[HarveyW]

What are you talking about ?? Mine is tight against valance panel and if it hits so does the exhaust. You get in that tight of a place it is no place for Passport The receiver has nothing to do with what hits with a trailer, the height of the ball is the same no matter where the receiver is. OEM just takes a bigger drop.....

This is useless with out something in it.

When you put something like this on it sticks out the back of the vehicle.

When you go over a dip, this can hit the ground if the dip is big/deep enough. The back end of the rack will hit the ground first.

This too sticks out of the back of the vehicle. Possibley not as far, but it sticks out.

When you couple A to B then C become a pivot point.

When you take the combination of A & B over something like this.

A & B pivot at C. If A is lower than B then it pivots down at C. Depending on the angle of the slope the underside of C can and does strike the ground at the bottom o the pivot point C. I know, the in-laws do it with their trailer when they back in or leave and so have I. When B is on a downward angle it also puts more weight on A forcing the back of the towing vehicle down a bit. The amount depends on the weight and angle.

If you install the hitch that is 2" lower than the OEM, then there is greater chance for the pivot point to hit the ground when towing a trailer in such situations.

 

[carpayments4life]

Nipper...
The tips of the sensors are above the area where your foot would reach, but a hitch will block them.
The 6" sensors ,your foot reaches, are farther to the right of the license plate area.

The tailgate sensors are "stick-like" and about 16" long.
They are replaced with sensors (08L91-TGS-100A) that are about 6" long, when a hitch (OEM # 08L92-TGS-100) gets installed. These shorter sensors do not come with the OEM hitch.
A new valance, for the bumper cover, comes with the hitch.
If you need the valance separate it is 08L92-TG7-10030.

Instead of the OEM wiring harness $160, I'm using an e-trailer C 56291, for $37.

 

[Nipper Dog]

Nipper...
The tips of the sensors are above the area where your foot would reach, but a hitch will block them.
The 6" sensors ,your foot reaches, are farther to the right of the license plate area.

The tailgate sensors are "stick-like" and about 16" long.
They are replaced with sensors (08L91-TGS-100A) that are about 6" long, when a hitch (OEM # 08L92-TGS-100) gets installed. These shorter sensors do not come with the OEM hitch.
A new valance, for the bumper cover, comes with the hitch.
If you need the valance separate it is 08L92-TG7-10030.

Instead of the OEM wiring harness $160, I'm using an e-trailer C 56291, for $37.

Thanks Man, you even answered all my follow up questions too! 😁

 

[johara1]

This is useless with out something in it.
View attachment 10939

When you put something like this on it sticks out the back of the vehicle.
View attachment 10941

When you go over a dip, this can hit the ground if the dip is big/deep enough. The back end of the rack will hit the ground first.

This too sticks out of the back of the vehicle. Possibley not as far, but it sticks out.
View attachment 10942

When you couple A to B then C become a pivot point.
View attachment 10943

When you take the combination of A & B over something like this. View attachment 10944

A & B pivot at C. If A is lower than B then it pivots down at C. Depending on the angle of the slope the underside of C can and does strike the ground at the bottom o the pivot point C. I know, the in-laws do it with their trailer when they back in or leave and so have I. When B is on a downward angle it also puts more weight on A forcing the back of the towing vehicle down a bit. The amount depends on the weight and angle.

If you install the hitch that is 2" lower than the OEM, then there is greater chance for the pivot point to hit the ground when towing a trailer in such situations.

Why ?? Where the receiver is has nothing to do with the bottom of the drop is, I only drag a little get on a scale. if I use a a shorter drop the back end drags. This isn't my first rodeo.....

If I was going up that drive I would hit it on an angle, again no big deal .....

 

[HarveyW]

Why ?? Where the receiver is has nothing to do with the bottom of the drop is, I only drag a little get on a scale. if I use a a shorter drop the back end drags. This isn't my first rodeo.....

If I was going up that drive I would hit it on an angle, again no big deal .....

Really, So what you are saying is that if the receiver is 1" from the pavement It wouldn't hit the ground sooner or drag more often since "Where the receiver is has nothing to do with the bottom of the drop is,"?

As for rodeos, there is sitting in the stands and then there is actually going for the ride.

 

[carpayments4life]

$180 gets a U-Haul hitch, without wiring/sensor update.
$270 gets an OEM hitch, without wiring/sensor update.
After spending $35,000 on an SUV, I focused on "looks", for the price difference.

 

[esto70]

After spending $35,000 on an SUV, I focused on "looks", for the price difference.

Subjective, but the OEM hitch with the way it integrates into the lower bumper valance is the best looking of the bunch. After spending almost 40 grand on a vehicle, dropping the extra $100 for the OEM hitch is not going to blow up my budget.

 

[johara1]

I have no issue with what you want to spend... I have issues with what it cost to have a dealer to put it on..... only 6 bolts and I put it on myself for 200.00 .... Now the statement about it dragging is total BS. because the hight difference in the two is around 2" so when I set up for my trailer there will be a two" difference in the drop hitch but the difference from the ground will be the same....

 

[carpayments4life]

I installed my OEM hitch ($249), shorty kick sensor ($77), valence, and e-trailer wiring harness($36), in a few hours.
I discovered the Honda left off one of the right side tail light bolts and didn't tighten one of the others. The robot probably needed lubed that day.

 

[HarveyW]

I installed my OEM hitch ($249), shorty kick sensor ($77), valence, and e-trailer wiring harness($36), in a few hours.
I discovered the Honda left off one of the right side tail light bolts and didn't tighten one of the others. The robot probably needed lubed that day.

Since it was on the drivers side you might this thread: Driver side built better than the Passenger side?

 

[ProdGirl]

I installed my OEM hitch ($249), shorty kick sensor ($77), valence, and e-trailer wiring harness($36), in a few hours.
I discovered the Honda left off one of the right side tail light bolts and didn't tighten one of the others. The robot probably needed lubed that day.

And after all those car payments and time gone by your tail light didn’t fall off! 🤣

 

[home4sale2]

I installed my OEM hitch ($249), shorty kick sensor ($77), valence, and e-trailer wiring harness($36), in a few hours.
I discovered the Honda left off one of the right side tail light bolts and didn't tighten one of the others. The robot probably needed lubed that day.

What did you like about the e-tailer wiring harness, besides the price? Same connectors as OEM or different? Also, is it a 7 pin or 4 pin? Thx.

 

[home4sale2]

I know this thread is almost a year old but if I am to summarize it, $1000 is a good price for Hitch and Wiring and $1500 if you also want a trans cooler? I still don't know why Honda on their website advertises roof rails, cross bar and Hitch install at $1070 (installation included). The dealer said they never heard of it and that it's a mistake. Time for me to call Honda.