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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to attempt to install a 3m clear bra to the hood, and if adventurous to the lower painted front painted bumper portions. Anyone else tackling this?

Amazon has the film for $89 and places charge upwards of $350 for application.
 

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Ok change of plans, clear bra looks like more trouble than it is worth, and my old car had 250 000 km with hwy driving and hardly any blemishes.

Will wait for the touch up paint that the dealer ordered for me along with the manual to repair any dings to the hood...
 

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Hello Glenn, I have an appointment to get my Passport front end, mirrors and door handles down next week, my place uses XPEL Brand. I had them do the front end of my last car and it protected it super well, so I decided to get it done on the Passport as well, since I plan to keep it long time...
I don't think I would try it myself as these guys are like master artists!
http://eliteclearbra.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info, i agree if i get it done I won’t be the one applying it, seems more involved than i thought.
 

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I have XPEL on one vehicle. Watched/helped the installer and it was pretty tricky. It's doable, but I would study up on it before installing it myself.
 

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Ok change of plans, clear bra looks like more trouble than it is worth, and my old car had 250 000 km with hwy driving and hardly any blemishes.

Will wait for the touch up paint that the dealer ordered for me along with the manual to repair any dings to the hood...
Just a heads up, paints and clear coats used today aren't "like they used to be".

I plan on visiting a local installer to discuss adding XPEL to the front end of the Elite.
 

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For reference guys, I was quoted $1,695 from one place and got it for $1,495 for the Front End, all expect the rough black pieces, the entire fenders, the fronts of the mirrors and all four door handles (where fingernails could scratch).

I know it sounds like a lot (and it is) but 5 years from now, when your hood still looks brand new, you will be so happy you got it...! Also, you will NEVER have to wax/polish anywhere the plastic coat is, just use some Detailer Spray and you are good to go..
 

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Someone on a Tesla forum said you need to use a sealant regularly on Xpel PPF - true or not? I’m in the market for covering the front and cargo lip but don’t want the added tasks of doing the sealant regularly. I don’t think 3M needs any more stuff after install.
 

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"Sealant" is the term for a synthetic wax vs "wax" which contains natural carnauba wax. You can treat most automotive films like the clearcoat (top coat of paint). That is, clean it like the rest of your car with shampoo, polish if necessary, wax or sealant. Search the web and there are a few forums dedicated to automotive detailing and care of automotive films.

When using a "wax", keep it off the black plastic. Waxes will leave white residue on the black plastic when dried. A "sealant" does not leave white residue on black plastic. Sealants are longer lasting than waxes, but waxes provide a deeper gloss. Use alcohol or a black vinyl cleaner to remove wax residue on black plastic.
 

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I have XPEL on my PP. The 3M and XPEL are similar products. I would not do it yourself. Find a place with certified installers, that's the secret. My XPEL installation included all the forward facing surfaces and door handle wells for $1100. Very pleased with it.
 

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I have XPEL on my PP. The 3M and XPEL are similar products. I would not do it yourself. Find a place with certified installers, that's the secret. My XPEL installation included all the forward facing surfaces and door handle wells for $1100. Very pleased with it.
I wouldn't attempt to install this myself, so I called up a few installers. In my area Xpel for the full front is ~$2000. That's a tidy penny. Wonder if the 3m installs run cheaper.
 

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"Sealant" is the term for a synthetic wax vs "wax" which contains natural carnauba wax. You can treat most automotive films like the clearcoat (top coat of paint). That is, clean it like the rest of your car with shampoo, polish if necessary, wax or sealant. Search the web and there are a few forums dedicated to automotive detailing and care of automotive films.

When using a "wax", keep it off the black plastic. Waxes will leave white residue on the black plastic when dried. A "sealant" does not leave white residue on black plastic. Sealants are longer lasting than waxes, but waxes provide a deeper gloss. Use alcohol or a black vinyl cleaner to remove wax residue on black plastic.
What I understood from your reply is that any film (3m, Xpel etc.) could use sealant if you want to apply it. And you could just be lazy and/or cheap and not bother doing it on any film either?
 

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What I understood from your reply is that any film (3m, Xpel etc.) could use sealant if you want to apply it. And you could just be lazy and/or cheap and not bother doing it on any film either?
Ha-ha, yes! Care for the film, like the car paint, depends on your level of OCD.

Bug stains and rock chips will affect the clear film, just like it does to the clearcoat and paint. It just adds a layer of protection for the paint. I have it on my other vehicles and it does show signs of wear (6 years and 12 years). There are a few tiny spots that rocks have torn the film. Over time, the corners (if not wrapped underneath) may lift but those can be carefully trimmed with an Exacto blade. On the other hand, I had film on my previous Honda that ran into a deer. The film did nothing to protect from the deer. ;) But, the insurance did cover reinstall of the film.

I did not install a film on the Passport. Most of the frontal area is plastic. You have to weigh the cost for film install vs your OCD or how bad the roads are in your area. Previously in the northeast, sand and gravel were added to the winter road salt (no longer now). Needless to day, it was terrible and worst if you were behind the plows or trucks spreading the road salt mix.
 
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