Accessory Belt Change Interval

60K along with timing belt, pulleys, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, spark plugs and valve check/adjustment. Do yourself a favor and get the "special" extra thick socket to remove harmonic balancer from crank. It's a pretty simple job that takes about 3.5 - 4 hour shop time for mechanic.

HarveyW said:

7 years or 105K, which ever comes first. It has to come off to do the timing belt. It is a rubber based belt, just as the timing belt is. It is a perfect time to replace the serpentine belt.

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Yikes!! That is a lot of miles pushing belts. We all have our comfort zone with an interference motor. My Trailsport is a daily driver. So falls under severe service. To the OP just decide what risk you are willing to take. I have seen belts fail at 70k and last as long as 125k. If it lets go, be prepared for an expensive engine and possible transmission/rear diff replacement. If the valve hits the piston and engine locks up all kinds of bad things happen.

It's a very cheap and easy service. So IMHO, 60K max.

Per service schedule: If you drive regularly in very high temperatures (over110°F,43°C), in very low temperatures (under -20°F, -29°C), replace every 60,000 miles. Also driving daily short distance stop and go puts a vehicle under the severe service.

HarveyW said:

That's Honda's standard replacement cycle for timing belts 105K or 7 years, which ever comes first. This isn't the 1990's any more. 100K for plugs and valve lash check.

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The severe service interval does not agree but do as you wish. 105K belts and 100K for plugs and lash is way too long. The misinformation spread on this forum can result in negative consequences to the owner. Especially for those that plan on keeping their vehicles for 15+ years and 300K plus miles.

Screw style valve adjustment on a J35Y6 and previous versions of this 26 year and running J series motor will start making noise at between 30K and 50K and then the exhaust valves will tighten up and sink into the seats. The intakes, as a rule loosen first and that's where you get the noise. Common symptoms are noise (loose valves) and hard start/rough idle (tight valves).

Remember, manufacturers are not looking out for your best interest after the warranty ends.

You both want to argue about it. I and many other of my colleagues, engineers, ASE certified mechanics and technicians have our way of doing things and you have yours. I will politely ask you both to give this back and forth a break.

I figure to let the OP read what we have suggested and decide what works best for him.

I welcome all to join and comment on the poll I made last month:


This might even help the OP and other members make a educated decision on risk assessment.