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2020 Honda Passport Ex-L Subwoofer

37K views 88 replies 24 participants last post by  pshadoa 
#1 ·
So I am trying to put a under the seat subwoofer in my 2020 passport Ex-L. Now my question is...is there an adapter you can buy to be able to use the factory wiring harness? I know the elites and above have the subwoofer already installed and I didn't know if the Ex-L had the same wiring or not. Thanks for any help!
 
#2 ·
EX-L also has a stock Subwoofer. In the back right next to the spare tire. Is yours not working? Or Sub volume very low.? Can be adjusted in audio settings. Sub is definitely part of the stock system on the EX-L

Specs from Honda website:
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2019 Honda Passport CHANGE VEHICLE
Vehicle Specifications

SPECS FOR TRIM:
9 Speed Automatic 2WD EX-L 9 Speed Automatic AWD EX-L
PRINT SPECS

Audio & Connectivity
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215-Watt Audio System with 7 Speakers, including Subwoofer
Bluetooth® HandsFreeLink®18
Bluetooth® Streaming Audio18
MP3/Auxiliary Input Jack (Center Console)
Radio Data System (RDS)
Speed-Sensitive Volume Compensation (SVC)
 
#4 ·
I have seen a post or two where the stock sub was swapped out for one with better specs, results were mixed.
However, if you're not feeling your stock sub then something is amiss, it actually hits pretty hard, I have to turn mine down on occasion depending on the song. The 215 Watt stock system may not be an Audiophiles dream set-up but its definitely no slouch.
If you can't make your Sub thump, I would get it checked out at your dealership.
Let us know how things turn out!
 
#6 ·
Hey everyone, I just bought my Passport, I feel like the speakers are a bit low in volume and the subwoofer doesn’t pack a punch. I don’t want to upgrade the speakers but I wanted to buy a subwoofer and amp. I’m not sure what route to take as my budget is only $300 I’m thinking to buy an amp and (1) 12inch sub but run the enclosed subwoofer along with the 12inch with the new amp. Any other suggestions?
 
#7 ·
Welcome to the forum. Search for threads from StevenD and look for sound builds from other users.
Be aware of Active noise cancellation, that uses the subwoofer and mics to cancel out cabin noise.
I would consider powered subwoofer combos, like the infinity basslink. Low profile to hide in the compartment. But at your budget, you may end up with something similar to what this pilot owner put together. Good luck, and post your finding.
Honda pilot stealth sub
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the ideas on the sub replacement! I was thinking the sub was decent but could use a little more low end. This thread spurred me to order a Kicker to replace the factor paper cone sub.
 
#29 ·
You guys are a bad influence! Lol
Well, I bought the Polk 8" subwoofer. Diving in!. How do I open the subwoofer enclosure?
 

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#30 ·
I was able to remove the Subwoofer enclosure using a 6” extension and a 10 mm socket, there are 2 bolts that can be removed and 2 nuts that have permanent studs. I disconnected the cable, removed another wire loom that was clamped to the enclosure and it came out. The factory subwoofer is attached with 4 x T20 screws. But here is the challenge that I have: The bolt pattern is completely different from the factory subwoofer and the polk subwoofer, and the polk subwoofer has hexagonal screws. Do I just force the hex screws to create a new bolt pattern by perforating the plastic enclosure? Is it going to hold the weight of this heavy subwoofer when it is resting upside down about an inch from the floor of the trunk?
The internal subwoofer connectors were an exact match, no sweat there. I am tempted to buy a different subwoofer, lighter and narrower than the Polk. Any help would be appreciated.
 
#31 ·
I was able to remove the Subwoofer enclosure using a 6” extension and a 10 mm socket, there are 2 bolts that can be removed and 2 nuts that have permanent studs. I disconnected the cable, removed another wire loom that was clamped to the enclosure and it came out. The factory subwoofer is attached with 4 x T20 screws. But here is the challenge that I have: The bolt pattern is completely different from the factory subwoofer and the polk subwoofer, and the polk subwoofer has hexagonal screws. Do I just force the hex screws to create a new bolt pattern by perforating the plastic enclosure? Is it going to hold the weight of this heavy subwoofer when it is resting upside down about an inch from the floor of the trunk?
The internal subwoofer connectors were an exact match, no sweat there. I am tempted to buy a different subwoofer, lighter and narrower than the Polk. Any help would be appreciated.
Yes just put in new screws drill small holes and put in new screws
 
#32 ·
Here are some pictures.
Factory connectors on Polk Sub
7541


Stock enclosure upside down, it has the T20 screws.
7542


Side by side comparison
7544
 

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#33 ·
The Polk looks so mach taller than the factory sub, is there enough depth for it to fit in flush?
 
