As noted in the title, finally got the die-cast running boards and the hood air deflector installed today. I went with the regular profile deflector (08P47-TG7-100) instead of the low-profile one. I hate that they were twice the cost, but I preferred the way they mounted. It was an easy install. I think the hardest part was trying to peel off the backing from the for brackets that mounted directly on the hood.
I would like to say the running boards where as easy, but ran into a problem with the left, middle bracket. One of holes did not line up with the frame and I could not get that bolted started. Luckily, since it was a middle bracket, I was able to complete the installation and drive it with only two brackets on one side for a whole week until I could get around to dealing with the bracket. The solution was to use a round file to enlarge one of the holes on the bracket so that it no longer overlapped the hole in the frame. I think I only had to remove 1/16" of metal which took a minute or so of filing. I then applied two coats of automotive primer and waited 24 hours for it to dry. I was able to install the bracket without having to loosen the other brackets on that side which was nice. Since I had the torque wrench out, I took the opportunity to recheck torque on the other bolts. Everything was still to spec.
Other thoughts on the running board installation...looking at the instructions, I had the impression that I was going to be removing a lot of undercoating. I only ended having to remove about 1/2" at one of the six locations on the frame. I think your mileage will vary here, but you won't know until you get under the truck and dry fit the bracket to check for clearance. You might get lucky and not need to remove any undercoating! Also, since I only had a little bit on a edge to remove, I was able to get by with a plastic putty knife. It's also not necessary to remove every last trace of undercoating. Just enough for the bracket to lay flat against the frame. I also recommend using a 3" socket extension especially if the head of your torque wrench is a little chunky.
I would like to say the running boards where as easy, but ran into a problem with the left, middle bracket. One of holes did not line up with the frame and I could not get that bolted started. Luckily, since it was a middle bracket, I was able to complete the installation and drive it with only two brackets on one side for a whole week until I could get around to dealing with the bracket. The solution was to use a round file to enlarge one of the holes on the bracket so that it no longer overlapped the hole in the frame. I think I only had to remove 1/16" of metal which took a minute or so of filing. I then applied two coats of automotive primer and waited 24 hours for it to dry. I was able to install the bracket without having to loosen the other brackets on that side which was nice. Since I had the torque wrench out, I took the opportunity to recheck torque on the other bolts. Everything was still to spec.
Other thoughts on the running board installation...looking at the instructions, I had the impression that I was going to be removing a lot of undercoating. I only ended having to remove about 1/2" at one of the six locations on the frame. I think your mileage will vary here, but you won't know until you get under the truck and dry fit the bracket to check for clearance. You might get lucky and not need to remove any undercoating! Also, since I only had a little bit on a edge to remove, I was able to get by with a plastic putty knife. It's also not necessary to remove every last trace of undercoating. Just enough for the bracket to lay flat against the frame. I also recommend using a 3" socket extension especially if the head of your torque wrench is a little chunky.
