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This is the one i bought
That looks great and a nice price too! I'm interested...

Two questions:

Did you add a sub amp or are you running it off the factory amp (output)?

Did you disconnect the ANC (Active Noise Cancellation) Module?

thanks
 
You guys are a bad influence! Lol
Well, I bought the Polk 8" subwoofer. Diving in!. How do I open the subwoofer enclosure?
 

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I was able to remove the Subwoofer enclosure using a 6” extension and a 10 mm socket, there are 2 bolts that can be removed and 2 nuts that have permanent studs. I disconnected the cable, removed another wire loom that was clamped to the enclosure and it came out. The factory subwoofer is attached with 4 x T20 screws. But here is the challenge that I have: The bolt pattern is completely different from the factory subwoofer and the polk subwoofer, and the polk subwoofer has hexagonal screws. Do I just force the hex screws to create a new bolt pattern by perforating the plastic enclosure? Is it going to hold the weight of this heavy subwoofer when it is resting upside down about an inch from the floor of the trunk?
The internal subwoofer connectors were an exact match, no sweat there. I am tempted to buy a different subwoofer, lighter and narrower than the Polk. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I was able to remove the Subwoofer enclosure using a 6” extension and a 10 mm socket, there are 2 bolts that can be removed and 2 nuts that have permanent studs. I disconnected the cable, removed another wire loom that was clamped to the enclosure and it came out. The factory subwoofer is attached with 4 x T20 screws. But here is the challenge that I have: The bolt pattern is completely different from the factory subwoofer and the polk subwoofer, and the polk subwoofer has hexagonal screws. Do I just force the hex screws to create a new bolt pattern by perforating the plastic enclosure? Is it going to hold the weight of this heavy subwoofer when it is resting upside down about an inch from the floor of the trunk?
The internal subwoofer connectors were an exact match, no sweat there. I am tempted to buy a different subwoofer, lighter and narrower than the Polk. Any help would be appreciated.
Yes just put in new screws drill small holes and put in new screws
 
Here are some pictures.
Factory connectors on Polk Sub
7541


Stock enclosure upside down, it has the T20 screws.
7542


Side by side comparison
7544
 

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The Polk looks so mach taller than the factory sub, is there enough depth for it to fit in flush?
 
There is plenty of depth in the factory enclosure - i changed my factory sub out with a Kicker that is deeper than Polk pictured. Now whether the enclosure is large enough for the new sub to provide optimal output is another question.
 
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The enclosure is 4.5" deep to the internal honeycomb pattern plastic, and this sub is about 4" tall. Close fit.
 
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The Polk subwoofer that I ordered is a single voice coil 4 ohm. After reading on this topic, I would like to try a double voice coil subwoofer wired in parallel, to bring that down to 2 ohms. There is a similar DVC model available from Polk. Also thinking about shallow subwoofers to reduce the weight, from Kicker or Pioneer. I still have the trunk disassembled, making sure I get this right.
Some people say that using a 4 ohm speaker on a 2 ohm system is fine, but you need twice more volume to get the same sound. Not what I am after. I will provide an update with the outcome.
 
The Polk subwoofer that I ordered is a single voice coil 4 ohm. After reading on this topic, I would like to try a double voice coil subwoofer wired in parallel, to bring that down to 2 ohms. There is a similar DVC model available from Polk. Also thinking about shallow subwoofers to reduce the weight, from Kicker or Pioneer. I still have the trunk disassembled, making sure I get this right.
Some people say that using a 4 ohm speaker on a 2 ohm system is fine, but you need twice more volume to get the same sound. Not what I am after. I will provide an update with the outcome.

Do you know what the Ohm-rating is for the OEM Sub-woofer?
 
The OEM speaker is labeled 2 x 2 ohm
7563


and this is what I want to achieve

7565
 

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Thanks, my (limited) understanding of speaker ohm loads and power (watts) is that unless you have a high powered amp, you want to stay with the same ohm speakers.

I did not do this for the front/rear door replacements, I went with 4ohms and they sound great (they are rated @ high sensitivity), but I am using more power (watts) to drive them. Typically, going from 2 to 4 ohms would cut your power output in half, meaning if the Amp was putting out 50wpc @ 2ohms, it will produce 25wpc @ 4ohms.

I have not been able to find out how the 540watts / 9 Channels of the Passport (Touring/Elite) are distributed and thus have no idea of how much power is dedicated to the Sub(?) If anyone has a guess or knows, please let us know. My guess is it is probably between 75-125 watts.

Subs are different animals, in custom setups with big or multiple subs, it's not uncommon to have them drive by 200, 500, 1000 watts or more mono amps. The problem with switching to a 4ohm (without adding an external amp) is that if it is being powered by only 75watts and that is cut in half (37.5watts) it won't be enough to adequately drive the new sub and it could sound worse!
 
For sure go with a 2 ohm sub. This is the one I went with - Kicker 8 Inch dual 600 watt CompRT2 2 ohm shallow mount 43CWRT82. It sounds so much better than the factory sub.
 
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