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My main concern is replacing a one piece, fail proof plug, with a valve constructed of several pieces.

Some skid plates would have to be modified.

It makes more sense to install it on a drain hole that is on the side of the pan, like the PP
Aha! There's the rub - even a plug is actually two pieces, because what mates it to the pan? The threads! That's my concern when it comes to these - I agree the sheltered location of the plug on the PP is preferable too, and on motorcycles they're generally above where frames or pipes would hit for the very real concerns you bring up, yourself doing a lot of off roading! No offense taken at the choice not to rock one at all - every relationship looks different between people, so does every relationship with our PPs - as naughty as that sounds 馃ぃ
 

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...even a plug is actually two pieces, because what mates it to the pan? The threads!
Maybe I'm missing your point but I'm sure the threads are cut into an unthreaded bolt blank with a die. It starts and ends as one piece of metal.
 

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Maybe I'm missing your point but I'm sure the threads are cut into an unthreaded bolt blank with a die. It starts and ends as one piece of metal.
Ah, I didn't write clearly enough - I mean the threads on the oil pan itself. Having previously had my oil changes done by shops, I've had many a helicoil installed due to a shop apprentice going at the drain plug with a bit too much gusto, then it's a new oil pan for me...We can obviously be more careful than that with our oil changes, though.
 

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Ah, I didn't write clearly enough - I mean the threads on the oil pan itself. Having previously had my oil changes done by shops, I've had many a helicoil installed due to a shop apprentice going at the drain plug with a bit too much gusto, then it's a new oil pan for me...We can obviously be more careful than that with our oil changes, though.
Gotcha, thanks for clarifying.
 

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Second oil change in the bag. Took the wheel off this time to access the oil filter. Still a pain to change. I know there is a torque spec for the oil filter but how in the world does anyone get their torque wrench to fit when using the oil flter wrench from Honda? Second time using the ziplock bag idea for the filter. Haven't mastered it yet. Sunday or Monday will be replace the rear differential fluid adventure. 15,111 miles so far. Mobil Oil and Honda Filter/Washer. Thanks to everyone for posting on this oil change subject
 

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If you check the filter I believe it will tell you to torque the filter to 10-14 Newton-Meters or 7.5 to 10 Foot Pounds.
 

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I switched oil filter brands, from my tried and true Bosch (D3323) Distance Plus, to K&N Premium ( K&N one inch nut style welded on to filter) (white) HP1010, because of the oil filter tool issue.

I get easy access) to the nut on my K&N oil filter tool with a 1" wrench ($14)
I'm 2 for 2 on the sandwich bag method.

I tighten the filter as far as I can by hand, then I put the wrench on and tighten another 1/8".
 
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If you check the filter I believe it will tell you to torque the filter to 10-14 Newton-Meters or 7.5 to 10 Foot Pounds.
Correct. But there is not enough clearance for me to put my torque wrench on the end of the Oil Filter tool and the frame...unless someone knows of a very small very thin torque wrench...
 

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I switched oil filter brands, from my tried and true Bosch (D3323) Distance Plus, to K&N Premium ( K&N one inch nut style welded on to filter) (white) HP1010, because of the oil filter tool issue.

I get easy access) to the nut on my K&N oil filter tool with a 1" wrench ($14)
I'm 2 for 2 on the sandwich bag method.

I tighten the filter as far as I can by hand, then I put the wrench on and tighten another 1/8".
That is what I ended up doing yesterday but what is the point of the torque spec? My backgound is mechanical engineering (30 years) and there are books/tables which give you the required clearances for tools. I always want to kill the stupid machine designer who builds a machine and does not give the proper clearances for tools. As a machine designer, we had to present and review our designs to the mechanics in the plant. Based on their feedback, sometimes it was back to the drawing board after the review. Made you a better designer. The designer who handled the oil filter design failed as did the leader of the engine design group. With today's solid modeling capaibilities, all of this would have been caught at the design stage. Thanks for the letting me rant.
 

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I switched oil filter brands, from my tried and true Bosch (D3323) Distance Plus, to K&N Premium ( K&N one inch nut style welded on to filter) (white) HP1010, because of the oil filter tool issue.

I get easy access) to the nut on my K&N oil filter tool with a 1" wrench ($14)
I'm 2 for 2 on the sandwich bag method.

I tighten the filter as far as I can by hand, then I put the wrench on and tighten another 1/8".
Nice find Sir.
I've wrenched on all my stuff for many many years. I've had to get real creative getting some fasteners out. Modifying tools and even welding up, one off tools.
All things considered, yes this HP filter is harder to get to than most, shame on Honda, but nevertheless, it's a very easy procedure.
 

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2021 Honda Passport Elite - Tonbo-Giri鉀╋笍
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Been changing oil filters for 50 years and Ive never once needed a torque wrench. 1/2-3/4 turn beyond hand tightening and you're fine.
Same here, I have never had any issue with any spin on can oil filter that I tightened by hand on any engine. Anyone worrying about a torque spec is overthinking it and likely will end up doing more than necessary.

