471-PX4-000) and 20mm (94109-20000) washers... 5 pairs via Amazon
  • 3/8" ratchet or 3/8" breaker bar
  • 3/8" socket extension
  • fluid pump for quart bottle
  • oil pan
  • 3/8" torque wrench (35 ft-lb)... as needed
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Fluid fill bolt is at the rear of the differential behind the rear axle frame. Undo the fill bolt first with socket extension and 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar, in the event that there is trouble with the drain bolt. Photo is looking forward from the rear of the vehicle...

InkedIMG_4776_LI.jpg

Fluid drain bolt is on the left side, towards the front of the differential. With oil pan beneath, undo the fill bolt first with 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar. Photo is looking forward from the left side, behind the left rear wheel...

InkedIMG_4778_LI.jpg

Clean drain bolt and replace the washer. Reinstall drain bolt and torque to 35 ft-lb.

Refill differential with new fluid using pump until it starts to overflow. Per the owner's manual, it is just shy of 2 quarts.

Clean fill bolt and replace the washer. Reinstall fill bolt and torque to 35 ft-lb.

Done.
 

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There is an air bleed procedure for the diff fluid change in the Pilot which has the same components. Its easy to do. If I remember correctly you dont fully tighten the fill hole after draining and filling. Start the Pilot and let it run for a minute or two in park. The fluid pumps will circulate and dissipate any air bubbles. Once it runs for a minute, switch off the car, top off the fluid again and tighten fill plug to spec. I am guessing this applies to the Passport also but who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You need get 3 quarts, 2 was not quite enough on the Pilot and Ridgeline to get to the correct level.
Thanks. Fortunately for me, I am doing the diff on my son's CR-V first. The CR-V takes less than 1.5 qt, so I should have extra fluid for the Passport.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Performed the differential fluid change with my son on his CR-V over the weekend. Most difficult part was getting a ratchet attached and applying sufficient leverage to loosen the two plugs on the CR-V, while laying on the ground. Access to the Passport's fill plug and drain plug should be better. Then, you give your hand a workout pumping in the new fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You need get 3 quarts, 2 was not quite enough on the Pilot and Ridgeline to get to the correct level.
Confirmed on the Passport that it is best to have a 3 quarts available, because...
  1. It is not possible to pump the last 100ml of fluid in the bottle.
  2. Spillage due to overflow for attaining the correct fluid level.
Using an extension on the drain bolt is helpful. A large piece of cardboard under the oil catch pan and differential will facilitate clean up. As easy as an engine oil and filter change.
 

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I did my ‘19 today. Simple. I ran the rear wheels on my ramps, removed the fill plug, the drain plug to drain the fluid and pumped 2-1/2 quarts of fluid into the rear end. I replaced both crush gaskets and torqued to 35#. I can’t imagine paying a dealer to do this.
 

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Not sure why the manual calls for 1.92 qts. yet you mention needing 2 1/2 qts. Also the manual calls for DPFS-II fluid. Amazon has DPF-II. Do you know if these are the same?
Thanks!
 

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Yes, I ended up pumping over 2 quarts into my differential. According to this link:


they are the same.
 

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Not sure why the manual calls for 1.92 qts. yet you mention needing 2 1/2 qts.
Thanks!
As Mt.Man and DudeCS posted earlier, pumping the fluid is different than pouring the fluid ...... impossible to pump entire contents of quart container; hoses & pump retain some fluid (pump inefficiency). You may only use a small amount of fluid from the third container, but keep adding fluid until it lightly flows out of fill hole. Retain this unused fluid for use during your next change (second change only requires purchase of 2 quarts since you will have the unused portion you retained to account for that pump inefficiency).
 

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I did my ‘19 today. Simple. I ran the rear wheels on my ramps, removed the fill plug, the drain plug to drain the fluid and pumped 2-1/2 quarts of fluid into the rear end. I replaced both crush gaskets and torqued to 35#. I can’t imagine paying a dealer to do this.
Does the vehicle need to be level (as opposed to the rear being elevated) in order to properly check the level? Would having the front of the vehicle tipped downward affect how much fluid the case will hold before it trickles out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Does the vehicle need to be level (as opposed to the rear being elevated) in order to properly check the level? Would having the front of the vehicle tipped downward affect how much fluid the case will hold before it trickles out?
It would be best to have the vehicle level, because the fill plug is at the rear. If not significantly more fluid, it may not be a problem. If you don't mind being on your back and able, there is ample room under the car for servicing.
 

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Thank you DudeCS. Heading out to do an oil and rear diff fluid change now. Will level the PP. Will also do the drain/refill/warm up, then recheck the level.
 

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I keep reading that it's best to change it at 30k. Thoughts?
 

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My understanding is that you change every 15,000 miles. Never had a vehicle that required this type of service in over 50 years. [Head Scratch]
 

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I keep reading that it's best to change it at 30k. Thoughts?
My understanding is that you change every 15,000 miles. Never had a vehicle that required this type of service in over 50 years. [Head Scratch]
Honda doesn't detail specific mileage or timelines for most of its maintenance items; instead relies on Maintenance Minder. Below are some Recommended service details.

134242


Rear diff is basically a hydraulic-clutch style limited slip, and as the AWD ECU monitors yaw rate, steering angle, g-force, wheel spin, and acceleration, it splits pressure left and right and allows clutches to 'slip' to provide torque-vectoring control. This process builds heat, and excessive heat more quickly wears the compounds in the fluid. The AWD ECU controls and monitors rear diff activity, therefore driving with trailer, heavy loads, off-road low-speed crawling, mountain roads, etc are considered severe service, requiring more frequent fluid changes (7500/15000).

For 'normal' driving, follow Maintenance Minder. Most likely, your first code 6 will appear around 12k-15k, next at 32k-42k miles, and every additional 25k-30k thereafter. Straight mileage-based service recomendations are great for things like tire rotations and air filters . . . otherwise the M.Minder can be your best indicator of maintenance required based on how you drive and fluid wear.
 

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So, the maintenance minder says flush and change differential oil. I changed the oil, drive around fir 10 minutes, drained that oil and added fresh oil. Didn’t change the crush washers till the final change. Wasn’t sure if just changing the oil without flushing it could void the warranty, so I flushed it also. Got the oil from the dealer and they gave me 4 quarts.
 
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