#34 ·
There is plenty of depth in the factory enclosure - i changed my factory sub out with a Kicker that is deeper than Polk pictured. Now whether the enclosure is large enough for the new sub to provide optimal output is another question.
 
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#35 ·
The enclosure is 4.5" deep to the internal honeycomb pattern plastic, and this sub is about 4" tall. Close fit.
 
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#36 ·
The Polk subwoofer that I ordered is a single voice coil 4 ohm. After reading on this topic, I would like to try a double voice coil subwoofer wired in parallel, to bring that down to 2 ohms. There is a similar DVC model available from Polk. Also thinking about shallow subwoofers to reduce the weight, from Kicker or Pioneer. I still have the trunk disassembled, making sure I get this right.
Some people say that using a 4 ohm speaker on a 2 ohm system is fine, but you need twice more volume to get the same sound. Not what I am after. I will provide an update with the outcome.
 
#37 ·
Do you know what the Ohm-rating is for the OEM Sub-woofer?
 
#39 ·
Thanks, my (limited) understanding of speaker ohm loads and power (watts) is that unless you have a high powered amp, you want to stay with the same ohm speakers.

I did not do this for the front/rear door replacements, I went with 4ohms and they sound great (they are rated @ high sensitivity), but I am using more power (watts) to drive them. Typically, going from 2 to 4 ohms would cut your power output in half, meaning if the Amp was putting out 50wpc @ 2ohms, it will produce 25wpc @ 4ohms.

I have not been able to find out how the 540watts / 9 Channels of the Passport (Touring/Elite) are distributed and thus have no idea of how much power is dedicated to the Sub(?) If anyone has a guess or knows, please let us know. My guess is it is probably between 75-125 watts.

Subs are different animals, in custom setups with big or multiple subs, it's not uncommon to have them drive by 200, 500, 1000 watts or more mono amps. The problem with switching to a 4ohm (without adding an external amp) is that if it is being powered by only 75watts and that is cut in half (37.5watts) it won't be enough to adequately drive the new sub and it could sound worse!
 
#41 ·
Can it be powered by the existing Amp?
 
#48 ·
Before drilling, I can already tell that 3 of the 8 screws will not catch the plastic enclosure if I try to use at least one of the existing holes (see allen wrenches). I could try to move the template closer to the edge, but this is too close. The opening of the enclosure is 7.4 inches, and the center to center of the sub woofer screws is 7.6 inches.
I think I am going to pull the plug on this project, and go back to the drawing board.
7599
 
#49 ·
Before drilling, I can already tell that 3 of the 8 screws will not catch the plastic enclosure if I try to use at least one of the existing holes (see allen wrenches). I could try to move the template closer to the edge, but this is too close. The opening of the enclosure is 7.4 inches, and the center to center of the sub woofer screws is 7.6 inches.
I think I am going to pull the plug on this project, and go back to the drawing board.
I had the same issue I couldn't use any of the factory holes or it would not have sealed. I just centered it around the opening as best I could and it worked out.
 
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#50 ·
I agree with you, it can be done If it is centered correctly with the right hardware. You have to avoid the factory holes and some structural posts. This is outside of my comfort zone.
I called my local dealer, and ordered the Elite/Touring OEM subwoofer, along with rear door speakers.
($195, $39, $39) This will be my last attempt at slightly improving the sound before going the aftermarket route, I hope it works.
wow, trial and error.
 
#51 ·
The Elite/Touring subwoofer is the same as the EX-L, only that the EX-L is using a single coil with a 2 wire connector and the Elite/Touring uses both coils with a 4 wire connection.
7617

Yes, I wasted $195 to find this out the hard way. At least I have a spare enclosure, maybe I can drill it now without being afraid of breaking it.
 
#52 ·
Good news! I was able to install the kicker subwoofer, wired in 2 ohms and it works. I still need to bolt everything down in the trunk, and I only played a couple of songs, so alot more tuning is required, but first impressions are very good. Here is picture before the test run.
7621
 
#54 ·
Slightly better bass, but nothing impressive. Before I had distortion at 22 volume, now I can go up to 25. (So a 10%gain). The door speakers give out before the subwoofer, but the engineer in me hesitates to push it too hard with the stock amp and the thin cables. A skilled installer may be able to add an aftermarket amp and use the 2 coils in our stock subwoofer, but if you are already spending that amount of cash, might as well go for a new subwoofer and amp combo. I looked at the self powered options that mount to the spare tire. Or a full box with like a others have done here.
Please keep in mind the differences between the ex-l / sport and the touring / elite. Door insulation or door speaker upgrades may have a more significant effect than just changing out the sub.
 
#55 ·
This is what I used on the EX-L, a 4 ohm subwoofer, but I bougth extra speaker cable to wire it in parallel to work as a 2 ohm.
The mounting screws were not included.

 
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