That being said I would agree that the K&N HP-1010 oil filter is a good choice that I have used in the past on my Subaru. Filtration efficiency and longevity is roughly the same as a Fram extra guard oil filter and the K&N is built like a tank as well as having that nice bolt head on the end. Plus if you did want to torque that on just get a one inch Crow's foot to go with your torque wrench.
 

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I don't think that a crow foot will extend past the obstacle, far enough, to get a torque ratchet on the K&N filter, unless you weld a 5" extension on. So, exactness is doable.

I respect torque specs (especially using steel bolts on aluminum) and recognize that I can estimate some differences by hand.
Having access to an oil drain bolt (29 ft/lbs) and a spark plug (9 ft/lbs), I know how lite the feel of an oil filter (10 ft/lbs) will be.

At 3300(ish) miles, (wheel off) I tighten the K&N oil filter as tight as possible by hand, then used my 1" wrench to turn it another 1/4 turn.
At 6800(miles) I had to get my large big mouth grips vise grips out, to crack the filter loose, because my 1" wrench wouldn't stay on the K&N "nut". The K&N "nut" idea is great, just not perfect.

I only turned the filter an extra 1/8 turn this time. I'm at 7100 miles now and no leaks or residue on the filter.
 

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Did first oil change today at 3,901 miles and 30%. I've never had the MM go down so fast except for on an Odyssey that spent most of a winter idling while chauffeuring the kids. Used Mobil 1 OW-20. No ramps necessary and there is more filter access to get your hand in there compared to the Ridgeline.
 

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Did first oil change today at 3,901 miles and 30%. I've never had the MM go down so fast except for on an Odyssey that spent most of a winter idling while chauffeuring the kids. Used Mobil 1 OW-20. No ramps necessary and there is more filter access to get your hand in there compared to the Ridgeline.
Why at 30%?
 

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@Mrevets
Great feedback, I always enjoy hearing work stories.

I'm still on the fence about doing a oil filter relocation. I was thinking about tapping in the current oil filter housing and installing an oil pressure sensor. This way a could get a reading before and after the filter is relocated.
If the new filter location (oil pressure) stays consistent with the old locate, I would think it would be good. Just my initial thought process.

For non mechanical folks this would put them out of their comfort zone . For mechanical minds our gears are always turning to make something better. 馃敡 鈿 馃
 

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Why at 30%?
I've never gone below 30%. But it's a matter of convenience for me and the oil was lower on the stick, typical of a fist oil change interval on a Honda V6. I'd like to avoid fluid changes on a cold garage floor come the winter so if I do it now and then again in the late fall that would be ideal. If this cost an extra $100 over the ownership term that's ok. I have 3 other cars to deal with as well so easier to get it out of the way with the good weather. I'll do the rear diff soon too, I know that on my Ridgeline the code was there when the mileage was in the 4,000's. I've always changed the DW1 fluid or CVT fluid in other Hondas every other year or 20k but with this 9 speed I'm on the fence. I've seen a couple of spill and fill videos but there's not a lot of info out there yet. Hoping that some Pilot folks will be DIY'ing the 9 speed. The good news if fluid cost is way down now around $25 per quart at Bernardi. IIRC it used to be in the mid 40's. I'm really enjoying this PP it's so smooth and quiet all due to the V6 that won't be around forever. Hope hybrids can match.
 

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I asked because I guess to me it's like throwing out a third of a gallon of milk 4 days before the use by date. I see no reason to waste oil or milk. Based on the milage you drove to get to 30% you had about another 1500 miles or so before you hit the 5% mark.

Are you going to do the rear diff twice in a short period of time? The rear diff fluid change at 12K is designed to get all of the mating material out of the rear differential since there is no filter in the rear differential like there is in the engine and transmission. Too soon and you may not clear out all the deposits from the gear mating.

Contrary to what some naysayers like to think, Honda engineers didn't just sit down with a case of beer and SWAG out some numbers and stick them into the MM.

Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against DIYers. When you grow up on a farm darn near every piece of machinery you have is a DIY'er. But when International Harvester says to change the oil every 100 hours, I don't change it at 60 hours just cause. Now I might change it at 98 hours if I know I am going to be in the field all day the next day, But if it is at 90 hours I just might wait until the end of the next day and change it with 102 hours on it. Sometimes too much caution can be just as bad as too little caution.

Plus there is nothing in the Honda Manual or the Honda Owner site that says you can't DIY if you follow the MM. In fact Honda even tells you how to reset the MM once you have done the required maintenance.

There are some people on the Pilot forum that are doing their own ATF changes on their 9 speeds. Most have good results some do not. Patience, the proper tools and the proper setting are all crucial with the ZF9.
 

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If someone has this type of oil funnel they could add this hose.
I put 2 zip ties to foam from an oval to circle and as a stopper to know how far the hose was inserted. The hose is sold by the foot and believe the hose I got is 13".
11917

11918

11919

11921
 

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If someone has this type of oil funnel they could add this hose.
I put 2 zip ties to foam from an oval to circle and as a stopper to know how far the hose was inserted. The hose is sold by the foot and believe the hose I got is 13".
View attachment 11917
View attachment 11918
View attachment 11919
View attachment 11921
If you have kids, you probably have the makings of a very similar funnel. Cut the bottom off of an empty 1 gallon plastic milk container.


Basic meth cooking 101. 馃槅
 
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